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1030 open diff torque settings


New member
Oct 9, 2022
Hi all, I'm pretty new to Volvos so bear with me :0)

I'm trying to find some torque figures and get some advice regarding my
standard 240 axle (1030) non LSD diff 3.73ratio.
I need to pull the diff out and replace or at least check my side gear thrust washers. And before I start pulling it all apart I need to know what torque settings I need to use for my main bearing caps and probably the ring gear bolts.
Am I right in thinking I will have to remove the ring gear to get the pin out that holds the top and bottom spider gears out so I can then pull the side gears?
Do I have to use new bolts and reset the shims if the ring gear is removed bearing in mind that part of my axle is set up sweet?

I've spent time trying to find the answers on here already but most seem to be talking about lsd swaps. I found these but wouldn't mind either confirmation or correcting before I screw it up
Main caps 35-50 lbs/ft or 60lbs/ft (unsure if either are correct)
Ring gear 50-58lbs/ft or 65-80lbs/ft if the bolts have a flange head.
They could be totally wrong though.

Any advice will be graciously accepted

For main caps I've always used 55-60 ft-lbs.
There are two sizes of ring gear bolts, and Volvo used the smallest. 55 ft-lbs on those.

And yes, you do have to remove the ring gear to drive the cross shaft retaining pin out. No need for new shims, just make sure the ring gear is properly seated back onto the carrier.

Mark the caps, or clean them and the case off so you can see the left/right identifying marks (not always there). I've worked on a few noisy 1030s that had issues because the caps were swapped. It's easy to do when you're in a hurry or not paying attention.
Well I got the diff out and immediately came across my first issue. I can't access the ring gear bolts as there's a shield there. Obviously the main bearing is on tight and the bearing prevents the shield from being removed. I'd rather not rive the bearing off as they're in good nick. Just cut the shield off carefully or is there a better route to take?
Volvo calls it a lock cover or plate and it's function is to prevent the ring gear bolts from backing out.


Apparently the ring gear bolts were coming loose so Volvo issued a TSB in November '71 to install a spring washer under the bolts and to use Loctite on Anti-Spin diffs.


Locking crown wheel screws.
In order to obtain a more secure locking of the crown wheel screws, we have introduced a spring washer under the screw heads. On gearboxes with differential brakes (Anti-Spin), we have also introduced locking with locking fluid of both the crown wheel and the crown wheel screws.

The washers are introduced into our production from week 33 and locking fluid from week 39 (some gearboxes with differential brakes lack locking washers).

The washer, part number 942336-9, should always be fitted when refurbishing previous rear gears as well. Ten tiles are required for each gear.

On gearboxes with a differential brake, the threads of the crown wheel screws and the contact surfaces of the crown wheel against the differential housing are also provided with locking fluid type Loctite RC (retaining compound). ATTENTION! First clean the surfaces thoroughly with trichlorethylene or equivalent.

I guess that didn't work so they issued another TSB in February '73 to ditch the washers and use the lock plate.


A plate that prevents loose crown housing screws from falling out and causing damage has been introduced into our production as of week 4. In connection with the introduction of the plate, the spring washers under the crown housing screws were removed.

The plate is mounted on the shoulder under the differential housing bearing as shown. It can only be mounted on differential housings with this approach.
Apparently the ring gear bolts were coming loose so Volvo issued a TSB in November '71 to install a spring washer under the bolts and to use Loctite on Anti-Spin diffs.

I guess that didn't work so they issued another TSB in February '73 to ditch the washers and use the lock plate.

It's super interesting to see all the TSBs and greenbook info!
Thanks for always sharing it!
That's actually really cool. Thanks chaps
I've pulled it all apart and I've got a terminal spider gear problem so I'm going to be looking for a replacement axle/diff unit..... . Which seem pretty thin on the ground here in the UK, other than Ebay I'm not even sure where to start looking.
I've measured my ring gear and it appears to be a 1031 but the axle casing is definitely 1030 style with the single rib. I did some more reading on here and it sounds like early 90s axles were like that so it looks like mine is actually a 1031 axle
I'll stick some pics up when I suss how to do it. See if I can revive an old photobucket account. The wear is in the diff housing where the side gear sits in with the wavey washer. Whomever had it before me must have ran the axle dry at some point.
Hi, Im struggling to find a replacement 240 axle here in the UK so I've been reading a lot of posts to see what my options are for my knackered diff problem. Can I fit a diff from a 2.3 litre 940 turbo if I swap my ring gear on to it? I'm not bothered about the speedo being accurate, I just want to get it back on the road.
Im trying to find a definative yes or no but I get a bit confused as I don't know all the models and differences between them.
Did they all have G80 lsd's or just some of the models?

or do I need to start a new thread, i'm unsure of the protocols on here.

As long as it's a beam axle and not a IRS, the center sections of the diffs will swap (1030 or 1031, it does not matter). You will probably get lucky and be able to use the same bearings from the donor axle.

In the US, they came in both open or with the g80. If it is a g80, there is a chance that you will have to shorten one of the axle splines a bit.

Shipping to the UK might be high (should fit in a international USPS flat rate box), but they are around $100 usd complete for a used open carrier with parts.
oh, good info, Ive been reading about the process today and none of them mentioned there was an IRS version.
Yeah, I clearly live in the wrong country for the good stuff hahahaha. and everything rusts soooooooo quickly
Thanks once again
Hello again. Have sourced diff, stripped and cleaned etc. Used red loctite on ring gear bolts
Used new wavey washers on side gears as the old ones were poor. Spider gears Seem a bit notchy/clunky when turned by hand via the half shaft (no oil in yet) not sure what normal should feel like as the old diff was shot in this area and the replacement was super gunked up so needed stripping. I've put everything back on the sides they came out and matched the rotating bits with the washers they were associated with like top/bottom gears with those cup washer things

Do I need to use red loctite on the bearing cap bolts?