Time for an update…
TL;DR…T5 swap + adjustable panhard rod + BNE Select strut mounts.
I decided to swap out the M45 in favor of a T5. The main reasons for doing this were to gain a 5th gear/better shifter “feel”/different gear ratios.
Thanks to the available adapters and info on this board it was a rather straightforward process.
Verodubs' T5 swap: http://turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5419203
I did the swap by myself in my garage with a floor jack and the car on jackstands.
I tried to keep costs down as much as possible but I still have ~$1k into it. The primary cost drivers for me were the transmission itself and the adapter.
For posterity’s sake, here is my parts list and corresponding vendors:
-169 transmission (3.35 1st & 0.68 5th) - craigslist
87 Mustang GT driveshaft - craigslist
DeeWorks T5 adapter - Yoshifab
Mustang driveshaft adapter - Yoshifab
<del>Rhino-Pac/AMS 07-030 clutch kit for 93 4-cyl Mustang (8.5”/10-spline clutch disc) – sale @ PepBoys</del>
SM9721 SVO disc - California Clutch (aka Clutchnet)
<del>(disc has Valeo/LUK stamped on it, so it looks like it’s just a rebranded piece)</del>
V8 Fox Mustang clutch alignment tool – RockAuto
<del>V8 Fox Mustang pilot bearing (Timken FC65174) – RockAuto</del>
6003-2RS ball bearing - Fastenal <--ball bearing > needle bearing
Anchor 2530 trans mount (V8 Fox Mustang) – RockAuto
4x6x?” steel plate – eBay
<del>Elring 044590 RMS (brown Viton) - eBay</del>
Elring 044598 RMS - eEuroparts
<del>SKF throwout bearing - eEuroparts
Re-used stock Sachs 3082 185 231 pressure plate (was not having any slip issues with M45 setup, has 23k miles on it)</del>
Saab 9-3 Viggen pressure plate - eEuroparts
Mustang speedometer cable – Late Model Restoration
<del>23T speedo gear – Late Model Restoration</del> *don't use 23T speedo gears!*
6T speedo drive gear - eBay
21T speedo driven gear - Late Model Restoration
T5 reverse light pigtail – Late Model Restoration
New 240 clutch return spring – eBay (mine was almost rusted through)
Delrin clutch cable bushing – STS Machining (77volvo245)
Generic short shifter – eBay
-The T5 is much longer than the M45 and takes some more finesse to get it up into the trans tunnel and mated up with the block. I needed to install the shifter after the trans was situated in the tunnel otherwise there wasn’t enough room for it to rotate into place. I did not need to hammer any part of the tunnel.
-With my car being an early 240, it does not have x sets of tapped holes in the frame rails for the trans x-member. I installed the x-member as far back as possible and used 2x #14 sheet metal screws and fender washers to make up for the 2x missing attachment points (apparently later 240s have an additional set of holes in the frame rails).
-I followed what aaronreedbaker did for the trans mount and just had a piece of steel welded to my existing x-member.
-clutch was adjusted normally and did not require any spacing of the pivot ball
-stock clutch fork return spring can be reused, there is an attachment point on the side of the T5
-stock clutch disc thickness: 7.75 mm (23k miles)
-Mustang clutch disc thickness: 8.25 mm
-M45 weight w/o bellhousing: 59 lb
-T5 weight w/o bellhousing: 75 lb
-I corrected the pinion angle and centered the rear axle
-Speedo cable: The Mustang cable and Volvo cable both use the same size square inner drive cable (same length), but obviously have different outer casings. I grafted a Mustang speedo cable to the Volvo cable by cutting about 6” off of both the Mustang and Volvo cables at the speedo end and swapping them, using a piece of ?” hose to hold them together. There is enough interference fit that I did not use any clamps. Using a speedo gear calculator, I swapped the black speedo gear for a 23T white gear. My speedo reads 3-5 mph high...close enough for me.
-I did not like the jog in the Mustang shift lever, so I cut it up and had it re-welded to mimic the Volvo shifter angle. I also picked up a $40 eBay short shifter. Mechanically it is very simple and seems to work fine. I did replace the included cap screws with better quality ones and used Loctite on all fasteners.
I also made my stock panhard rod adjustable with Steinjager hardware. I cut ~6” in out of my stock panhard rod and set the turnbuckle to allow for ~1” of “shortening” from the stock length.
The Steinjager pieces I used were:
-J0028417 ?-16 LH/RH turnbuckle
-3/4-16 LH threaded bung
-3/4-16 RH threaded bung
I also picked up a set of BNE Select strut mounts. They are very nice units as expected. I installed using bolts in “Position 1” due to my stock diameter springs and it is worth noting that these mounts will allow the spring to touch the upper strut tower which will cause the steering to bind. This would not be an issue with smaller diameter coilover springs. In the end I set my camber at -1* and did not have any issues with binding. You can see the camber/caster change that is built into the mounts from this pic with a 15A support plate for reference.
After reading some suspension threads, I decided to swap the 25mm rear ipd swaybar for the stock 19mm bar which made bumps and expansion joints less harsh.
Overall, the most noticeable item after completing the swap is that the car is quieter while driving. I attribute this to the rear-end previously not being optimally aligned and/or worn bearings in the driveshaft with the M45 setup. Having a 5th gear is great and the car drives very nicely so far.