Brotkasten
Jonas
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2017
- Location
- Wolfsburg, Germany
My Personal +T Guide
Preface:
This is my answer to people asking me lots of question on Instagram and other forums. Please still do your own research. If you know the basics (by reading other threads or books) troubleshooting and modifying stuff is WAY easier. This writeup is going to be about the basic TD04H-13C and B230F. This is my personal research/tips on the +T conversion. Maybe this is useful so someone... I'm thankful for any remarks (lets expand this guys).
MAKE SURE THAT YOU ARE ALREADY PAST STAGE 0
Turbo:
TD04H-13C - make sure it has no cracks in the housings and check for shaft play. You can get a new cartridge/CHRA assembly like I did.
Information on checking a turbo and replacing the cartridge/CHRA assembly:
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineTurbo.html#Turbo_Replacement
Get some new studs (M8x50 for example) and copper nuts while you are at it. There are no gaskets needed.
Manifold:
Try looking for a manifold without cracks (good luck on that) and get the 90+ one. You can just block off the EGR port with a screw plug.
While you're at it: Get some new studs (M8x50) and copper nuts.
Downpipe:
They are dirt cheap so consider getting a new one. Again: Block off the sensor bungs with a screw plug.
Exhaust:
The NA exhaust can stay. You may have adjust it a bit by loosening the clamps to get a good fit.
Injector:
Some options:
- Part #.: 0280155831 @ 329.8 cc per min get really close to the original turbo ones and don't need a resistor pack. I went with them. You can find them in: C70, S60, S70, S80, V70, XC70 and XC90
- Part #.: 0280150804 @ 337 cc per min are the original turbo ones and need a resistor pack.
ECU:
You have to change the ECU. FK and FT ECU are interchangeable. Have a look at this table: http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/ecu.htm
(Left: NA, Right: Turbo)
The EZK can stay.
Intercooler:
You have got a few options here:
Option 1: Top connecting (Pre 1992) Intercooler: It's best to get the original mounting brackets
Option 2: Middle Connecting (After 1992) Intercooler: You can place the intercooler in front of the radiator and fabricate mounting brackets yourself.
Option 1 & 2 also have different piping. Watch out!
Option 3: eBay Intercooler: Just get one with a pipe assortment - you will figure something out. Make sure so isolate the mounting against shock/vibration.
Radiator and coolant hoses:
The turbo radiator is a lot bigger. I've seen people running the small ones tho. You need no new mounting hardware when upgrading to the bigger one (unless you went with intercooler option #1). The hoses for running the big radiator are longer.
(You can see how much bigger the rad is)
In any case: you will need the hose leading to the expansion tank and the one leading to the water pump. They both have a branch leading to the turbo.
[sub](source: https://www.amazon.com/Volvo-turbo-Radiator-Upper-Expansion/dp/B00LZGWDBW)[/sub]
For the electric fan hookup: http://www.240turbo.com/ElectricCoolingFans.html
Oil lines:
Feed: Easiest solution is to use a y-piece on the oil pressure sensor. The thread in the block is M14x1,5. You can use some Dash 4 (AN4) line. The thread on the turbo is M12x1,5. DON'T use a restrictor in line. PTFE tape can be used to seal the threads.
Return: There are a lot of options. The best are welding a bung into the oil pan or the original turbo oil pan.
There are some rules for the return:
- Is has to be bigger than the feed (Dach 10).
- The oil has to be able to fall out of the turbo - the line has to be as vertical as possible.
I found this kit from Kinugawa with feed and return:
http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/volvo740940b230ftturbooilwaterlinekitwmhitd04turbo.aspx
Oil cooler:
I'd recommend getting one. You can just use a kit with a sandwich plate of eBay (the oil filter thread is 3/4"). The stock filter will not clear the engine mounts. You can either use the stock turbo filter relocation adapter or use a smaller filter (OC 606).
For mounting: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=264458
You can also get the stock oil cooler setup of course! (Water oil cooler will need a special water pipe leading to the water pump - a lot of hassle)
MAF:
You can lengthen the harness or relocate the MAF into the cold side of the intercooler (make sure to get a catch can if you do!).
Air filter:
Easiest solution: Use a cone filter.
Original solution: Relocate the battery to the drivers side and use the original air box.
My solution: Use a Honda Civic EK4 air box and keep the battery on the passengers side.
Inspiration:
here are pictures of my B230FB+T's engine bay in different stages:
Version 1.0 - will update this
Preface:
This is my answer to people asking me lots of question on Instagram and other forums. Please still do your own research. If you know the basics (by reading other threads or books) troubleshooting and modifying stuff is WAY easier. This writeup is going to be about the basic TD04H-13C and B230F. This is my personal research/tips on the +T conversion. Maybe this is useful so someone... I'm thankful for any remarks (lets expand this guys).
MAKE SURE THAT YOU ARE ALREADY PAST STAGE 0
Turbo:
TD04H-13C - make sure it has no cracks in the housings and check for shaft play. You can get a new cartridge/CHRA assembly like I did.
Information on checking a turbo and replacing the cartridge/CHRA assembly:
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineTurbo.html#Turbo_Replacement
Get some new studs (M8x50 for example) and copper nuts while you are at it. There are no gaskets needed.
Manifold:
Try looking for a manifold without cracks (good luck on that) and get the 90+ one. You can just block off the EGR port with a screw plug.
While you're at it: Get some new studs (M8x50) and copper nuts.
Downpipe:
They are dirt cheap so consider getting a new one. Again: Block off the sensor bungs with a screw plug.
Exhaust:
The NA exhaust can stay. You may have adjust it a bit by loosening the clamps to get a good fit.
Injector:
Some options:
- Part #.: 0280155831 @ 329.8 cc per min get really close to the original turbo ones and don't need a resistor pack. I went with them. You can find them in: C70, S60, S70, S80, V70, XC70 and XC90
- Part #.: 0280150804 @ 337 cc per min are the original turbo ones and need a resistor pack.
ECU:
You have to change the ECU. FK and FT ECU are interchangeable. Have a look at this table: http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/ecu.htm
(Left: NA, Right: Turbo)
The EZK can stay.
Intercooler:
You have got a few options here:
Option 1: Top connecting (Pre 1992) Intercooler: It's best to get the original mounting brackets
Option 2: Middle Connecting (After 1992) Intercooler: You can place the intercooler in front of the radiator and fabricate mounting brackets yourself.
Option 1 & 2 also have different piping. Watch out!
Option 3: eBay Intercooler: Just get one with a pipe assortment - you will figure something out. Make sure so isolate the mounting against shock/vibration.
Radiator and coolant hoses:
The turbo radiator is a lot bigger. I've seen people running the small ones tho. You need no new mounting hardware when upgrading to the bigger one (unless you went with intercooler option #1). The hoses for running the big radiator are longer.
(You can see how much bigger the rad is)
In any case: you will need the hose leading to the expansion tank and the one leading to the water pump. They both have a branch leading to the turbo.
[sub](source: https://www.amazon.com/Volvo-turbo-Radiator-Upper-Expansion/dp/B00LZGWDBW)[/sub]
For the electric fan hookup: http://www.240turbo.com/ElectricCoolingFans.html
Oil lines:
Feed: Easiest solution is to use a y-piece on the oil pressure sensor. The thread in the block is M14x1,5. You can use some Dash 4 (AN4) line. The thread on the turbo is M12x1,5. DON'T use a restrictor in line. PTFE tape can be used to seal the threads.
Return: There are a lot of options. The best are welding a bung into the oil pan or the original turbo oil pan.
There are some rules for the return:
- Is has to be bigger than the feed (Dach 10).
- The oil has to be able to fall out of the turbo - the line has to be as vertical as possible.
I found this kit from Kinugawa with feed and return:
http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/volvo740940b230ftturbooilwaterlinekitwmhitd04turbo.aspx
Oil cooler:
I'd recommend getting one. You can just use a kit with a sandwich plate of eBay (the oil filter thread is 3/4"). The stock filter will not clear the engine mounts. You can either use the stock turbo filter relocation adapter or use a smaller filter (OC 606).
For mounting: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=264458
You can also get the stock oil cooler setup of course! (Water oil cooler will need a special water pipe leading to the water pump - a lot of hassle)
MAF:
You can lengthen the harness or relocate the MAF into the cold side of the intercooler (make sure to get a catch can if you do!).
Air filter:
Easiest solution: Use a cone filter.
Original solution: Relocate the battery to the drivers side and use the original air box.
My solution: Use a Honda Civic EK4 air box and keep the battery on the passengers side.
Inspiration:
here are pictures of my B230FB+T's engine bay in different stages:
Version 1.0 - will update this
Last edited:
