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high impedance injectors in a low impedance setup?

If you just remove them, you'll break the power circuit to the injectors, and the engine won't run. You would need to replace them with wire links from the feed terminal in the middle to each of the other terminals, which supply power to the injectors.
 
Yeah basically there's a 5 pronged connector, the middle prong is the 12v feed and the outer 4 prongs go to the injectors, you want to connect the outer four to the middle one.

VolvoResistorPack2.jpg
 
Angus242164 said:
If you just remove them, you'll break the power circuit to the injectors, and the engine won't run. You would need to replace them with wire links from the feed terminal in the middle to each of the other terminals, which supply power to the injectors.

well that much was a "duh," sorry i worded it wrong :oops:

thanks!
 
Utlimately, low impedance resistors are supposed to be better in terms of how fast they open, yada yada yada..... But I don't think most of us will notice a difference.

For those of us that have Turbo cars from the factory, it would't be worth the effort to get high Z injectors and have to remove the resistors and toy about with the wiring. Especially when there are tons of low Z injectors out there.

For those of us that are doing a +T, the high Z injectors will just drop in and get the job done with no problems. No toying about with resistors and haX0r3d injector wiring.
 
well it's for a friend with a chrysler k car...the factory injectors are really ****ty and have a tendancy to leak. but they flow the same as greentops so i want to put greentops in her car, but her factory injectors are low impedance. so i have to find her resistor and remove it.
 
turboluv said:
well it's for a friend with a chrysler k car...the factory injectors are really ****ty and have a tendancy to leak. but they flow the same as greentops so i want to put greentops in her car, but her factory injectors are low impedance. so i have to find her resistor and remove it.

Greentops as in the same greentops in turbo Volvo 700's and 900's (-357's & -804's)? If that's the case, those allready are low impedance. No need for toying with the resistor(s).
 
really? score! i thought the NA injectors were low and the greentops were high impedance...that makes my life easier haha...

yes, they're out of a 740
 
turboluv said:
really? score! i thought the NA injectors were low and the greentops were high impedance...that makes my life easier haha...

yes, they're out of a 740
heh, other way 'round chief. NA (yellow/ goldtops) = high imp saturated, Turbo 7/9 (greentops)=low imp peak and hold.
If both are low imp and pretty much the same type and the bosch style greenies will fit, then it would be a direct sort of deal.
I have no idea who makes the injectors for k-cars...they looked vaguely denso like from my memory. A bit of o-ring shimming and connector alterations may be necessary.
 
no, the dodge grey topped version were made by chrysler, which is probably why they were leaking.

the greentops were the same exact overall length, used the same spacers and o-rings, and when installed the car started the first try.

another happy customer rolling with at least a few volvo parts...
 
turboluv said:
another happy customer rolling with at least a few volvo parts...

Right on!

Also, there is a chart out there on the net with a ton of part numbers for Bosch and Denso (and others) injectors. It lists basically everything you would need to know about them. I'll try to find a link to it.
 
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