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Stu Spencers 245

Ahh, technology at the height of kludging the shortcomings (and voodoo wizardry) of k-jet. Good luck!

I don't know... Too me, if you look at the grand design and the reasoning, it makes sense. I do believe he was hampered by the knock sensor being too sensitive. Had Knock Sense been available at the time it would've been a different story.

The second owner was part of the problem too. Not trying to knock him, but he never really learned the car. He even told me in an email that he doesn't know anything about K-Jet. He also mentioned letting shops work on it. Who knows what they did!

Anyway, he's part of the problem because he had no clue when things needed attention. So off to the shop it goes where those guys have no clue either. When the car is older then some of the guys working on it and K-Jet sounds like a molded plastic toy too them, you know it's not going to turn out well.

Personally, I'm not a fan of the Saab APC stuff. The MSD 6AL OTOH might be kind of cool. After some of the other stuff is worked out, I may revisit it. :)
 
Haven't posted much but I suppose it's time to say some more about the car.

Essentially it's on blocks and the car is well into being torn apart somewhat. After driving it a bit and having a good deal of fun it was time to address some issues.

1) Front rotors: They are warped. Removed the fronts and will soon be buying a new set. Most likely from our boy Ben Kaplan

2) Rack and pinion steering boots. Both are torn.

3) There was a good bit of leaking / leakage so the next thing on my list is a bit of cleaning.

4) Oil lines to the remote filter. Leaking! Need rebuilding. The routing needs a little rethinking as well.

5) The rear ride height is too low and affects the handling in fast sweepers. This is the first 240 I've driven where the front end doesn't always feel planted. Rear adjustable spring perches are the answer. Once again our boy Ben is who I'll buy from. I suspect raising the rear ride height a little will have another positive affect on handling. That being that it may promote more gradual rotation from the rear.

6) Rear axle / trailing arm bushings in 240's suck! I'll soon be removing the trailing arms to be boxed at a local shop so it's time for an upgrade. Triangles Unlimited has some phucking awesome units: http://www.kaplhenke.com/collections/240/products/240-rear-axle-spherical-bearings

7) 50 Trim T04E in an AGP housing (Thanx Tryingbe!)

8) There are a crap load of other things that need doing or are just going to be done. Timing belt, tensioner, hg, crank, cam, and aux shaft gaskets, rear seal, etc....

9) Two speed fan controller. The one that's in there now sucks and runs after the car is off as well.

10) The biggest and last issue to deal with is the tranny: it was noisy and getting noisier. Not sure if it's actually an internal issue or something else.
 
I haven't updated this thread much at all so why not since a lot of work has been getting done on the car.

The front calipers were in need of replacement or rebuild. I opted to rebuild.

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Old Turbonetics Super 60 on right. New T3/T40B with Cossie hotside on left.
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The Cossie hotside is so much better then the Ford 5 Bolt.
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You can prolly tell it has a V band welded onto it.

I'll post more later since I have to get out of the house and run some errands.
 
Ahhhh I want to know how that t3/t04b works on your engine. I can't decide between that and a td05-16g.

This (http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/index.php) is the site that I like to use to get a general idea of how a turbo would work with a setup and it's particulars. I hope the link still works.

My only concern with this engine is surge on spool up. For the power number I want and how fast I think this thing will spool up I need to be careful I don't end up on the wrong side of the surge line. I do plan on using a two stage controller (as pictured on the first page) so I can control this by using an RPM switch.

We'll see. ;-)
 
I'll check it out from an actual computer. I'm afraid the .50 trim with .63 hotside is gonna be laggy on a stockish motor with just an RSI stage 2 cam.
 
So what else have we done?

The car has a remote filter with braided steel lines running back and forth. Turns out it was
one of them was an oil leak source due to poor hose management. On top of that, we found that the lines were just clamped on.

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So new lines with the intent to use AN stuff meant....

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There was as mentioned, numerous oil leaks.

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That cleaned up well.

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The MVP gear had a lot of surface rust on it. This is it taken apart.

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Clean.

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Kevlar belts are sexy.

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One last pic....

These are 2 of the wheels I'm putting on. 18x8 with 234/40's. Testing fitting the rears this weekend.

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I have 35mm rear spacers which are no doubt mad overkill. I'll mount, measure, and decide how much I'm going to need reduce them by.
 
Test fit the wheels today and yesterday (as well as working on some other things). I have a set of 25mm front and 35mm rear spacers while the wheels are 18x8 and et38. For now I put a 25 on one side and a 35 on the other. The 35mm side looks awesome, but no amount of fender rolling on it is going to be enough. It looks like it's time to go more drastic.

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Continuing on the theme of working with what I have as opposed to buying every new 53xii, the 6BTM is going back in.

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It has a lot of features that'll come in handy and it's pretty much already wired to run in the car. The only addition I'll make is the below.

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The ignition box current has a 6K rev limit module in it, but I'd like to run to 7K. :oogle:
 
So work has slowed a little. While waiting on the Kaphlenke spring perches i have given some thought to a couple of things. Buying a 1st gen Forester has also thrown some distraction into life as well.

One thing that happened is that once the trailing arms came out I couldn't find the Yoshi boxing plates i bought. But after some thought, do I really want to? I am also concerned at how difficult it may be to get those bushings in after seeing a Bamse episode where they ultim
ately had to use some gnarly hydraulic press to get in.

All that said, I do hope to get cutting on the rear fender wells this weekend and finish painting the valve cover so I can get engine zipped up.
 
Wells cut. Now it's time to roll what's left and seal the edges.

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It looks phucking awesome!

Now if Ben can get some parts out too me, I can put this thing on the ground and take another look.
 
I think I'm in the doldrums of this effort. Waiting on parts is the worst. Banging away at fender wells on cold concrete floors does the soul no good. At least one side is done. I'll jack the rear axle back up this evening and check clearance but I'm already pretty positive I'm going to have to adjust the panhard rod. Thank God for being adjustable on the car!!!!!

Trying to keep things exciting and moving along in many different areas in some Gant-chart-esque manner, there are now numerous things undone but real close to being done. :lol: Kind of like how I clean house. :lol:

That said, perhaps I'll stay in the warm for a couple of days and finish painting and wet sanding some bits. I suspect that getting the calipers back on, snail hanging off the side of the lump, and the front of the motor zipped up will make me feel like I've made some progress.
 
Well.... K-Jet fuel enrichment is challenged and UT-CIS hasn't lived up to the promise it's shown so Microsquirt will be used as a supplemental fuel controller. K-Jet will remain (for a bit longer) with the MSD-6 BTM handling ignition duties.
 
why a microsquirt over a MS3?

Cheaper and all I need to use it as a extra injector controller. It also provides a point of entry for learning MS. I have a 7 series with an engine, turbo, trans, and other bits ready to go once I'm done with the wagon. I want it to be a full MS3 build.

Another reason I'm waiting is because I want a can bus setup for that car and I'm hoping buy the time I jump into the 7, CAN BUS will have a matured a little for MS.
 
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We have clearance! 235's on 18x8.5's. That's an inch from the bump stops with no rubbing so I think we're good.
 
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