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1981 262C windshield replacement/re-sealing

y-bot

New member
Joined
Mar 21, 2009
Location
Portland, Oregon, USA
My car leaks from the windshield and rear window. The guy I'm talking to about fixing it says according to his computer the windshield is standard 240 and can be replaced with the newer style (667 I think he said) windshield. Anyone know for sure if this is correct or not? My glass is fine but I don't mind getting a new one if it fits. On the rear he is just going to re-seal using newer "glue" or whatever seal they use. I have an appointment tomorrow so hopefully someone can chime in ASAP. Thanks for your help!

y-bot
 
They are not the same as regular 240/260 glass, If he is going to remove it he had better be careful as he will be hunting forever to find one if he cracks it, I can tell you they are not the same, I have 2 of these cars.
 
They are not the same as regular 240/260 glass, If he is going to remove it he had better be careful as he will be hunting forever to find one if he cracks it, I can tell you they are not the same, I have 2 of these cars.

I have an extra windshield that I think is correct. Hopefully he can remove and replace it without damage.
 
Billy is right, the windshields are certainly not the same. The physical size and the curvature are both different. You might ask him if there is a listing for an 80 if they don't list the 262C in 81. I know 80-81 had the same windshield, but I'm not sure if that's the same one used on the vinyl top models in 78-79. As I recall the trim is different, but i bet the glass is the same.

Have you seen any of this person's work? Even to reseal the rear window they will need to remove trim that can be easily bent and replacements are hard to find. I'd make sure I was dealing with a skilled installer and a reputable place with a good warranty.

Let me know how it turns out. I may need my rear glass resealed some day after I paint the roof.
 
It's a friend of a customer at my work. I'm not familiar with his work. He said he's taken a class in installing butyrate or whatever it's called but it sounds like he doesn't like doing it.

y-bot
 
If he has "taken a class" on how to do this process and you are not familiar with his work,
I wouldn't let him within 10 feet of the car if you don't want the potential for damage/continued leaks/needing to look for expensive pieces of glass. I do auto restoration and fabrication for a living, and finding a glass guy that is prepared to deal with older cars and especially older foreign cars is sometimes tricky. Good luck.
 
1248918 windshield for the 262C with smoky stripe.
1248917 regular windshield with tinted glass.

It's got it's own part number. So I'd beware about that piece of glass breaking when removing it. It's very easy to break these glued in windshields when removing them. So proceed with caution as mentioned.
 
The old windshields and back glass were held in with Butyl, that is what you want it reset in as well as it easier to remove and not break the glass.
The glass is the same 77-81 sometimes they look them up as a regular 262 which throws them for a loop.
Keep in mind that if he breaks it you will hunt and pay a ton of money for one. I dont belive that you can even get the glass new.
 
When I had my 02 S60 something hit the right rear window and cracked it. I went to the largest and best glass company here. I walked into the place, and a young woman behind the counter asked if she could help me. While I was giving her my info I noticed an older man (about 60) go outside. He returned and asked me what happened to the window, I told him I did not know. Then he asked me why the window had not fallen out. I told him it was safety glass. He did not believe me, I had to roll down the window and show him that it was indeed two pieces of glass with a film between them just like a windshield. Later I found out he was the owner of the glass company, and had never seen safety glass in the side windows of a car.
They replaced the glass. Next time I had a passenger in the back seat I had to let them out as the door would not open from the inside. A couple months had passed between the glass replacement and the door not opening from the inside.
A couple months latter I had the car at the dealer and asked them to see why it would not open. They looked at it and came back to me asking who had been inside the door? I told them I had the glass replaced. The dealer had to replace the entire inner door trim as the glass dealer broke the interior handle to cable fastening system and the only way to fix it was replace the entire door trim which was very expensive. Lucky for me the dealer turned it in as a warranty repair,(it cost over $500).
Most glass company's and body shops don't know jack about Volvos.
Many glass company's use reciop saws to remove windshields. They are not in the business of removing windshields without breaking them. Nor do their employs care about the car they are working on.
Before you let them work on your car get a written estimate for the replacement of the windshield. Then when they break the old one taking it out, and find out they were wrong about the 240 glass fitting your car they can pay the difference. One more thing, do you have another car to drive while they order in the correct glass for your car?
 
I just talked to him again and now he figured out he can't get a windshield so he is going to remove, clean and re-seal it for me. He's the owner of the business so I think he should know what he is doing. I have what I believe is another 262C windshield and back window that someone gave me when they saw my car at RSI. I do have another car to drive so no worries if it takes awhile to fix. He seems to want to use something other than butyl to mount it. Is there a good reason you needs to use it? Wish me luck!

y-bot
 
All I can say is I would not jump blindly into this one, could be painful.
He probally wants to use urethane which is fine as well, just tougher to cut out later...................
 
I just talked to him again and now he figured out he can't get a windshield so he is going to remove, clean and re-seal it for me. He's the owner of the business so I think he should know what he is doing. I have what I believe is another 262C windshield and back window that someone gave me when they saw my car at RSI. I do have another car to drive so no worries if it takes awhile to fix. He seems to want to use something other than butyl to mount it. Is there a good reason you needs to use it? Wish me luck!

y-bot
I was talking about it when I helped the glass guy put in the ES windshield.
Butyl Flex is messy that's why they don't like it.
I would tape off anything that you don't want it on.
Have plenty of rags and wax and grease remover handy.
They aren't too hard to take out on a hot day,but that's when the Butyl Flex is stringiest and messiest.
 
Yeah, the spare windows I have still have that crap all over them so I'm familiar with it's messiness. Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it.

y-bot
 
Do It Yourself

http://www.technologylk.com/crl-3m-automotive-bedding-and-glazing-sealant-lk-3M8509.htm?src=froogle
Pick a warm day in the sun for best results.
Cut all the way around the window twice with a paring knife or similar thin bladed knife.
Push the top out slowly and evenly about 2 or 3 inches with your feet as your helper continues to cut the goo.
Go back out and with your helper,lift the window straight up along it's vertical axis.
If you continue to tip it out it will bind at the lower corners and crack.
The windshield guys here aren't allowed to take them out intact for liability reasons.fwiw
Plus they work fast,won't take the time or wait for it to be masked off,don't want to waste time cleaning up the butyl strands,and will often build leaks when working with unfamiliar materials that they don't want to work with in the first place.
 
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So the guy came yesterday and removed/cleaned/re-sealed my back window and didn't see any evidence that the leak was coming from there. He didn't do anything to the windshield. What are other possible trunk leaking points? The trunk seal is newish. There are some rust bubbles where the roof meets the body. Can water make it to the trunk somehow from there?

y-bot
 
No pictures but it doesn't sound right.
The trunk needs to be adjusted right to seal in any case.
I would toothbrush some silicone spray on the seal to feed and soften it as well.
Good luck.
Water always wins in the end.
As we say in carpentry;
Never build a vessel unless you are making a boat or a flat roof.
Even a flat roof has a drain,and a boat has a bilge pump.
 
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