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B230+T5 3k rpm shake

I figured I would give this a try simply for fitment.

50820588873_5b3930cc23.jpg


It fits so perhaps I could try switching back to a different slip yoke to see if it has any effect. With my BFSY installed I didn't notice any difference.

50820588478_f0fca7581b.jpg


50821332916_7f225aec07.jpg


Perhaps it may help others, PN below.

50820588688_c2e814fd7b.jpg
 
I figured I would give this a try simply for fitment.

50820588873_5b3930cc23.jpg


It fits so perhaps I could try switching back to a different slip yoke to see if it has any effect. With my BFSY installed I didn't notice any difference.

50820588478_f0fca7581b.jpg


50821332916_7f225aec07.jpg


Perhaps it may help others, PN below.

50820588688_c2e814fd7b.jpg

To refresh my memory, do you still have a vibration with the big slip yoke installed?

You did not notice a difference by adding a damper to the setup with the slip yoke installed?
 
I actually have one of the NVH weights from an aluminum M46, gonna see about putting that on, see what happens. Gotta get the car running first, so maybe this fall. lol
 
To refresh my memory, do you still have a vibration with the big slip yoke installed?

You did not notice a difference by adding a damper to the setup with the slip yoke installed?

For me, acceleration vibes and coast down droan is gone with the BFSL. Adding the weight didn't make a noticeable difference.

I was mainly curious to see if this would fit and perhaps try it out without the BFSL once the weather clears up here.
 
When I put one of those tailshaft counterweights on earlier this year it narrowed the RPM window the vibes were present in, but wasn't a full solution.

With 2 piece driveshaft and V6 slip yoke FYI
 
Anyone know how a T5 trans sound behind a Volvo T5?

I've got pretty terrible driveshaft angles (IPD torque rods, soon to be replaced with BNE) and it sounds better behind my whiteblock then my redblock, but the vibration is terrible. Building a driveshaft now that's the correct length, the yoshifab adapter is too short to fully seat the slip yoke with my motor/ transmission placement.

Ranger dampener looks promising, although with my transmission cross member built the way is it the current one bairly fits. Unless I missed it I don't think I saw measurements here?
 
I've got pretty terrible driveshaft angles (IPD torque rods, soon to be replaced with BNE) and it sounds better behind my whiteblock then my redblock, but the vibration is terrible. Building a driveshaft now that's the correct length, the yoshifab adapter is too short to fully seat the slip yoke with my motor/ transmission placement.

Ranger dampener looks promising, although with my transmission cross member built the way is it the current one bairly fits. Unless I missed it I don't think I saw measurements here?

No measurements on my end. I am using the Josh's cross member which is adjustable in 3 directions.
 
Swapped in a 47" Coleman Racing 3" aluminum HDC driveshaft with the Ranger yoke today. Had the entire assembly balanced at NW Drivelines. No gear noise on downshift, no 3K vibration, I think I can live with this...
 
Google "driveline working angles"

Watch some youtube videos on how to make the necessary measurements on your driveline components to avoid vibrations.

I have taken propshaft and NVH classes and really enjoy getting better at it.


You gotta MEASURE THE WORKING ANGLE OF THE U-JOINTS, then they should be within 1 degree of each other.


angle.jpg


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Watch some youtube videos on how to make the necessary measurements on your driveline components to avoid vibrations.

Yeah, a must really. I used the Tremec Phone App to check things and was in spec.
 
I'm going to NW drivelines later this week to get my stock front driveshaft modified and my Ranger yoke installed with u joint. I plan on using a modified front shaft with the stock carrier bearing and the stock rear driveshaft. Will I need to remove my stock rear shaft so they can balance the whole unit or do they just need to balance the front driveshaft if I'm using the stock rear shaft? I just measure from the tip of the yoke when moved 3/4-1inch outward to the center of the carrier bearing correct? I only want to get one driveshaft and do it right, with no vibrations the first time.
 
I'm going to NW drivelines later this week to get my stock front driveshaft modified and my Ranger yoke installed with u joint. I plan on using a modified front shaft with the stock carrier bearing and the stock rear driveshaft. Will I need to remove my stock rear shaft so they can balance the whole unit or do they just need to balance the front driveshaft if I'm using the stock rear shaft? I just measure from the tip of the yoke when moved 3/4-1inch outward to the center of the carrier bearing correct? I only want to get one driveshaft and do it right, with no vibrations the first time.
I would take the whole thing but my driveshaft shop didn't have right adapter to hook up to the Volvo end and only balanced the front half.
 
They will want the whole driveshaft.

Also, I would swap that carrier bearing out for the big spicer one that's been talked about around here. It will provide a LOT more stability since you're running 2 slip yokes. VB242 posted about it a while back, I went that route on my 140 as well, SO much more stable than the stock setup, comparably priced, just requires about 5 minutes to trim the corners to be round.
 
Watch some youtube videos on how to make the necessary measurements on your driveline components to avoid vibrations.

I have taken propshaft and NVH classes and really enjoy getting better at it.


You gotta MEASURE THE WORKING ANGLE OF THE U-JOINTS, then they should be within 1 degree of each other.

gonna get your scope out to figure those angles out? I think everybody has already been through that a few times.
 
Scope FTW

Actually, I can use the Picoscope, an accelerometer mounted to the driver seat rail, and pico NVH software connected to the DLC to diagnose driveline and engine vibrations. You enter tire size, rear axle ratio, engine cylinders and it gets a RPM and vehicle speed data from the DLC.

Go for a drive and the software shows you the different vibration frequencies and the order of the vibration. First order, second order, etc. It also does the math and charts whether it's an engine, tire or propshaft vibration.

I got the scope hooked up right now for parasitic battery drain testing.
 
Actually, I can use the Picoscope, an accelerometer mounted to the driver seat rail, and pico NVH software connected to the DLC to diagnose driveline and engine vibrations. You enter tire size, rear axle ratio, engine cylinders and it gets a RPM and vehicle speed data from the DLC.

Go for a drive and the software shows you the different vibration frequencies and the order of the vibration. First order, second order, etc. It also does the math and charts whether it's an engine, tire or propshaft vibration.

I got the scope hooked up right now for parasitic battery drain testing.

honestly a hilarious image to me, someone getting into a 40 year old ****box with all this instrumentation. "mmm yes see here, the problem is this is an economy car from 1975"
 
Actually, I can use the Picoscope, an accelerometer mounted to the driver seat rail, and pico NVH software connected to the DLC to diagnose driveline and engine vibrations. You enter tire size, rear axle ratio, engine cylinders and it gets a RPM and vehicle speed data from the DLC.

Go for a drive and the software shows you the different vibration frequencies and the order of the vibration. First order, second order, etc. It also does the math and charts whether it's an engine, tire or propshaft vibration.

I got the scope hooked up right now for parasitic battery drain testing.

All in favor to vote ZVOLV as the T5 whisperer say yea.
 
I'm not quite familiar with a 240 carrier setup, mine will be in a 740. I could be wrong but I don't think I'll even need to modify make it round? The OE 740 mount looks very similar. If I go this route I'll have to return my stock support to IPD . . . for the second time:lol:
They will want the whole driveshaft.

Also, I would swap that carrier bearing out for the big spicer one that's been talked about around here. It will provide a LOT more stability since you're running 2 slip yokes. VB242 posted about it a while back, I went that route on my 140 as well, SO much more stable than the stock setup, comparably priced, just requires about 5 minutes to trim the corners to be round.
 
I'm not quite familiar with a 240 carrier setup, mine will be in a 740. I could be wrong but I don't think I'll even need to modify make it round? The OE 740 mount looks very similar. If I go this route I'll have to return my stock support to IPD . . . for the second time:lol:

Yoshifab sells a poly filled 740 bearing mount, and by that I mean he fills the voids with melted poly which hardens. It's an aftermarket URO mount, seems a lot stiffer than stock but I have no experience with it.
 
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