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No not really, the gap will account for some blow by but youre talking thousandths of and inch, really not enough to cause a notable increase in blow by. It would take an excessively large ring gap. The majority of blow by in a boosted or high compression engine comes from the rings compressing...

If you have to vent the crank case more because of your ring gap it's definitely too much. Block ventilation is one of those things where it's either adequate or it's not. The whole point of gapping rings is to give them enough room to expand without the ends touching each other. More power...

Just use this. Can't go wrong here.

It's really sounding like a coolant temp sensor to me. I'm like 80% sure that's what it is. When that sensor fails the computer defaults to its coldest idle value which is something crazy like -120 degrees F which raises the idle as high as it can.

Do yourself a favor and remove all those cheap aluminum contact fuses and throw them directly in the trash. Those are nothing but problems. Go ahead and order some of the ceramic/brass fuses, wire brush all the contacts and bend them close to tighten the fuse and coat the contacts in dielectric...

You could have a vacuum leak or it could still be a bad computer. There is also a way to calibrate it by grounding out terminal 10. What's the lowest yours drops to? If the coolant temp sensor is bad it could be making it think it's much colder than it is causing a very high idle. When mine...

Man I just went through this exact problem on my 83 240t. It would idle around 3k no matter what. The problem was the idle control computer was bad. They are fragile and now they are 40 years old which is extremely old for an old analog computer. I went through everything related to the idle...

When I looked it up the 052 says it's for 82-85 and the 053 is for 82-83 which tells me literally nothing lol. My car is an 83 and came with the green label 052. I was just curious if they were different at all and why they felt the need to generate a new part number.

Hello I have 2 Lambda controllers both from a 240 turbo. One has a green label and is part number 0 280 800 052. The other has a brown label and is numbered 0 280 800 053. I was wondering if there's any actual difference in functionality between the two or is it just a part number succession...

Just replaced that Valve on my 245. The entire car is built around it. Major PITA. The part is available but had to come from Europe.

Golvo is making almost 1000 AWHP on a stock 2.3 block abusing it for years straight spinning it to 9000 rpm. I'd say they are durable. No shims, no pins, and no girdle. Other than maybe rods and pistons whiteblocks don't need alot of improving. Don't push 24 psi through your 19T or K24 on stock...

Was the cold start injector something that came on cars that went to very cold markets or something? Just seems so ridiculous to have that on an EFI setup that can compensate for temp.

There are 500 whp fwd P80's. Even at 400hp you're gonna need all the help you can get. Quaife is a must, GOOD street tires like Michelin pilot sports or a drag radial. The only logical thing to do is shift the power higher in the rev range. Maybe do an RN head just for the solid cam buckets and...

That looks like it took in some dirt or sand into that cylinder while running. As unpleasant as those gouges are to look at they won't hurt anything. There are two compression rings contacting the bore at two different points and they are moving so fast that there won't be time for anything to...

The 4 speed autos are pretty stout all things considered. M56 swap is obviously better and cooler. Heat is a big issue with the AW50-42 so a quality trans cooler goes a long way. I still wouldn't trust it at 400hp for long. The mitsubishi turbos make great low end for the street but bend rods...

What 1991 240's came with a cold start injector?? Iver personally never seen that before.

Wow the new car is so clean. I'm sure you will have fun detailing that one. There must have been a curse at play. It's almost physically impossible to blow up an n/a stock B230. I've seen those engines run for thousands of miles with just under a quart of oil in them.

What you saw was basically the generic 123 curve. I might add a remote knock sensor just to be on the safe side and see what i can get away with. Idk how much help the B21ft factory stuff would be running a much larger turbo. Maybe just a solid baseline. The factory 240 Turbo ignition maps were...

Yeah thats what it looks like. Thanks to all who gave input on this. I flattened the MAP curve some like bobxyz mentioned. This thing pulls like a freight train on 16lbs. Has plenty of fuel to spare too according to WB. I could never get this kind of power from it with the old breaker less ignition.

Btw on modern day digital dwell meters do you still set it to 6 cyl for these cars or is it 4 cyl?