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16v turbo faq

Hi Guys,
I am new to this forum , and I know I haven't formally introduced myself, but if you google my name you will see what we are capable of .

I just wanted to add some things to this thread helping others since your turbobrick forum has helped me a a lot in building my 240 with B234F 16V head.
I own a 1986 240 estate and dropped in a B230F bottom ,changed pistons ( and rings and bearing off course ) with a B234F head, now some issues I have come across.

I did not want a secondary belt pully because the more parts you use the more problems appear
So Nippon Denso Partnr # J1125025 is a 149 teeth timing belt 25mm wide which uses the secondary belt support # J1145047
By using Gates # 5048 you dont need a secondary pully since it is 146 Teeth timing beld 24mm wide
All is combined with tensioner # VKM11020 using 1 ring from a camshaft bold , no extra's required
I used the stud from the original B230F head of the tensioner thus making it M10 in stead of M8 bold size ( redrill the hole and tap new thread )

with this setup its not necessary to use adjustable timing gear on the camshafts because they line up perfect
just FYI .
I will post pictures as soon as it runs

Will be looking forward to seeing some pictures. :-)
 
Yep 146 teeth just like volvo used in the b230 16v boat motors. Somewhere there is another thread where I posted all the numbers for that belt from all the other manufactures and the place to get the belts I found is on ebay UK as they used the 146 teeth 24 or 25mm belts in cars over there. Vauxall and names I never heard of. The tensioner is a VW tensionier off a diesel I believe similar to the boat one but only 25 buxs compared to 350 for the boat one new. I posted the number for that also on that other thread. I'll see if I can find it.

I didn't take 1/4 inch off back of my crank pulley, I took 4mm..

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=288262

What you should use is a 146 toothed belt like VOLVO designed for there 16v heads they put on boats... I got some from ebay UK. I can't remember off had what car they come from but it's some weird one. I will look for the link. I paid $15 for the 146 tooth belt. You won't need a idler with it..


Dayco 146 RP 240 94229 made in E.E.C.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dayco-Cam-...item53fd64e2bd

CONTINENTAL Part Number: CT540 Corss reference to the following Suppliers/Manufacturer
AE TB224
AUTO-DELTA TB882
BALCO BTB1130
BOSCH 1987949045
CONTINENTAL CT540
DAYCO 146SP240
DAYCO 94229
FIRSTLINE FTB3432
GATES 5129
GOODYEAR G1270
LUCAS KCB155
MASTERPARTS MTB46
MOPROD MTB130
MOTAQUIP VTB229
OPEL 636364
OPEL 636563
OPEL 90281312
OPEL 90410784
POWERTRAIN PMTB52
QUINTON HAZELL QTB199
ROVER GROUP GTB1129
TRW - FEDERAL MOGUL 4829629
ULTRAPARTS UTB1312
UNIPART GTB1129
VAUXHALL 90281312
VAUXHALL 90410784
VEGEM VT177
FAI 45146
 
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is there some problem with using an idler pulley to keep the belt wrap a little tighter on the aux shaft (something that in and of itself isn't a big deal either)?
 
Hi Guys, I have cylinder head from B204E and B230FK engine, and I have a question: if I change my 530 8v cylinder head to 16v spot facing cutters on a pistons does it neccessary or no? I know that neccessary for B234 cylinder head but for 204 cylinder head it don't clear for me.
 
it's probably not a bad idea, but the 204 head is different from the 234 head iirc (smaller valves and chamber size?), so YMMV. There have been people that have gotten away with not cutting the reliefs.
 
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