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Door Window glass separated from regulator

TestPoint

Active member
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Location
Ellijay
I have been trying to get the window glass back firmly in the top of the regulator. Pushed it down into the channel about as hard as I thought the regulator could stand. Goes in about half way but there is enough friction on the weather stripping that the glass rides in to pull it out again.

Thought about painting a little liquid soap in the weather stripping channel to reduce friction or perhaps something else(?).

Suggestions appreciated.
 
If the metal channel is separated from the glass you will need to replace the glass or reattach the glass to the Channel with something like silicone. Make sure you attach the channel in the correct position on the glass.
 
Yes, the glass has separated from the rubber gasket lined regulator channel. I can only get the glass about half way back into the channel.

Thinking about removing the glass from the door and moving the regulator channel to the top to check if the gasket has been turned down or there is some other reason the glass won't go back in.

I often spend a lot of time sneaking up on a solution.
 
Halp! I once again need the help of TB non-performance people. I'm out of my element with anything not race car related with a 240. PO somehow deformed the window track seals so much that the heat gun won't even save them.... and this has now caused my window to break free from the regulator.

What's the TB approved adhesive goop for attaching the window to the regulator channel?
Also, who carries front 244 window track molding/seals? I searched noob, but everyone just wants to sell me scrapers... I don't need no scrapers.
 
The window guides need to come from a cool weather / coastal car at this point unless you want to try to figure out the ill fitting guide from that Australian station wagon's rear window which is / was supposedly still available new.

The window glass is simply pressed into the door lift rail with a piece / strip of rubber sheeting.

s-l225.jpg


I used some EDPM pond liner on a 142 but it was a bit thin so I had to squeeze the lift rail a little in the vise to get a good fit.

Perhaps a thicker thorn proof bicycle inner tube would provide the right thickness material IDK?
 
I think I glued the window back in my winterbeater with windscreen glue or body sealer (polyurethane anyways). Has worked well for the last 4 years, but probably not the way to go with a car that's not a rusted out POS.
 
The window guides need to come from a cool weather / coastal car at this point unless you want to try to figure out the ill fitting guide from that Australian station wagon's rear window which is / was supposedly still available new.

The window glass is simply pressed into the door lift rail with a piece / strip of rubber sheeting.

I used some EDPM pond liner on a 142 but it was a bit thin so I had to squeeze the lift rail a little in the vise to get a good fit.

Perhaps a thicker thorn proof bicycle inner tube would provide the right thickness material IDK?
Good to know. I'll pull the lift rail out and give it a gentle squeeze in the vice to tighten it up. There's definitely no rubber in the rail, so I'll cobble something up to get me by.

It ain't TB cheap but the correct filler strip is available from Volvo.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/volvo-sash-channel-seal-1268231?c=cT0xMjEzOTIw

The guide channel is shown as available but there's no stock in Sweden so it may be discontinued.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/volvo-guide-channel-3526387

A million thanks! I'm fine with that price if it means my window doesn't fall out and actually seals up! Hopefully they're both in stock somewhere!
 
Do not use silicone to keep the glass in place in the regulator. Silicone is not an adhesive. It will pull out and nothing else will stick after that. Use 3M Window Weld windshield urethane.
 
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