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1979 242DL - Analog Motoring (now B6304)

Well done!

Thank god you got rid of that crappy paint work. I agree with Harland, raise it in the rear, just a little bit.
 
Thanks.

@Scaramanga
Actually with the BNE Select strut mounts, the front end dropped a little bit (as expected) and I think it looks ok now. I'll get a pic for comparison at some point.
 
Upgraded my front seats by rebuilding the seats from my brother's 92 that was wrecked. The seats were pretty thrashed but came back to life with some Wagonmeister seat grids and gluing the foam back together with some pieces of a canvas drop cloth. Pretty pleased with the result.

LXPme0

Mu7Iyd

9oXTR6

ldWZhV


25yrs of dirt coming out of the seat covers.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ul_K_eK8ZRU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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No pics, but a small update...

-had to remove/install the trans more than I should have in order to fix a leaking RMS...there was no apparent "ridge" on the crank to warrant seating the seal deeper, but the brown Elring RMS I put in did not seal and I replaced it with a 10mm red Elring.
https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/45120/Crankshaft-Seal-Rear-93x110x10mm-0044598/

-I put in an "A" cam just because and it seems to be a nice compromise between the "T" and the "V". It does not have the off/on characteristic of the "V". Also, it got rid of a 2500rpm stutter that I had ever since swapping in the "T". I'm assuming it was the knock sensor pulling timing due to the very quick spooling nature of the "T" cam and 13C turbo. Regardless, the "A" cam is a nice driveable cam that is happy with higher rpm pulls.
 
Also, as a PSA...don't use 23T speedo gears.
1Ne5Jv


While they may "still work" after they get chewed up, it's not that hard to replace the drive gear inside the trans when the trans is out. I tried reducing the diameter of this one by ~1mm per advice from a Mustang forum, but it didn't change anything.

Long story short, a 6T drive gear and a 21T driven gear work great with a 3.91 diff. Now my speedo is all but spot on.

stick70 also had a similar experience: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=182862&page=17
 
I have a 6/19 combination and it reads about 9% low. Will try a 20 and 21 tooth for ****s and giggles. What tire are you running currently?
 
Was out for a drive last night an noticed that my clutch has started slipping :roll:...can't say that I'm super surprised b/c I did put in a cheap clutch disc and still have the stock PP. However, I took out my MBC which dropped the boost from 13psi back to 7psi and the slipping stopped.

As an upgrade I'd love to go the Yoshifab 235mm route, but that's a little spendy for this project (and probably overkill). Realistically I'll probably follow what VeroDubs has done with the Saab Viggen 228mm PP and get an appropriate disc (ClutchNet / South Bend). I'd also like to do a hydraulic clutch setup at the same time.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=322724

For now I'll just settle for lower boost and save my :twocents: for the future upgrade. :)
 
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Was out for a drive last night an noticed that my clutch has started slipping :roll:...can't say that I'm super surprised b/c I did put in a cheap clutch disc and still have the stock PP. However, I took out my MBC which dropped the boost from 13psi back to 7psi and the slipping stopped.

As an upgrade I'd love to go the Yoshifab 235mm route, but that's a little spendy for this project (and probably overkill). Realistically I'll probably follow what VeroDubs has done with the Saab Viggen 228mm PP and get an appropriate disc (ClutchNet / South Bend). I'd also like to do a hydraulic clutch setup at the same time.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=322724

For now I'll just settle for lower boost and save my :twocents: for the future upgrade. :)

Hey! Clutch slippers unite! I'm in the same boat, most likely won't spring for anything before IPD, and also will ditch the MBC (or turn it down) until I find a solution that agrees with my needs and pocket book.
 
With my current clutch setup slipping and getting progressively worse, I decided to take the upgrade path of the 228mm Saab 9-3 Viggen PP and a California Clutch (aka Clutchnet) SVO disc (SM9721). I also ditched the cable actuated setup and converted to a hydro clutch. Shoutout to Uncleknucklez for collaboration and feedback on this setup.

Here is my parts lists:

Sachs 3082 302 731 pressure plate – eEuroparts (Saab 9-3 Viggen application)
SM9721 clutch disc “Smooth-Lock Pro” – California Clutch (Mustang SVO / Thunderbird turbo application)
Centric 136.39000 clutch master cyl – Rock Auto (240 diesel / 260 application)
Centric 138.39002 slave cyl – Rock Auto (740 Turbo application)
30mm snap ring (914463) – Tasca
Sachs SBA8006 throwout bearing – Rock Auto (740 Turbo application)
M90 clutch fork (3549983) – Tasca
Lock spring (1377132) - Tasca
Steel M12x1.0 – 3AN adapter (@slave) – eBay
Steel M12x1.0 – 3AN banjo (@master) – eBay
36” premade 3AN braided stainless line – eBay
Clutch pedal return spring (1205725) – Tasca
Clutch pedal pin (964843) – Tasca
Clutch pedal split pin (664822) – Tasca
?” steel plate for pedal modification – eBay
M8 washers for PP spacing- Fastenal
6003-2RS bearing – Fastenal (replacement pilot bearing)

As other have noted, the dowel pin locations on a flat flywheel need to be moved in order to use the Viggen PP on a flat flywheel. I had a local machine shop take care of this work. The dowel pin holes in the PP also needed to be opened up slightly.
dPKTyuy.jpg

(blue = bolt locations, red = old dowel locations, green = new dowel locations)

I used M8 washers to space the PP out from the flywheel ~1.5mm. The SM9721 clutch disc measures ~232mm (9.125”) and a leaves about 1-2mm between the OD of the disc and the outer cover of the PP, however it works fine.
MLN9Gvq.jpg

AG6ZzTP.jpg


I spaced the pivot ball out ~15mm and did not need to use the allen bolt modification on the clutch fork. I installed the clutch fork / TOB in the bellhousing and bolted that to the engine a few times in order to establish how much pivot ball spacing I needed.
v3JSc2i.jpg


The initial setting of the slave cylinder allowed ~1/2” additional compression and ~1” of extension. The clutch engages/disengages in the top ? of the pedal stroke.
Af26F0Z.jpg

wBxSpdD.jpg

Ia214s0.jpg


I also replaced the Mustang pilot bearing with a 6003-2RS sealed ball bearing. I was not having any issues with the Mustang pilot bearing, but the sealed ball bearing should last longer than the unsealed needle bearing.
geiAdjb.jpg

IseTzLB.jpg


I modified the clutch pedal by extending it ~2.5” and adding a tab to push on the master cyl piston. The center-to-center distance of the tab holes is 2.5” and the center of the smaller tab hole is aligned with the centerline of the clutch pedal arm. I ordered the misc OE hardware to attach the pedal to the clutch master mainly just b/c it was inexpensive and could still be ordered through Tasca (although it did require a special order and 4wk wait), although you could easily use an M8 bolt here.
k9LzHuS.jpg

FPD7OUe.jpg

JDss7uP.jpg

ykVUYbt.jpg


While I had things apart I installed 2 3/8-16 rivet nuts for the rear-most trans crossmember attachment points as my original solution was not ideal.

Driving impressions:
Clutch pedal is noticeably lighter than it was with the cable. I believe this is driven mostly by the pressure plate being a larger OE unit and not a stiffer upgraded aftermarket unit vs anything related to the hydraulic system. My cable clutch setup engaged at the bottom ? of the pedal stroke, so it took a bit to get used to the new characteristics of the clutch pedal engagement, but after a few miles it was fine.
 
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Pictures no worky :( - Looks like you tried to shorten the ridiculously long google photo URL?(Edit-tested this myself so that should work, I saw you did the with some pics above)

When I signed into a google account, all I saw was the grey "access denied" logo on the photo. Not sure if sharing settings may have anything to do with both.

Didn't want to clutter the sale thread with that info
 
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Pictures no worky :( - Looks like you tried to shorten the ridiculously long google photo URL?(Edit-tested this myself so that should work, I saw you did the with some pics above)

When I signed into a google account, all I saw was the grey "access denied" logo on the photo. Not sure if sharing settings may have anything to do with both.

Didn't want to clutter the sale thread with that info

Thanks for the heads up.

It's strange that my Google Photos method doesn't work anymore...but I edited the post using imgur so the pics should work now.
 
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