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1991 740 pickup LR4 V8/4L60e Swap

Nice work as usual.... any recommendations for MIG welding of SS pipe? I did the system on my Cheap Thrills Sedan, just can recall that another inert gas was recommended as well as the special wire. My Millermatic 175 had no problem welding those thin wall pipes, but the welds were butt ugly. Given your background & experience, I'm betting you know the preferred method.

When is that LS conversion coming?
 
Nice work as usual.... any recommendations for MIG welding of SS pipe? I did the system on my Cheap Thrills Sedan, just can recall that another inert gas was recommended as well as the special wire. My Millermatic 175 had no problem welding those thin wall pipes, but the welds were butt ugly. Given your background & experience, I'm betting you know the preferred method.

When is that LS conversion coming?
Hello! I only ever TIG SS piping, so unfortunately I can't offer any advice on using the MIG. It's been over a year since I did any TIG work, so my welds aren't pretty - also I find it MUCH easier to butt-weld piping vs. overlap. The pipes I bought are designed to be slid over, so I'm getting practice on that. My problem is that I can run out of patience, and then I just forget to keep the tip clean & end up with messier welds - so I'm also working on being more patient, and grinding the tungsten more often.

The LS. At this point, I'nm doing the short block in the old 240 first, should be in the next week or so - once that is gone, I'm bringing the truck back in to remove the Volvo drivetrain. I'm assuming I'll be done in time fro Carlisle Import Show, I certainly hope so anyway.
 
More work on the exhaust today, the details are taking longer to resolve than I anticipated - getting the hangers and muffler / pipe offset just so has been laborious, however I don't want to hear any knocks or rattles, so it is what it is

Worked on the rear muffler suspension first. Shaped an SS pin to conform to the backside inner of the muffler, drilled the spare well & made a tie plate with M8 pins to bolt it in place
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Bent, cut & welded a pin to the muffler
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The muffler is heavy, and since the hangers are diagonally opposite, I'm adding a third at the back to keep it balanced evenly
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OEM Volvo Trailer hitch installed at this point - to make sure the exhaust clears. Have to mod the rear valance & reinstall, after I fix a couple of mount points
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Had to tap the captive nuts first
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Had to dig through my Volvo hardware to find 8 suitable length M12x1.75 bolts - the frame rail is relatively shallow - so they have to be just long enough to properly anchor the hitch
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Rear muffler clearance off the floor is good
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Made a hanger mount to replace the factory inboard muffler hanger, bent & welded a pin to the resonator . May or may not need to add an outer.
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More exhaust work - finally getting close to completion of the rear half
Made a hanger for the forward outer hanger - the plate is cut from a X1/9 bumper bracket, had the same bolt spacing
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Made a tie plate for the rearmost muffler hanger set through from the cargo floor
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After several removals & refitting, I got the exhaust cut to the correct length to allow space for the muffler VBand - tacked here
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Still have to seam weld this
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Tailpipe tacked
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welded
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for the VBand, the exhaust, although spec'd at 2.5", it's actually slighter over, so I had to make a narrow spacer sleeve to make sure the vBand were properly aligned with the pipes
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Sleeve tacked so it doesn't potentially rattle DTR
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Hopefully wrap this up in the AM
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Hitch spec plate 6820185 - 2" ball
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Hitch pin needs to be over 4" If I can't locate one, I'll drill this bar stock for a clevis pin
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Modified the rear valance for the hitch, and made a 9/16" x 4.25" hitch pin
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cutting the valance - I had marked & worked out from the center, but it's actually offset :(
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Cut too much off the left side due to measuring from center (above)
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original attachments still accessible (somewhat)
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Re-drilled this one to the left side
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After that, I fifnshed up the exhaust welding & install
bridge section to join old exhaust (that will go away with V8) with new exhaust
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overlap welds getting cleaner
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all installed & aligned nicely
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Reattached the handbrake, and put the console back together
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spare & jack holder back in
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Going back in time - I had questions about wiring the PNP range switch
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- Brendon from LT1swap.com found the wiring diagram I needed to know to figure out which wires go where. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 are what I need from the above connector

View attachment 30744

Looked at the range switch wiring again - I believe I will need all 9 wires - the 5 range wires, then the other 4 are for reverse lights and start inhibitor
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Just to update this so I don't lose track - I determined the interface wiring with the Volvo harness
PXL_20260217_155900011.jpg
 
OK. Driveshaft mods under way.
Ford Sport Trac 8.8 3:73 LSD rear ordered Griffin bracket kit, ordered. That will be for DTR - the conversion has already been delayed numerous times, so once I get the factory drivetrain pulled (looking at beginning of March) - I don't want more delays.
I'm going to separate the engine /trans & fix the trans harness plug leak, bought a kit for that. While it's apart, I'll do the F&R tranny seals.
I have a BTR torque cam kit. rear main, front cover, crank damper, etc., to all go in before I place it in the body, so ideally, I'll get that squared away in the next couple weeks.
Also have a few rust areas in the nose/battery tray areas to address while I'll have access. Also planning on making the headlamp sections detachable panels for more room. I saw someone with a later V90 make it a one piece removal, but those don't have the removable fiber center panel.

I'm kinda sick today, so I took the time to index/summarize the thread in the first post.
 
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Nice! Width correct for the 7/9 ? Planning to adapt the Ovlov brakes or run the Fords' out back?
 
Nice! Width correct for the 7/9 ? Planning to adapt the Ovlov brakes or run the Fords' out back?
It's useable width - I'm not going to shorten the left to center the diff - I have had advice that on a 700 it's better to work with the diff offset. No issues with the caliper clearance off the frame rails that way. I haven't made any decisions on rear brakes yet. I think I want something a little larger than the Volvo. Prolly look through the Ford offerings. The 2014 Mustang caliper I used on the 280Z have handbrake levers, but so do P1's. I'll have to do research on that - I want a working handbrake.

I ordered a 1310 2-2-1379 flange yoke to be able to convert the Volvo DS to the Ford rear, using the stock size UJoint (1220786, for 3.5" yoke)
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Giffin brackets for Ford8.8-into 700/900 arrived. Panhard rod standoff seems kinda sloppy, I may want top tidy up the welds/finish. No question it's functional though.
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Been working on a 940 this week. Leaks all over.
Rear main.
Trans mount
Trans pan & filter
Downpipe O2 bung
Broken hot side stud
Fuel pump & filter mount
DS carrier & bearing
Water Pump & Radiator
AC condensor

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Flywheel orientation @ TDC
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last one in here threw away the shields
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Found a shield on a trans output flange that has the same ID as the DS shaft - ground down the OD to clear the rubber & pressed it in
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The last one in here decided a glove was the way to secure the fuel filer in place
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Replaced the feed line with proper sleeved Volvo line
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Fabricated new mount plate & filter bracket
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back on the car
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Volvo pump with integrated weep tank
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