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If you're running standalone and speed/ density you will need the 850 style TPS that's a potentiometer not on/ off switch like the lh stuff.

It did, I thought the video did too

Sounds like a mine did with a bad big end rod bearing.

245's are made into service vehicles in Tales from the Loop on Prime. There's a few other cool cars too, a mark1 rabbit, VW bus police van, a real live Dodge K car for the uninitiated.

I used this adapter from Hanlon motorsports and a $500 TR-3650 from a 2004 v8 mustang. This bolted up the BNE T5/TKO adapter. https://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/product/hms-tr-3650-adapter-plate/ https://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/hanlon-modified-tremec-tr-3650-perfect-for-coyote-ls-swaps/ I had...

I'm shipping my JVAB SB flywheel off to South Bend to get something that fits the outer bolt holes maybe 240mm? I'll post up when I find out.

Correct then it loses power at KP2, whatever you're using isn't hot at start and KP2, I fought mine for a couple days until I figured it out.

You need to supply 12vdc to the microsquirt from a wire that is hot during crank and run, I used the blue coil power wire to flip a relay that turns it all on.

I used a coil from a VW passat that has a built in ignitor that takes its signal directly from the Microsquirt, I think it was a '94? I had to get Kingsborn to make a custom coil wire but you can just crimp a Volvo distributor cap end onto a VW wire which is what I did at first.

What kind of budget do you have in mind? Just the pieces to do it can add up without adding in shop labor. Sorry I don't have any insight on any Vegas shops but I bet there are some custom car shops there.

I found a broken second compression ring on #3"cylinder that was causing me a lot of blow by. It still ran fine though.

They are torque to angle bolts not torque to yield bolts or you wouldn't be able to reuse them.

I've welded 3/4" npt drain onto my B23 oil pan, I will plumb my 2 catch cans and turbo drain into this. Is there any reason to keep the factory black box drain, I'm running one of my catch cans off a Yoshi pcv adapter with the drain portion capped off and the other catch can vents the valve...

It's attached near the oil pump

You can post in the wanted section, but definitely check the wear in the ring lands on whatever piston you use. Yoshifab or KLracing in Sweden should be able to get you pistons.

The Darien gap will be a challenge unless you take some kind of ferry around it.

I didn't feel the need to change anything when I used the Explorer rear brakes, they seem to have a little more stopping power than the volvo rear brakes so I think you may find too much rear brake without the reducing valves.

Check the condition of the CTS wiring and connector. Also which CTS did you replace? The easy one to get to is for the gauge the one you can't get to under the 3rd intake runner is the one for the ecu. Also just make sure the connector is fully seated.

4 degrees on mine not 20

Are you automatic or manual transmission? I run an A cam fully advanced on an STS cam pulley on my auto 245 and it's so much better than the M, it pulls all the way till the tranmission shifts. I don't think the cam gear is going to help your idle though, you should be looking for vacuum leaks.