B230 into a 960

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Oh good god...what poor sob stuck with that yesterday's luxo-barge, high security keyed, electrical disaster, rare parts and worse and took the time to stuff an engine in it?

940se or 940 with 960 interior panels and sound deadening.
Can trip over no miles 960 parts cars dead for a dollar.
Or get a 960 that isn't a lemon, 94-95ish, probably a solid axle 94 wagon with best latest tbelt for free with shot head for a dollar, change a head, thrash it, and sell it before it hoses you.

745T+ said:

The dash doesn't swap. In the 960 the firewall member doubles as the air duct. If you look at the defroster vents in a 1988+ 760 or any 960 you'll see what I mean.

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So you are agreeing with me. Anything is possible, it's just so much effort before the venture becomes ridiculous.

2manyturbos said:

The engine bay wiring on a 95 and newer 960 is completely different from any 940. The entire engine harness plugs into the engine bay fuse box. The ECU and transmission connectors are also completely different. You would have one heck of a lot of wiring to do to swap in a 4 cylinder LH 2.4 power plant.

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I realize that. I meant more if the interior part of the harness from the engine bay fusebox to the ECU connectors was easily separated and replaced with a 940SE(a 960 with a redblock for all intents and purposes) harness.

I think a 2.3 or 2.5 16vT would be plenty of power for a 960 to have a bit of fun with. Curb weight is ~3500 lbs with an auto trans. Probably a good bit less with a manual conversion and a few other things like different seats.

2manyturbos said:

Turbo the 960 engine like Peter did. The 6 cylinder breathes so much better than the 4 cylinder. They run smooth as glass. A turbocharged 2.9 is going to smoke any 4 cylinder you can fit in the engine bay.

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That's another possibility. Harder to pull off keeping it semi-stock looking in California for Smog. Would have to be a 1995 if I want to go aftermarket EMS since Smog would otherwise expect OBD-II functionality. I wonder how hard it would be to tune the factory Motronic in the later cars for a turbo application.

Buy a 940SE

miguel.760ti said:

Buy a 940SE

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Not the same refinement/looks/features as the later 95-98 960/V90 and no IRS for the wagons, which would be exclusively what the conversion would take place on. I've driven a 740, a 940, 940SE and 95+ 960 wagons and the later 960 chasis/interior is much better than the earlier cars. Just needs a better engine/trans.

Pete's car was a steal for ~10Kish or whatever for a 960T6.

It looked very clean, but had an SS header and air/water IC. It was deliberately a 95 to be OBD1. -T and N/A manifold every other year for smog? Sucks.

Or ref it as a 99 S80 T6 engine transplant or whatever? Make sure all the doo-dads are accounted for?

I like the idea; please let me know how

I like the idea. I have a 92 960 with a cracked block, and the tranny burns the fluid and shifts incorrectly. I can still drive it. I just have to add about a pint of coolant every other week. I would very much like to put in a 240 b230f with it's aw70 tranny into the car. Such a tough and easy engine to work on. I know the car will not have much for speed and acceleration, but I rarely get to go more than 50 anyways because I live in the city. Most every city I've been to has slow stop and go traffic. And otherwise I could take the slow lanes as there is always somebody driving slow besides me.

I love the interior and the noise insulated aspects of the 960. The body is in perfect condition. The car was super well made in my opinion. I don't want to spend a lot of money on something that isn't made very well, like most new affordable cars. And the 850 with it's fwd and 5 cylinder seems like a costly ordeal with timely maintenance and repairs.

If you do a swap please provide some notes. Detail is appreciated, but anything just telling how it went for you is cool too. I am going to park my 960 soon and wait for an old 240 to come along.

"well made" ahahahahahahahaha...960...ahahahahahahahahahaha
Quiet and cozy, yes.

Just go find a non-pourous block in a parts car for free.99 that is healthy (or JB weld yours bwahahahahahahahaha), rebuild the head, update the timing belt to the latest type and that's about as good as it gets and will "last" ok N/A.

1993 240s are pretty quiet without all the electrical BS. Slam 960 together as above mentioned, beat the ever loving crap out of it while it still is running nice and looking nice and sell it to a sucker with a worn out whiteblock heap bwahahahahahaha. Rig it together, mask all issues, and change your phone number.

Actually, in fairness, if you get one with an OK motor, update the tbelt, maintain it completely religiously, and don't let the trans get too hot or dare run the tbelt/water pump over the interval, it will generally last and work with what they came with really. Trans cooler and the above pretty much fixes a decent one if it is worth the effort. Still less time than an adaptation.

Save up for 1992+ 240 in perfect shape.

If the water pump isn't leaking should I still replace it within the recommended intervals? I am curious to know if the flow rate decreases. I am disappointed with the engine and tranny in the 960, I only meant that the body and interior are nice. Thanks for the tips on the engine block, wild that they had problems all the way to 99, that is a lot of years of weak blocks. So I accept even a 97 s90 would have a weak block, I missed a deal on one of those recently, it looked like new; now I don't mind missing that deal so much. I'll keep an eye out for a 1992 or later 240,740, or 940.

Water pump can **** up and snap he tbelt. Some make it 2 tbelts worth in miles.
Given its a long i6 and the early generation tbelt interval is 20k and snaps at 25 or something utterly ludicrous, your water pump might make it 4 tbelts worth

Just get the tightest non porous engine you can or grind yours out and weld but you'd need an oven and to take it out of the car disassbled for a proper repair no doubt....parts car for free probably easier, that part is sure easy with a 960...if someone is far from the scrap shim they might pay you to haul it off with a running engine and bum tranny. It's been known to happen...

960 was way more reliable than the older 700/900 models. Over a 100K, I put far less money into my '92 960 than any of the 240, 740, 760's I owned. AND it didn't rust like all the older bodies. Changing the t/belt every year or so was a piece of cake, considering how easy a job it is, nothing to complain about.

Putting a redblock in a 960 sounds like a lot of work for little benefit. If you put in a B230FT, the ABS module is in the way of the airbox, the battery has to be moved and the wiring harness will be a PITA to swap out. Can it be done? Sure, but that doesn't make it a good idea.

Go buy an 89 760 turbo and swap the front bumper. They already have the right firewall and dash. Only thing that would be difficult would be swapping to 960 doors because they might not have the same wiring plug (I haven't checked).

It's called a 940se. Do the whiteblock punt. Slap jy whiteblock engine in it. Sell. Buy 940se.

Obviously youse guise haven't gotten to do heater cores, climate control everything, many relays, many a fried trans, stupid short tbelt, jammed ignition lock, coil packs and harnesses, driveline rebuild often.

960s are often pristine rich old people cars. Give them some thrashing and years of neglect/cheapskates and everything is a very slippery expensive slope.

945ti said:

Give them some thrashing and years of neglect/cheapskates and everything is a very slipperexpensive slope.

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And..... That's exactly what inspecting a car prior to purchase is for. "Years of neglect" is pretty easy to ascertain. It's not rocket science to figure out whether the car in question is in overall good enough condition to be considered for upgrading ( which would be +T or T6, not rebook swap).

The block porosity issue was isolated to very early 1992-93 blocks. I have yet to see a B6304 with a leaking block.