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1976 242 A/C delete help

rearwheelpeel

rearwheelpeel

Slow Learner
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Location
Rochester NY
I'm trying to get rid of the a/c compressor and keep power steering on my 1976 242. It has a big old square power steering pump on top of the ac compressor. I have the b21 ac delete bracket from sts, but im unsure of what else I'll need. I thought I was going to go with a Saginaw pump but I've just read those wont work with this bracket and I need to use a pump from a later car with a press on pulley. So what pump should I use and what size belt will I need?
 
Consider a '91+ Power Steering Pump. They have an integral fluid reservoir and are less prone to leaking than the older Saginaw pump.

Most any 91-93 240 should have the pump & high pressure line you'll need.

Looks like this..

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Use a tailors tape measure to see what length of belt you'll need. Try to get a notched belt design as they work a bit better.
Edit: Those pulleys use a 9.5 or 10mm wide belt.
 
I do have that bracket, is there a reason I should use that and not the one I got from sts? I'm thinking I'll use the 91+ pump. Is there anything else I'll need besides the pump, pulley, reservoir, and high pressure line?
 
Has Anyone found a decent set of instructions, or tips for a 240 A/C Delete?
I have the IPD Bracket kit - I'm looking for some guidance in removing the Compressor, Hoses, Evaporator, Condenser, and ancillary hardware.

Anyone have any tips here? I'm a bit of a junior level mechanic, so would love a step-by-step walk through before I start unbolting and cutting.
IPD says to have a shop bleed the R12 left in the system before I do anything.
 
TopherTopher said:
Has Anyone found a decent set of instructions, or tips for a 240 A/C Delete?
I have the IPD Bracket kit - I'm looking for some guidance in removing the Compressor, Hoses, Evaporator, Condenser, and ancillary hardware.

Anyone have any tips here? I'm a bit of a junior level mechanic, so would love a step-by-step walk through before I start unbolting and cutting.
IPD says to have a shop bleed the R12 left in the system before I do anything.
Click to expand...
If your AC doesn't work, why go through the hassle to permanently remove it from the car? I'd argue it will be more work to properly remove the system than to get it working again.
 
OVERDRIVE said:
If your AC doesn't work, why go through the hassle to permanently remove it from the car? I'd argue it will be more work to properly remove the system than to get it working again.
Click to expand...
Well, I'm hoping to get a little more power out of my power steering pump. I like to take advantage of that 9m turning radius.
(half kidding)
But actually it just bugs me that their are these big freon hoses cluttering up the engine bay. I'd like to remove those and the drier, and the heavy compressor and just free up some space. Next on my list is installing E-Code headlights, and a set of vintage Bosch Pilot Fog lights I found. So I thought while I'm behind the grill, i'd remove the condenser as well.

Since having written the above post, I found a really funky old 240/140/p1800 shop here in Berkeley, California that is willing to bleed/recapture the R12 for me: Walsh Brothers Auto Motive. "Keep 'em Rolling" I recommend them to anyone in the bay area. Reasonable rates, and willing to collaborate with DIY folks like myself.
 
TopherTopher said:
@OVERDRIVE how would I get it working again? Is there a way to make an old R12 system work without totally retrofitting it?
Click to expand...
The AC system is pretty simple to trouble shoot. Chances are the refrigerant has all leaked out. The seals are SAE, there SAE seals for AC stuff that I've gotten at Harbor Freight that work well, but you'd still need to find where it's leaking since it can leak at hoses and not just connections and seals. If there's a leak you can find it with dye. You would check if the system is leaking by pulling the system to vacuum and seeing if it can hold it for an hour. If that checks out, you can fill it with an R12 modern replacement like enviro-safe or duracool. There's a pressure sensor on the drier with 2 green wires, and there's 1 wire that feeds the compressor, it's simple to test those. There's plenty more info online about this. I decided that if I was going to go through the system that I'd want the 1993 system with the parallel flow condenser, larger evaporator, and factory R134a. I honestly don't know if I'd do that again, it was a massive undertaking.
 
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