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Double D

Wiper motor: Get an SWF unit (Nahnst?rt band on motor housing). Can swap brown and green wires for faster intermittent mode without having it turn into a 1/2 second delay, like what happens with the newer Electrolux motors.

-J

My wipers don't "park" on the cowl when switched off. Ideas?

Clean 242 by the way!
 
Headlamps: 4x6 harness is wired differently than 5.75" round and 7" round. Same thing happens if E-code 4x6's are installed without repinning the harness plugs or using the adapters.

Wiper motor: Get an SWF unit (Nahnst?rt band on motor housing). Can swap brown and green wires for faster intermittent mode without having it turn into a 1/2 second delay, like what happens with the newer Electrolux motors.

-J

I was hoping you would chime in. I was sure you had experience with the lights. What all do I have to do to get them to work right?

I have a small stack of spare wiper motors, so that will be the easiest repair on the list.
 
Something got in my head and I decided now was the time to tackle the suspension. It already has IPD sways, now I'm adding IPD springs, Bilstein TC, new rubber bushings everywhere except the trailing arms (those will come later), strut reinforcement plates, and later model vented brakes.

20180827_101028 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr

20180827_104523 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr

I'm also tracking down an oil leak, brake fluid leak, and coolant leak. While I wait for parts to come back from the powder coater I started looking into the leaks. First thing I found was a line that may have been attacked by the mice that got to this car while it was in storage. It runs from the fuel tank to the charcoal canister, so I'll need to find a replacement.

20180906_165716 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr

The brake fluid seems to be leaking from the hard lines that run to the rear of the car, just a couple inches back from the distribution block. I'll need to find a replacement for that too. The coolant seems to be from the hard heater hose that runs back from the water pump, but I need to look again to be sure. Lastly the oil is likely the front crank seal, thankfully I have spares on hand. I tore into it tonight, but I'm going to try to add some parts to my powder order.

20180906_213214 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr
 
Life has been busy and I'm dealing with constantly being exhausted, so progress has been slow. I have a couple hours each day to work on the car before I head off to my job. Each one of these pics is the progress I made each day. I have a few wiring things to tidy up and I'll be done in the engine bay. Even after new brake lines I still have a brake fluid leak, so I suspect the junction block. The leak is right below it, but I don't see any fluid anywhere. I have to replace the under axle exhaust pipe, then I should be done and driving.

242-4 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr
242-3 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr
242-1 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr
242 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr
 
First time in 9 months the car is out of the garage!

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/64471650@N03/48082930552/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190617_103746"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48082930552_513b1c1972_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="20190617_103746"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

The IPD springs have it sitting much lower than stock, I think it's actually lower than my 89. I got it out from the garage and spun around to wash it. Everything in the engine bay is coated in oil, it seems like it's been leaking for years.

Short list of to-do:
-Bleed brakes (it has no pedal right now)
-Alignment on Friday
-Oil cap doesn't fit snug
-Top off coolant
-Oil change
-Oil pan gasket appears to be leaking at the front

Long term list:
-New carpet
-Power side mirrors
-Install rear headrests
-Install spoiler
 
Well bled the brakes two more times. First time resulted in still not having any pressure. Second time the brakes are working, but not till the pedal is at the floor and it's still really soft. It might take a third try, but this is getting frustrating.

For the oil pan I'm thinking I should have put rtv on the bottom of the crank cover when I reinstalled it. I have to pull the pulleys next week to get the timing cover on, so I'll do that repair then.
 
Needs more turbo

Not this car, but the pieces are accumulating for the '89.

The car got an alignment today. The 5 minutes to the shop and back were pretty nice, no noise coming from the suspension. I was running around trying to get stuff done thinking Volvos in the Hood was tomorrow, but I have another week.

The brakes still seem too soft to me and it might be due to the passenger side. When I crack the rear caliper it fills my drain tube about an inch, then stops flowing. On the front caliper I can't get any fluid out of the inside (pointed at with the wrench).

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/64471650@N03/48105316377/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190620_220353"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48105316377_c153ba2e6c_c.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="20190620_220353"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

It's drive-able right now, but not as stiff as it was or as stiff as my '89. I replaced all the hard lines, the rubber lines, the front calipers (with used vented units), rotors, and master cylinder.
 
First time in 9 months the car is out of the garage!

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/64471650@N03/48082930552/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190617_103746"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48082930552_513b1c1972_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="20190617_103746"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

The IPD springs have it sitting much lower than stock, I think it's actually lower than my 89. I got it out from the garage and spun around to wash it. Everything in the engine bay is coated in oil, it seems like it's been leaking for years.

Beautiful 242.... good to see it motivating under fossil fuel again.

Hope you have better luck with the IPD sport springs than I did on my DD.....I'm much happier with the B&G progressives/Konis than I ever was with IPD blue sport/Bils HD.

Following your progress ;-)
 
If the rear isn’t bleeding, it might be the rear residual valves sticking. Give them a few light taps with a wrench or hammer.
On the front calipers, make sure the bleeders are clear and not filled with rust.
 
Hope you have better luck with the IPD sport springs than I did on my DD.....I'm much happier with the B&G progressives/Konis than I ever was with IPD blue sport/Bils HD.

The car bounces like crazy right now. If you hit a decent dip it goes up and down three times before it settles flat again. I know I bought the BillyTC used, but they seemed to function properly.

I'm not happy about the idea of getting new shocks and another alignment.
 
The car bounces like crazy right now. If you hit a decent dip it goes up and down three times before it settles flat again. I know I bought the BillyTC used, but they seemed to function properly.

I'm not happy about the idea of getting new shocks and another alignment.
That is the definition of being under damped which means too soft of shocks/struts for the springs, or blown shocks/struts. You could also be hitting the bump stops if you didn't trim them with the lower ride height, as that will have a similar affect. Also, try to determine if just the front or rear is bouncing excessively. I have a set of new Sachs Turbogas rear shocks if the rear shocks are causing your issue. You can try the "bounce test" by just pushing on the fender above the corner you're checking and see what happens.
 
Not this car, but the pieces are accumulating for the '89.

The car got an alignment today. The 5 minutes to the shop and back were pretty nice, no noise coming from the suspension. I was running around trying to get stuff done thinking Volvos in the Hood was tomorrow, but I have another week.

The brakes still seem too soft to me and it might be due to the passenger side. When I crack the rear caliper it fills my drain tube about an inch, then stops flowing. On the front caliper I can't get any fluid out of the inside (pointed at with the wrench).

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/64471650@N03/48105316377/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190620_220353"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48105316377_c153ba2e6c_c.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="20190620_220353"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

It's drive-able right now, but not as stiff as it was or as stiff as my '89. I replaced all the hard lines, the rubber lines, the front calipers (with used vented units), rotors, and master cylinder.

The two halves of your caliper appear to be misaligned. That would cause air to be trapped in it for sure. Is it a rebuilt unit ? I'd take it back.
 
That is the definition of being under damped which means too soft of shocks/struts for the springs, or blown shocks/struts. You could also be hitting the bump stops if you didn't trim them with the lower ride height, as that will have a similar affect. Also, try to determine if just the front or rear is bouncing excessively. I have a set of new Sachs Turbogas rear shocks if the rear shocks are causing your issue. You can try the "bounce test" by just pushing on the fender above the corner you're checking and see what happens.

It'll be back in the garage tomorrow to button up the timing cover, so I'll do the bounce test while it's on level ground. It seems like both front and back bounce, but more so in the front. I don't think it's the stops. I think that would feel more harsh, where this is a trampoline effect.

I have I get real motivated I may swap the HD from the rear of the 89 onto the 83 and see how it does.

The two halves of your caliper appear to be misaligned. That would cause air to be trapped in it for sure. Is it a rebuilt unit ? I'd take it back.

These are used factory units from a parts car. the car was running before it wrecked, but I don't know for how long or where the parts sat.
 
Did you actually drive, and specifically stop, the car before taking it apart? It could have had mushy brakes from badly rebuilt calipers for all you know.
 
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