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16v turbo faq

I have had two successful group buys on valve reliefs. It seems to have died off either because of lack of interest or lack of knowing it exists. Maybe if people read about it in the FAQ they might mozy over there and step up to the plate. I also have enough confidence in the exhaust manifold adapter plates to add them to the FAQ.

the whole kit is up there already, its gold. if you have seperate links for the items, pm them to me, I'll be glad to itemize it at the top as well.
when installing the head on a b230 do you HAVE to run chips or engine management? because i was going to get a new head and i have this head already but cant get chips right now. thanks
From what I've been told by those who have done this is that it's possible to run stock turbo computers if one doesn't get greedy with boost. I'm planning on doing this and keeping the boost down to about 7 psi or so.
nope just crazy wild guesses - from a driving point of view it's much better at passing on the highway - I get more power at 3000rpm (full boost) then I ever did on N/A (goes positive pressure at 2500rpm)
Would the block mounted dizzy clear the 16V head if an alternate thermostat housing was fabbed up?
Anyone have a pic of the interference?
I'm running LH2.4 on my 16vt and it works just fine. My 10:1 16vt had a couple of issues with idle, but now I have a B234FT with turbo pistons and custom cut valve reliefs and it runs just fine!
I'm running LH2.4 on my 16vt and it works just fine. My 10:1 16vt had a couple of issues with idle, but now I have a B234FT with turbo pistons and custom cut valve reliefs and it runs just fine!

How much boost are you running? Which intercooler?
Not much boost right now. Maybe a few psi. I didnt have time to fab a wastegate bracket before I installed the engine the night before I had to move out of my house.

Stock 1992+ Intercooler. Project thread link is in my sig.
im building a b230ft with a 16 valve head, i got the torque specs for the first half of the head, does anyone else have all the torque specs, i searched the net but keep finding different torque specs:wtf:
I'm almost finished with my first twin cam build. I need to install spark plug wires. Though I know it's not necessary, I want to find something with the big, rubber plugs that will fit the valve cover correctly, hopefully with the loooong insulators to reach the plugs. Before I give up and just get something generic, does anyone out there know of a set that works? This is a block mount dizzy setup for 240.
I used Ford truck wires for a while, they have a straight boot at the plug end with a largish finger handle that sits about flush with the valve cover. It makes it hard to grab hold of them for removal because you can't get your fingers around the boot in the hole. Probably not "exactly" what you were looking for.
I Just wanted to add a little piece of information to give a little update for those who haven't prioritized getting a replacement for the stock intake.

A side benefit, the b234 intake are said to have poor #1 and #4 flow, not with this intake.

The #2 and #3 cylinders are favored with the stock b234 intake in a turbo motor. Here are some pics of an exhaust manifold after running on the stock intake after 10+ years.

It's not the camera flash that makes the #2 and 3# cylinders appear light brown, but the result of a leaner mixture compared to #1 and #4.

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Not sure how i missed this thread, but it has some great info, and some not so updated info, in my personal experience. So let me offer some friendly advice, take it or leave it.I offer part numbers, and some of my bad and good here, mostly this has to do with how to build and parts to use.

The pistons do not have to have valve reliefs, ***IF*** the stock 16 v head was unmolested(not taken to machine shop and shaved,decked to be flat) and the same goes with the block to be used on. I ran a 89 na motor underneath my 16 v head the first time around with no valves hitting and no notching of pistons. Cometic also sells a thicker head gasket for the b234 if your worried. Rsi used to sell them.


Here's a pic of my split bore block episode(severe carnage), here you can see shaved na pistons, and arp studs, and metal cometic headgasket (thickest)
Hbeam rods, stock pistons- and a split bore in the block caused this. Use a 93 and up squirter 8v block for best results.




Moral of the story, is have the machine shop check block for cracks- before building, it could have frozen in the winter in storage or suffered from core shift. Use 93 and up 8 v block.

An 850 timing belt can be used -I used one for a 1997 850 r. You can also use a cam gear tension er from a vw dohc mid 80's or 90s model.Also stock volvo idler pictured. I locktite the tensioner and unbolt the idler from then on for any service. I also cut a x pattern in the back of the v dub tensioner to help it "grab" the block. I also shaved a 1/4 of inch IIRC off the stock red block crank pulley to get all the belts to line up (i made the key way notch on back of crank much deeper before machining the crank pulley, so it stayed in same location-die grinder with cut off wheel works perfect, then a punch to knock the metal off). I used three b234 cam gears, the third is for the oil pump drive/ balancer/block distributor drive.I also used the b234 crank gear and machined the b230f balancer down half an inch or so to line up with belts.

Tensioner part number.


In my opinion, The above pic of lean condition has nothing to do with stock intake,and everything to do with exhaust manifold design. Again, personal experience. Remember that drift video on you tube of that crazy 740 with the music from gone in 60 seconds (bring sally up)? I had piston #4 burn up ring lands, in 4 back to back cases, all do to a shotty log manifold i first had on it.
Here is my first attempt..On log manifold.DON"T do this!



Video of awesome drift 16v+T 7 series with driver mod.


Take a good close look at that STOCK factory intake with two fuel rails(8 injectors-two different style factory Volvo fuel rails for the win) on it making Gobs of power.

Here's what i used for exhaust manifold, modified ebay gem. started as this, and hits water pump neck, with a t3 flange (start t4 if you want great top end)


To this.


There has been question about how to properly seal the head plates, cam box and all. I recommend these from orielly auto parts.Throw the exhaust gasket gasket in the trash, its pointless.The headgasket can work if you use headstuds and a light film of copper coat, other wise be safe and get metal head gasket and use a flat bar to check all surfaces. Flat is good, even is better. Run bar from side to side and feel the wavy ridges. It may pass the feeler gauge test(under flat bar), but hardly anything passes the "flat bar drag test" you can feel the imperfections on the block and head by the way the bar catches when its dragged. Hardly anyone teaches this method, its way old school, and it works the best.



it comes with this gasket,


and the rubber o rings for these.


All other surfaces i seal with a very very thin amount of ultra grey out of cheese whiz spray can. Be sure not to use too much and clog up oil valleys for the lifters, BIG NO NO, scrape all excess off that area, as some will squeeze out.

ARP headstuds part number from rsi-1601-ap16

The only exhaust gasket to mess with , should be from Volvo!

I ran off lh 2.4 for a while, but went on to ms when i could not find my cps harness issue at both plugs(pull back wore and check your wire to both male and female plug to flywheel sensor) They get worn out being plugged in and unplugged for so many years. Lh can work , even a 8v ecu that chipped. But if you go crazy, ms is the light at the end of the tunnel. IMHE.


If you run ms, use the stock flywheel sensor(lh 2.4) and two 10k resistors on the cps, i found this out by accident and trail and error back in '14, while others tried different things.I used 90 ish- elcipse coil packs and the eclipse tachometer adapter to make sure tach works great, before others made different things..More than one way, but these above are the Way I DID IT. Good luck, and know this, it's worth it!
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Hi Guys,
I am new to this forum , and I know I haven't formally introduced myself, but if you google my name you will see what we are capable of .

I just wanted to add some things to this thread helping others since your turbobrick forum has helped me a a lot in building my 240 with B234F 16V head.
I own a 1986 240 estate and dropped in a B230F bottom ,changed pistons ( and rings and bearing off course ) with a B234F head, now some issues I have come across.

I did not want a secondary belt pully because the more parts you use the more problems appear
So Nippon Denso Partnr # J1125025 is a 149 teeth timing belt 25mm wide which uses the secondary belt support # J1145047
By using Gates # 5048 you dont need a secondary pully since it is 146 Teeth timing beld 24mm wide
All is combined with tensioner # VKM11020 using 1 ring from a camshaft bold , no extra's required
I used the stud from the original B230F head of the tensioner thus making it M10 in stead of M8 bold size ( redrill the hole and tap new thread )

with this setup its not necessary to use adjustable timing gear on the camshafts because they line up perfect
just FYI .
I will post pictures as soon as it runs