XxJenoxX
Skin Suit
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2010
- Location
- Pittsburgh, PA
Henlo frenz.
'92 240 wagon w/ABS.
Ok, so I went to do my rear pads only to discover that the driver's side had one with full material and another that was nearly gone. Seized caliper party, woo! I've tried everything to get it unstuck, and it's not going to move freely without a rebuild, at best. It'll move and then just get stuck again. Fortunately, with a sliver of pad in the seized piston location, it doesn't bind up...it just doesn't do a good job. Pulled one off the sedan...torn boot, but it moves very nicely. Temporary solution, at least.
However, the line will not come off the existing caliper. No way, no how, without screwing it up so bad that I can't guarantee a good seal to the replacement. Tried flare nut wrenches, vise grips...all it does is chew up and round. It DOES come off nice and easy at the junction block. Had it off last night, still no luck freeing the caliper or the line. Stupidly, I did not expect this to be such a pain in my ass, so I cut the replacement from the sedan. Should have just removed it at the junction block, too.
I'm looking to buy pre-flared line, so I was hoping you guys could tell me what length/fitting size/flare I need. Euro bubble flare, correct? I was just gonna buy a couple lengths to allow for screwups and bend it myself. It's the driver's side rear short line from the junction block to the caliper.
I'm really down on time (and might not be able to do this myself at all if it rains for the next couple days...no chance of putting my car in the air in a mud driveway, even with wood blocks) so it would be rad if you guys have some specifics that would make this as cheap and simply as possible for me.
Important part highlighted because I know I'm long-winded as f7ck.
'92 240 wagon w/ABS.
Ok, so I went to do my rear pads only to discover that the driver's side had one with full material and another that was nearly gone. Seized caliper party, woo! I've tried everything to get it unstuck, and it's not going to move freely without a rebuild, at best. It'll move and then just get stuck again. Fortunately, with a sliver of pad in the seized piston location, it doesn't bind up...it just doesn't do a good job. Pulled one off the sedan...torn boot, but it moves very nicely. Temporary solution, at least.
However, the line will not come off the existing caliper. No way, no how, without screwing it up so bad that I can't guarantee a good seal to the replacement. Tried flare nut wrenches, vise grips...all it does is chew up and round. It DOES come off nice and easy at the junction block. Had it off last night, still no luck freeing the caliper or the line. Stupidly, I did not expect this to be such a pain in my ass, so I cut the replacement from the sedan. Should have just removed it at the junction block, too.
I'm looking to buy pre-flared line, so I was hoping you guys could tell me what length/fitting size/flare I need. Euro bubble flare, correct? I was just gonna buy a couple lengths to allow for screwups and bend it myself. It's the driver's side rear short line from the junction block to the caliper.
I'm really down on time (and might not be able to do this myself at all if it rains for the next couple days...no chance of putting my car in the air in a mud driveway, even with wood blocks) so it would be rad if you guys have some specifics that would make this as cheap and simply as possible for me.
Important part highlighted because I know I'm long-winded as f7ck.