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122 front suspension reinforcement - what to do

Jack

Jack

junkman
Joined
Jul 7, 2011
Location
The Ass Cheek Of History
Rebuilding the front suspension in 122. Besides reinforcing the upper shock mounts what else can be done, is recommend etc
On crossmember, control arms or anything else

Pictures please

Thanks
Jack
 
Additional welding, preferably MIG or TIG, around the front and rear lower pivot tube support plates and brackets.

We also fabricate plates and weld them on top of the lower pivot tube rear support brackets.
 
Good info guys

Does the upper shock mount (idk how to word this) where the bushings sit get thicker or do you just reinforce everything around there (with plate)

Anyone box arms ?
 
Jack said:
Good info guys

Does the upper shock mount (idk how to word this) where the bushings sit get thicker or do you just reinforce everything around there (with plate)

Anyone box arms ?
Click to expand...

A plate is normally welded onto the top of the front crossmember mount as the spring/shock tower top hole gets worned. Be aware this does create a rust area, best to drill, weld and redrill the hole after the plate is installed so there is no gap between the new plate and top of the crossmember tower.

I’ve not heard or seen any issues with the other suspension components apart from rust and worn bushes. Beefed up and fabricated front wishbones wouldn’t hurt I suppose but certainly not a necessity in the average car.
 
mitch1971 said:
A plate is normally welded onto the top of the front crossmember mount as the spring/shock tower top hole gets worned. Be aware this does create a rust area, best to drill, weld and redrill the hole after the plate is installed so there is no gap between the new plate and top of the crossmember tower.

I’ve not heard or seen any issues with the other suspension components apart from rust and worn bushes. Beefed up and fabricated front wishbones wouldn’t hurt I suppose but certainly not a necessity in the average car.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I put 12/13K miles on this car since march, and I have not driven is much since November. I drive it pretty hard. I already broke the rear suspension link mount

I understand the top plate, I just dont undersand yet if Im also beefing up the place where the shock actually goes through the crossmember

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?p=5696285

first example from link - doesnt look like it adds much to the actual shock point
122_358.jpg


second example - adds a thick plate (I would weld the area around the hole/ also drill hole in the plate to weld it more on the cross member)
37409282184_11fe61835d_b.jpg



mitch1971 said:
I fully welded the seam around the tunnel aperture, maybe stiffen things up a little but mainly sealing it for me in the U.K.; https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/replacing-rusty-bits.65628/page-4

Adding some strengtheners on the front chassis legs like they did on this Escort probably not a bad idea if doing spirited driving: http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=98582
Click to expand...

this is great thanks.
 
mitch1971 said:
Some info for you: https://www.amazoncars.co.uk/images/ul/Suspension.pdf
Click to expand...
great info to know, especially before I do any engine bay work!
dont like the tiny drain hole ideas and junk/moisture getting stuck there,

planetman said:
Additional welding, preferably MIG or TIG, around the front and rear lower pivot tube support plates and brackets.

We also fabricate plates and weld them on top of the lower pivot tube rear support brackets.
Click to expand...
picture of your top plates?

yup I broke my rear pivot tube already
http://turbobricks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5953800&postcount=230
 
122power said:
First one is pretty strong. Its braced up. Second is like over kill and less welding or fab from thick washer.
What do you plan on doing with your 122 anyway?
Click to expand...

that still doesn't answer my question
Im thinking of combination of second one and this one , but instead of bolts? have welds there

shocktowermod.jpg


im entering the baja 10,000
 
Well when you brace up one spot the other end is now weak. The lower a arm hole on the cross member has a brace tab on it already. I cant remember if there is a tube that goes all way thru under there or not but could add one. Or a small flange to displace the load anyway. But now the arms are the weak point so gotta beef those up. Plates or braces of some sort or box them up.
A lemons team made tubular upper a arms so that was pretty rad.
No you cant have pics or links, :-P
Talk to alfavsvolvo about those. If it survives in lemons itll survive on your car.
 
I've also heard of drilling and tapping one size up on the upper A arm bolts, especially if using lots of spacers for aggressive camber. Everything else has been covered above though, not much else I can think of.
 
recovered this recently and will be reinforcing the upper shock mounts on it, along with the other stuff discussed
Thanks for everyone's help

iX4KQMuh.jpg
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someone also did this to the backing plates

cYgrNUth.jpg
 
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