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a) Plug gap should be .028"
b) 1989 was the first year of LH 2.4, and timing is not adjusted by turning the distributor (you checked timing w/ a timing light ?)
c) There are large hood hinge springs, and a shorter spring on the hood pin/saftey latch, neither should include welding, as all those...
Ordered 13mm rear springs, but have not installed. Running used Billy HD's on the rear, which try to defeat the hop, but do not succeed.
Hop only happens in the metro (glove box pops open, etc).
On my 92 200 wagoon:
REAR 'Swedish Parts'(?), 14mm HD's
FRONT Lesjofors 14.2mm
with 25(f) 22(r) sway bars.
Overall the car handles quite well, and is fun to drive.
Too fast over a speed bump may introduce an element of airborne quality.
Ok, but you mentioned 'still having trouble', was your voltage close to 1.4v ?
* Yes the the accordion hose is stiff, you only want to 'tweak'(slightly squeeze) it a bit, before the AMM I assume?
Test the voltage of the AMM red/white wire with POS lead on your voltmeter, and you can ground the NEG lead to the battery. You should be looking for around 1.4v with key on(not running).
You can report back your findings, and take it from there.
For whatever reason the majority of suppliers do no list nor give out wire diameter on coil springs:-)???:).
In general on a 240, I've always heard 12mm is stock for sedan rears, and 13mm for wagon.
When you say you changed the master cyl and bled the brakes, did bleed the entire system ?
The pedal goes to the floor in 2 ways:
a) fluid leak
b) air in system
240 - Brake Bleed Procedure? | Turbobricks - The Volvo Performance Community
I had this happen on a 240, where the pass side caliper would not bleed even after removing the bleeder nipple. I tried wire, and a small cable but the bleeder route was plugged. I ended up replacing that caliper, with a used unit, then rebuilding both fronts. No problems after that, just left...
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