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  • Brian and I have E-Mailed back and forth.... I've tried to get him to give it an even-firing 3.2.... He wants to keep it with an odd-firing 2.7. ect ect... Hee-hee..... The PRV six is such fun when force-fed with the right things done to it. Even my N/A 3.2 goes really good for a smooth idling engine that will pass a smog test.
    Hello John

    Yes - Brian - he pm'd me on the X1/9 forum. I told him to PM you after I found out he is a member on here.

    I believe that the V-6 clutch is bigger diameter than that used for the four cylinder......
    This would require redrilling the flywheel for that pressure plate.

    Seems better to purchase a stronger clutch for your flywheel. The pressure plate is plenty big enough... Get one with more clamping force and perhaps a disc that is more aggressive. It's been covered at length on the forum.
    Hi John

    Forgive me if I have you confused with another member - are you the PRV motor dude? :-)

    A Fiat forum member is looking for B27 intake manifold - is that something you may have a lead on?

    I am building up a 92 Eagle Premier 3.0 for installation in a Delorean, similar to Deloreanz's project. I have questions about the following:
    What shimming procedure do you use for the cylinders or there a thread?

    I know that you use different rods. For a 300 to 350 hp application are the original rods sufficient?

    I plan to either turbo or supercharge the car with a G60 Corrado SC, so I will need forged pistons. Can I get the benefit of your experience on this to fill in the form with J&E or do you have an order reference I could use?

    Will the B280E or stock cams be sufficient for my target hp?

    I saw you had a stash of rod bearings. Are you willing to part with a set?

    The Premier motor has the hydraulic cam followers. Should I salvage a set from a B280 when I get the throttle body? What RPM are you going to if you are worrying about valve float?

    Thanks again for your time and information.

    Hi John,
    Any chance you have a stock Y-pipe left over from any of your b280's? Mine has rusted out in several places, so my car sounds rotten and is running pig rich due to too much air hitting the O2 sensor. If you have one, let me know how much you'd want to send it to 49506 in Michigan.

    Thanks and talk to you soon.
    Good morning John,
    I'm about a week away from picking up an 88 780 with b280 engine. The car's been owned by the same man for the past 9 years, has 188K and he's got a very complete service history on the car, along with regular oil changes every 3K.
    I see that you've made stupid amounts of power on your b280. That's not my goal.

    I'm intrigued by the idea you've put forward about putting Eagle/Monaco heads on the b280 for better breathing. Is this a simple bolt-off, bolt-on procedure, or would I need to do some machining/customization to fit? My ideal situation is to bump the HP to right around the 200hp mark. Enough to make it more fun, but not enough to break things.

    And if there's no easy way to gain a few ponies unless I do serious surgery, I'll accept that. You seem like the guy to talk to.

    Many thanks,
    Grand Rapids, MI
    83 244 n/a bone stock
    71 1800e (not yet on the road, but sometime soon)
    and as of next week, 88 780 (black ext / grey/black interior)
    It will be as easy as can be........ I just need to get a 4" U-Bend and flange + V-Band clamp for the exhaust to assemble.

    I'm busy with paying work now so it gets to wait.
    The ick will end up in the air filter housing and intake manifold if you route it into the intake. If you keep the engine oil clean and use synthetic oil you will see much less of the ick!

    Hi John and thanks again for the advice on the crankhouse ventilation!

    Without the mesh, what happens to the "stuff" that should get stuck in it? Where does it go? Should I clean something on certain intervals in order to compensate for the missing mesh?

    Jesper Bergman, Stockholm, Sweden
    Wellllll.......... I'm kind in the market for.......... Complete engine management with both brains, wiring harnesses and sensors.
    Do you have a nice runner?

    Where in the world are you?
    Left side valve cover..... The guy that slides into the top of it.... Pull it out and have a peek at it. It should be nice and clean such that crankcase vapors can easily flow through it. They are often plugged up solid! You may have to dig at getting the wire mesh filter out. Don't be shy.

    Where are you in the world?
    Hi John!

    I was recommended by Buzz to contact you since I have a PRV engine in my 264 -78. I have an oil-leak that I can't seem to stop whatever I do. Now I have gotten the tip that it might be the crankhouse ventilation filter that is blocked which elevates the pressure and makes the oil leak from the the oil tray from under the car. It squeezes out although the gasket is new. Where is the crankhouse ventilation filter? Do you think that that might be the problem. Is it possible to describe where the filter is from looking at this picture?


    Eternally grateful for an answer!

    Jesper Bergman
    Hello Brian........

    How is fuel pressure? A fuel filter is common for failures. Also the 'Fuel relay' is a common failure. As you're already aware; 'False Air' AKA vacuum leaks that let air into (or out of in your turbo car) the intake tract without being measured by the airflow plate make for disaster in how the car runs.

    It is very helpful if you can narrow the issue to ignition, fuel or (*gasp!) plugged exhaust. The catalytic converter is also a common failure; in that they will plug up due to drivability issues (misfire) upstream. If you take the three nuts loose to allow 1/4" at the turbo outlet and redrive it you'll immediately know if you've found blocked exhaust or not.

    Say Hi to Diamond Jim and Kristie for me........ Good folks they are.

    Hey John,
    My friends Jim and Christi Brezeale have told me to talk to you about my Volvo questions since you have amassed a significant knowledge of the car from rallying.
    I have a 1983 242 turbo that cuts out on acceleration. If you let off the throttle it returns to normal idle but holding it down causes the engine to stutter and shake violently. I have replaced the turbo piping and tried 3 different intercoolers, swapped out the fuel distributor (kjet) and the ecu with spares, and replaced the ignition coil and ballast resistor (both had way to high resistance) the only test I have not done is the pressure cut off switch on the firewall (yellow and red thing with vac lines leading to it).

    I am running stock boost levels and this problem is getting worse as time goes by. I am now starting to have troubles keeping the car running when cold.

    Do have any suggestions? Any help would be great, Thanks -Brian
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