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The shims go beneath the bearings. If you did not install them, of course it will be loose.

12mm is a lot. It's sure worth a try. I think that would be to REDUCE the working angles of the u joints. I know on my wagons when I had a lot of weight in the back I would get vibrations due to the increased angles. What you DON'T want is a zero degree working angle because then the u joints...

I have a B21FT fuel system for sale for $100 that was known good working order when it was pulled due to the car being rear ended. https://turbobricks.com/index.php?threads/free-b21ft-short-block-240-turbo-engine-components-for-sale.377005/

84B23F (aka Kansas) may not be around here anymore. He hasn't logged in since Jan, 2024.

The turbo isn't bad. It is just oil from your PCV system.

It is a misfire? You can put your hand over the tail pipe and you can tell if it's a dead miss. Or unplug an injector one at a time and see if there's a dead cylinder Or maybe it's just your intake rig causing the problems

IDK what happened to him. No login since Feb 2024. I sent a message asking if he's ok and never heard back...

Dubstep. Yop yop yop

Ok. Well, OP hasn't logged on since Oct 8, 2024 so this one will likely just be another dead thread with no resolution. At least now I know Regina has that relay. We didn't get Regina cars in California so I don't really ever see them. A few here and there in the junkyards, but I haven't...

Who is Reed? I got to play with a reed tachometer in class. We then punched the data into a worksheet and did a little math and could determine first order, second order vibration, etc and which component is the source of the vibration. There are also electronic vibration analyzers out there...

Did you make sure the driveshaft halves are indexed correctly? The arrows are probably long rusted away, but there is an arrow on each half of the shaft. One member here got his vibration to go away by cutting out some of the rubber in the outer diameter of an aftermarket center support. Maybe...

Be ready to find the balance shafts puking oil and NLA components down there.

Reported! Damn AI bots

I usually get 225 miles from a 15 gallon tank on my bricks. That is 15 mpg.

Pull the torque converter and look for fluid passages on the input shaft. The holes will also be in the converter if it's a lockup. That's how it locks up.

Sounds like the module is shorted out and taking down a data line

I wouldn't drive with a unplugged connector. If water gets in there, you are screwed. You could at least bag it and tape if off tightly if you really need to drive it. That's great that somebody already pointed you right to a common source of the U code.

It's for a manual vent for euro non AC cars. On most cars it's sealed up with a plastic plug which can leak. I always seal mine up with a huge bead of RTV.

Volvo wiring documentation isn't always accurate. The wiring colors change over the years and models. Most of the stuff you find will be for Euro versions of the vehicle. I don't know what relays are named each letter. Just be prepared for the printed information to be wrong for you vehicle.

Relays don't pulse injectors.