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3D Printed Parts Thread

I have the rear main seal tool if you want to scan mine.

I will have to pay you a visit soon, it won't take me long to model the tool.

If anyone need them I modeled some center caps to use with Aries and a 240. I would have to dig up the files.

uZW7JSWl.jpg
 
Drop in aftermarket gauge cluster for an Amazon. Fits 1/2" indicator lights, 85mm and 52mm gauges. It sticks up farther than the stock cluster so it requires a new dash pad. I'm working on a pattern using a sheet of 1/2" upholstery foam, spray glue, and some marine vinyl.

The little holes in the middle are for some little plastic "staples" I use to hold multi-piece prints together. They do mean cutting off excess and sanding the surface smooth.

My printer refuses to do large ABS prints cleanly and I am waiting on ASA filament. So I am waiting on a printing service to finish up the final prototypes.

I'll upload some files once I confirm the final product works. I've got an earlier iteration in my car right now but the bottom was a few millimeters too narrow to take up the gaps between the metal dash and instrument cluster.

JrXzhMrl.png
 
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I have a set of the clips for securing a rear louvre to a 240. Im trying to find someone locally to reproduce them so I can offer them to people here who may not want to buy them online elsewhere….
 
So if you are printing ASA or ABS filament for heat or UV resistance (say if you want a part to survive in the engine bay or on the dash) it can be tricky because it warps badly. Part of this is heat, the other is bed adhesion.

I've been playing with different configurations and I've finally got some larger pieces to not warp. I got this to work with a PEI sheet for the build surface, 100 celsius bed temp, and a cheap enclosure.

Just thought I'd share.
 
got one bushing out.

sort of in one piece.

Kq55PEDl.jpg


FfA8RJll.jpg


q7aLd81l.jpg


Steel insert.
8S8lNBSl.jpg


23HGBz4l.jpg

nMV6zVvl.jpg



shifter bracket hole
UbgxqaMll.jpg



printing some mockup PETG might get them installed to test this week. made in two parts to avoid supports.

YmF4WgVl.png


pete
 
got one bushing out.

sort of in one piece.

Kq55PEDl.jpg


FfA8RJll.jpg


q7aLd81l.jpg


Steel insert.
8S8lNBSl.jpg


23HGBz4l.jpg

nMV6zVvl.jpg



shifter bracket hole
UbgxqaMll.jpg



printing some mockup PETG might get them installed to test this week. made in two parts to avoid supports.

YmF4WgVl.png


pete

Do you think PETG will have enough temp resistance for this application?
 
it can handle the temp and the oil, not sure how it will effect the shifting... if I use the rigid PETG bushing.

I have TPU, but was feeling to lazy to change it out.

mucked up on my model anyways... tweaked it this morning again.


re printed... seems good when measured to the manky old rubber
real test when i pull the shifter frame and test fit later this afternoon.
29nbjyAl.jpg
 
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I just picked up an ender 3 pro. Looking to work on some things.

Would Blender be recommended for doing the 3d models over, say, Fusion360?



BTW MicroCenter has a coupon you can get 100$ off if you're a new customer. You have to go in person though.

blender I belive is for more sculpting than part design, could work though.

Fusion 360 is pretty good, with the free version.

FreeCAD I have made some things... Fusion was easier, but I think that was just more seat time in fusion vs freecad

Pete
 
Blender can be used for 3d printing pretty well. If you already know how to use Blender or are a 3d artist in general it's probably the best choice since you'll already know how to use it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqDnLg3o9WE


If however you are learning the software from scratch I would recommend using something like Fusion360 or other CAD programs. You'll get better more repeatable results using CAD, and a lot more support is out there.
 
The handle for the rear seatback release on wagons would be a great part to repop. Last time I bought one it was $50 and only in black. Volvo will probably discontinue it in the near future and there are lots of wagons still rolling.
 
So I'm doing stuff.

Those 4 at the top don't fit. Finally got one that does fit, but I need to tweak it one more time for a better fit for both sockets. They are keyed slightly differently, but I'm making the plate where it fits both.

QVsKsd0l.jpg


First fitted part!
yuJtUfvl.jpg


Will fit the 1156 and 1157 sockets I bought from superbrightleds.com. It's where I got the lamps too and they are great!
joXgmExl.jpg
 
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