1993 945 Regina Revival - No start issues

I signed on to help a guy get his mother's wagon running again. Basically a one owner 93 945 NA with 330k on the body. It was severely overheated a couple years ago and he had someone swap the motor and trans as an assembly from another 93 945 Regina car, unknown miles but was a running wrecked car. Not really a cash paying job, but if I can get it to come back to life, I get a decent 93 245 out of the deal. Not running of course....


It's the white one.

He was aware the fuel pump wasn't working and only a couple dash lights come on. First thing, I dug into the fuel issue. I pulled the sending unit and was surprised at the condition of it.




The tank was basically empty. A new HP from rockauto and a pricey foot of in-tank hose later the sending unit is back in. Also swapped the fuel filter.

Fuel pressure is a shade over 40 now with the pump running. Still just spins over, no start.

Next up was checking for spark. Pulled the wire off of cylinder 1 and grounded it. Not the best spark I've seen, but it's there. Checked the spark plugs and they were trashed. Gaps ranged between .050 to .080". New NGK BPR6 plugs installed. Still no joy....

He was leaning towards an electrical issue. The main ground from the battery to the engine was disconnected. I have reconnected it to the PS pump bracket. 2 grounds at the valve cover are attached as well as the 2 at the fuel rail.

The only 2 dash lights that illuminate with the key are the ABS and SRS lights.

I'm not sure if this post is a plea for help yet, but any input is appreciated. I've not lost hope yet.

Can you confirm whether the injectors are firing? I think ZVOLV always shouts about a test lamp at the connector about now. Fuel to the rail isn't enough, you need the injectors to be getting triggered.

Khrrck said:

Can you confirm whether the injectors are firing? I think ZVOLV always shouts about a test lamp at the connector about now. Fuel to the rail isn't enough, you need the injectors to be getting triggered.

Click to expand...

I will test that here in a bit. I did the function test, and the RSR and injectors clicked. Wouldn't hit with some starting fluid... Checked the timing and found the aux shaft and crank were good. Cam gear was off. Readjusted for now. Also checked the pin on the cam gear and it was good.



Haven't tested compression yet, but feels good turning the crank with a ratchet.

Injector pulse confirmed

3wagons said:

Injector pulse confirmed

Click to expand...

Replace CPS...there are two ECMs...Rex gets the CPS signal, but if it is a weak signal, Regina does not receive enough of it.

Been down this rabbit hole once....function test just means Regina can work...but it needs input from Rex.

Also, injectors might not be passing fuel...it can happen when vehicles are stored.

I'll assume timing is OK....

Idiot light issue was a bad connection on the back of the cluster.

Swapped the CPS since I had a known good one. No change. Injectors are probably questionable considering the condition of the rest of the fuel system.

Firing order is correct.

After cranking, have you pulled a (new) plug to see if it's wet or dry? That would help with injector diagnosis. Judging from the state of the pump, injectors are probably fucked as well....

You put that same sender back in? Looks questionable even if it were cleaned, since the harness was overheated so bad...

1) Do you have a timing light? If so, does it flash consistently on crank TDC (or maybe 10deg off?, I don't know what Regina uses during cranking)? Does it also flash consistently on cam ~ TDC?
2) When at TDC #1 with the cam lobes up ("perky") as seen through the oil filler cap, does the distributor rotor point at the alignment mark on the edge of the disti housing?
3) What do you get for ECU/IGN diag codes? 1-1-1 for LH2.4 means that the box is at least getting power.
4) If you have 2 fire extinguishers, and are very careful, you can unbolt the fuel rail, stick baggies over each injector (with twisties to hold them on), and crank it over to collect some samples. On LH2.4 you can unplug the blue +12v wire on the coil for extra safety.

... give me a few minutes and I'll find some pics ...

Does it run on starting fluid, brake cleaner, hairspray, Everclear, or other flammable liquid spritzed into the throttle body?

bobxyz said:

1) Do you have a timing light? If so, does it flash consistently on crank TDC (or maybe 10deg off?, I don't know what Regina uses during cranking)? Does it also flash consistently on cam ~ TDC?
2) When at TDC #1 with the cam lobes up ("perky") as seen through the oil filler cap, does the distributor rotor point at the alignment mark on the edge of the disti housing?
3) What do you get for ECU/IGN diag codes? 1-1-1 for LH2.4 means that the box is at least getting power.
4) If you have 2 fire extinguishers, and are very careful, you can unbolt the fuel rail, stick baggies over each injector (with twisties to hold them on), and crank it over to collect some samples. On LH2.4 you can unplug the blue +12v wire on the coil for extra safety.

... give me a few minutes and I'll find some pics ...

Click to expand...

1 - fairly consistently at TDC. A few misses but could be my light not picking it up. Consistently on cam as well at the timing mark.

2 - both valves are closed. Hard to tell but rotor isn't dead center on the mark but close.


3 - no codes, 1-1-1

4 - going to give this a shot, but not sure when. Taking the kids to a Lego show today.

ZVOLV said:

Does it run on starting fluid, brake cleaner, hairspray, Everclear, or other flammable liquid spritzed into the throttle body?

Click to expand...

It tries to hit, but won't run off of it. Tried a 10 year old can of starting fluid and brake parts cleaner.

Took some videos, will try to post them.

Khrrck said:

Can you confirm whether the injectors are firing? I think ZVOLV always shouts about a test lamp at the connector about now. Fuel to the rail isn't enough, you need the injectors to be getting triggered.

Click to expand...

Yep.

You gotta take the intake boot off, open the throttle, spray two long shots of spray. It may start. You keep it running bursting more spray directly at the throttle plate. Like this, but keep it running with bursts


"Don't even need a scope":

ZVOLV said:

Yep.

You gotta take the intake boot off, open the throttle, spray two long shots of spray. It may start. You keep it running bursting more spray directly at the throttle plate. Like this, but keep it running with bursts


"Don't even need a scope":

Click to expand...

Tried it just now. Still just tries to hit repeatedly. Did verify plugs were wet.

Got tired of seeing the broken timing cover flopping so went ahead and started the timing belt and tensioner. The original tensioner was seized...

Have everything soaking in the parts washer as well as a good rear cover. Found my missing 240 control arm in the parts washer....Will reconvene later and report back.

Your timing is way off in this pic. Unless that crank pulley has slipped. You want to use the notch on the belt guide, not the crank pulley.

It seems like timing is off in that video too. Backfires, sputter, run...

ZVOLV said:

View attachment 20789
Your timing is way off in this pic. Unless that crank pulley has slipped. You want to use the notch on the belt guide, not the crank pulley.

It seems like timing is off in that video too. Backfires, sputter, run...

Click to expand...

Cam was off. I was able to verify the crank gear notch on the belt guide to the mark on the block. I readjusted the belt to get the cam in spec, but with the broke rear timing cover it was a best guess. Replacing it all. Hopefully I'll be able to finish it up this evening.

I think you got it. The new belt will have timing marks on it and allow you to line things up.

(Threadjack double post with non-Volvo content)

Cylinder 4 misfire. Here was the cause:

3wagons said:

crank gear notch on the belt guide to the mark on the block.

Click to expand...

Dial indicator or a long screwdriver in piston 1 hole, while gently moving crank in both directions, slowly.

Distributor's rotor appears to be in the ballpark location.