With my current clutch setup slipping and getting progressively worse, I decided to take the upgrade path of the 228mm Saab 9-3 Viggen PP and a California Clutch (aka Clutchnet) SVO disc (SM9721). I also ditched the cable actuated setup and converted to a hydro clutch. Shoutout to Uncleknucklez for collaboration and feedback on this setup.
Here is my parts lists:
Sachs 3082 302 731 pressure plate – eEuroparts (Saab 9-3 Viggen application)
SM9721 clutch disc “Smooth-Lock Pro” – California Clutch (Mustang SVO / Thunderbird turbo application)
Centric 136.39000 clutch master cyl – Rock Auto (240 diesel / 260 application)
Centric 138.39002 slave cyl – Rock Auto (740 Turbo application)
30mm snap ring (914463) – Tasca
Sachs SBA8006 throwout bearing – Rock Auto (740 Turbo application)
M90 clutch fork (3549983) – Tasca
Lock spring (1377132) - Tasca
Steel M12x1.0 – 3AN adapter (@slave) – eBay
Steel M12x1.0 – 3AN banjo (@master) – eBay
36” premade 3AN braided stainless line – eBay
Clutch pedal return spring (1205725) – Tasca
Clutch pedal pin (964843) – Tasca
Clutch pedal split pin (664822) – Tasca
?” steel plate for pedal modification – eBay
M8 washers for PP spacing- Fastenal
6003-2RS bearing – Fastenal (replacement pilot bearing)
As other have noted, the dowel pin locations on a flat flywheel need to be moved in order to use the Viggen PP on a flat flywheel. I had a local machine shop take care of this work. The dowel pin holes in the PP also needed to be opened up slightly.
(blue = bolt locations, red = old dowel locations, green = new dowel locations)
I used M8 washers to space the PP out from the flywheel ~1.5mm. The SM9721 clutch disc measures ~232mm (9.125”) and a leaves about 1-2mm between the OD of the disc and the outer cover of the PP, however it works fine.
I spaced the pivot ball out ~15mm and did not need to use the allen bolt modification on the clutch fork. I installed the clutch fork / TOB in the bellhousing and bolted that to the engine a few times in order to establish how much pivot ball spacing I needed.
The initial setting of the slave cylinder allowed ~1/2” additional compression and ~1” of extension. The clutch engages/disengages in the top ? of the pedal stroke.
I also replaced the Mustang pilot bearing with a 6003-2RS sealed ball bearing. I was not having any issues with the Mustang pilot bearing, but the sealed ball bearing should last longer than the unsealed needle bearing.
I modified the clutch pedal by extending it ~2.5” and adding a tab to push on the master cyl piston. The center-to-center distance of the tab holes is 2.5” and the center of the smaller tab hole is aligned with the centerline of the clutch pedal arm. I ordered the misc OE hardware to attach the pedal to the clutch master mainly just b/c it was inexpensive and could still be ordered through Tasca (although it did require a special order and 4wk wait), although you could easily use an M8 bolt here.
While I had things apart I installed 2 3/8-16 rivet nuts for the rear-most trans crossmember attachment points as my original solution was not ideal.
Clutch pedal is noticeably lighter than it was with the cable. I believe this is driven mostly by the pressure plate being a larger OE unit and not a stiffer upgraded aftermarket unit vs anything related to the hydraulic system. My cable clutch setup engaged at the bottom ? of the pedal stroke, so it took a bit to get used to the new characteristics of the clutch pedal engagement, but after a few miles it was fine.