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Paying a shop to do an engine swap is $10k minimum, $20k isn't out of the realm of possibilities. STS Machining in Oregon has done a few LS swaps for customers, it is often cheaper to ship off the car to someone who's done many of the specific swap you want to do.
The IAC is PWM (pulse width modulated), if the TPS isn't showing idle then it would usually go into a fail safe mode where it just idles high and throws a code.
If you get a chip burner, and you find the .bin files, you can burn all of the different 9xx versions and put them in your existing 954 to try out. A burner and some chips are probably cheaper than finding another ECU.
Don't get the bores honed if you have no idea what they're currently measuring and and if you don't know what pistons you're using. Mic the bores, find what pistons you can run, then get them bored for the pistons. I'd also personally get the block decked but you'd need to know your deck height...
It's my understanding that a larger base circle is easier on the valvetrain, though that could just be because smaller base circle cams usually have a faster ramp. Have you seen any downsides to reliability from a smaller base circle? I'm considering trying some Swedish regrinds.
1.5mm (more realistically .062") on my engine. I use a pinto belt with the tensioner maxed out. I have to remove the cam gear to get the belt off. I tried a stock belt and I felt like it was at risk of being too loose.
Back to the original topic, my timing marks line up with the aforementioned...
Adjusting the pump pickup height is easy, if it really is indeed too low, you can trim the metal pressure line and scoot the hose and pump up a little. The yellow wire bolts to where the plastic pump brace bolts to, it's grounding the pump to the sender.
Those micro variations in bearings seem to be pretty common. If the engine has any kind of miles on it I'd say it's not a bother, just as long as it's "standard" sized mains. Sometimes the bearing just behind the timing gear can be a little undersized after all this time, I've seen some builders...
What's your battery voltage while off and when cranking? Mine did this for a couple weeks then the battery died. I suspected that the coolant temp sensor was getting a poor reading when you first turn to key position 2. I'd check the coolant temp sensor's resistance at the LH module's plug too...
The H cam is a stage 0 cam at the end of the day. Too many people have said that it's some massive cam that's dead down low and won't work in an automatic, and I believe that that comes from both having not enough CR and the trash exhaust port (and intake port throat I'm going to admit) on a...
If the slave is not holding pressure, the fluid has to be going somewhere else (leaking). If your soft line isn't turning into a balloon with pedal pressure, then it's gotta be the master.
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