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My guess on boost would be something like 1.3-1.5bar to get you around cars. Heck, you probably only need it for a few seconds to get up to speed and then go back to low boost to complete the pass. The Isuzu NPR intercooler is a great upgrade for a 240, but I'm not sure how it would fit into a...

I’d double check the cam timing. 1-tooth regarded on the cam timing can cause detonation. Then double check your ignition installation and timing. Make sure the timing mark on the crank is actually at TDC when the engine is at TDC.

Rollers are great when everything works well. Get debris in the roller bearing and it skids.... goodbye camshaft and lifter. As you said, it's all a trade off. With respect to the cam oiling, is there a oil passage that you could tap into and run a hardline that could supply a more direct...

My experience: DLC coatings require the base material to be super finished before coating. Otherwise you get a really rough diamond part that chews up other components. The base material is also very important, as it needs to be hard and stiff. DLC over a soft material will cause flaking, which...

If your budget allows, I highly recommend getting a 123 distributor that's programmable if LH2.0 would play nicely with it. The ones with pre-selected curves are ok, but the BT programmable ones are where it's at.

Ideally you would only pull timing around peak torque, which that starts to do. You want to add adv as the revs increase past peak torque, usually.

The degrees are in both Crank and dizzy, but the revs are in dizzy rpm.

Even with stock rubber engine and trans mounts on the 5.slow 244, there were some good vibes in it at idle. It definitely gets very smooth once you're moving though.

You probably could, I haven't done that personally. I think you'd end up with a timing curve that probably would not work very well. Here's a post from waaayyyyy back, the timing table is in crank degrees instead of dizzy so you'll want to halve the rpm values...

Ok, so in looking at the curves a bit more... The 007 uses the vac retard to pull ignition when going through peak torque. The 017 uses vac adv that adds timing at WOT. The 007 will actually give you more timing in the 2-3k range(~3deg more) if you use the recommended base timing amounts. The...

Do you plan on changing the LH2.4 timing tables with a chip? The 007 timing curve makes more sense as it's lower in the peak torque area, but the initial ramp rate on the 017 is what I see more often with higher CR engines. The total ADV on the 017 curve is a lot even at a base timing of 0°...

I think the parasitic losses are pretty low on the mech fans. Even with a tropical fan clutch they aren't engaged that often in my experience. But I agree that when moving the fan isn't doing too much, the cooling systems on these cars are actually pretty decent.

Ehhh, I wouldn't say the mech fans steal HP it's probably the opposite. Moving air takes a certain amount of power, e-fans take power as do the mech fan with clutch. The fan clutch is completely disengaged when the rad temps are cool, so the power loss there is minimal. You can stop and hold the...

I think it's the stud relaxing and stretching, which then causes the nuts to become loose. There's an ebay store out of Australia iirc that has a lot of machined inconel studs. No mention of the grade, but ir has to be better than the "automotive" studs that everyone else sells...

With this manifold, I think you could drill out the threaded holes and use a through bolt and jet-nut. You can buy inconel studs and a286 bolts for reasonably cheap. With a through bolt setup I think you could get more clamp load and less relaxation over a stud going into cast iron.

Does anyone have insight on the durability of the MAC valves or the Pierburg valves when racing? For the KISS approach, I like the MBC + solenoid valve.

Is it a stock type disc? I’ve had that issue with ceramic clutches all the time.

Ps: there is a ball bearing and spring inside the switch. They’re either encrusted in greasy goo, or they’ll fly out.

I’d pull the switches apart and clean the internal contacts, and check the wires in the doors as others have said. The rocker can be popped off with a small flat head or pick tool. Pretty darn easy to do.

If that is the case, they probably installed the top cover and had the shift rod rotate/move out of alignment. It’s very easy to do. This happens to me about 25% of the time. I’ll always install the cover and tighten a few bolts, toss on the tail shaft housing with a few bolts, then run it...