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1993 b230, 8 pole male wiring firewall

Joined
Apr 15, 2023
Hey everyone,

I put a 93 b230 in my RHD 240 sedan. This is a 85 model I believe. Used to have b200 kjet

Now there's a grey male 8 point connector plug by the firewall. Goes to starter and such.
Now my 93 b230 doesn't have this connector on the harness. Ive managed to find 4 of these wires and hooked them up, so she'll crank,

But no spark or fuel. I'm assuming because Im missing the other 2 or 3 wires in this plug. But I can't find them on the harness and can't find a diagram,

Has anyone done this before and had this issue?

Thanks y'all
 
IIRC none of those wires are needed for the engine to run other than the starter wire. You might have the wrong ignition switch. The lh2.4 engine harness uses a brown ignition switch that powers the blue wire on pin 15 that goes to the ignition coil both in the running key position and while cranking. A quick way to test if this is your issue would be to run a jumper wire from the battery to the ignition coil positive terminal. You should also check if you can hear the fuel pumps prime when you turn the car on.

I found this page on Dave Bartons website showing the function of the wires in the gray connectors for different 240s and it looks like none of them should be needed for your new engine to run. https://www.davebarton.com/pdf/harness_firewall_loom_repair_240t.pdf

The wire colors on the LH2.4 harness should be:
Red-alternator
Black-oil pressure switch
Yellow/blue-starter
Yellow-engine temp gauge
 
Hey everyone,

I put a 93 b230 in my RHD 240 sedan. This is a 85 model I believe. Used to have b200 kjet

Now there's a grey male 8 point connector plug by the firewall. Goes to starter and such.
Now my 93 b230 doesn't have this connector on the harness. Ive managed to find 4 of these wires and hooked them up, so she'll crank,

But no spark or fuel. I'm assuming because Im missing the other 2 or 3 wires in this plug. But I can't find them on the harness and can't find a diagram,

Has anyone done this before and had this issue?

Thanks y'all
What ECU you are using? LH from 93?
 
Thanks guys, great help so far!

I also discovered the white 9 pin male connector coming from engine going into cabin, I've read this is one of my problems too,
The 9 pin plug is on the 93" engine harness, but not on my 89 chassis,
Well there's a plug like it, but different wires and it's already plugged into something else.
Anyhow, these 9 wires, I've found what they are for on the forums and such, pretty important stuff.
but I have not been able to find where in the cabin, these 9 wires are then supposed to go to.
 

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Okey but if my chassis harness doesn't have this plug, because it's an older model. How and where do I find these wires in my cabin to match the ones in the plug
 
 
I put a 93 b230 in my RHD 240 sedan. This is a 85 model I believe. Used to have b200 kjet
I also discovered the white 9 pin male connector coming from engine going into cabin, I've read this is one of my problems too,
The 9 pin plug is on the 93" engine harness, but not on my 89 chassis,
I'm confused. The 9-pin plug is usually for ~89 LH2.4. '85 K-Jet has different plugs. And a '93 LH2.4 harness would usually have a 12-pin (one empty) plug, or a long skinny 24-pin plug (multiple empty). Or at least in the USA for LHD models.

I'd suggest looking at the harness pictures on Dave's website: https://www.prancingmoose.com/volvoharnesses.html#240series and see if you can identify the harness that plugs into your 9-pin plug.
 
Okey as I was reading all of this, and after going over all the harnesses they made for these, it appears my engine is indeed a 89-90 and not a 93.
So now that mystery is solved.

Where do those 9 wires now go to. I know what they are all for. But not where they're supposed to go
 
Take a look at the drawing here: https://turbobricks.com/index.php?t...res-to-make-it-run.230687/page-3#post-4932320
and post back which wire colors match yours. Do you have a VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor in your rear differential, or alternately, do you have an electronic speedometer (instead of a mechanical cable driven one)? You probably don't have a check engine light in your K-Jet cluster.

Edit: a few more questions:
- manual or automatic transmission?
- A/C ?
- O2 sensor type and location? (1-wire in exhaust manifold/downpipe or 3-wire under car)

The 2 wires that are essential to get it to run are:
1 blue : switched +12v from ignition switch run+start
7 yel/red-big : +12v to fuse 4 and to main fuel pump, from system relay 87/2

You may also need to run blue power to the ignition coil, depending on your engine harness/wiring.
 
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Okey so I looked at the drawing from the other thread. Got a little wiser. But still not running.

So I don't have a speed sensor in my rear differential, but also don't think that would keep it from running. Not sure if my cluster is cable driven or electric. I think electric since it 1990.


It's a manual M46-OD, not hooked up yet, but that's what I'll be using.
-No AC for this car
-02 sensor I'm not sure of, it's not in the exhaust. Also don't see that 3wire you mentioned, So would that then be lambda sensor ?.
Ill look into that. I put my b200 kjet head onto my b230. So I assume It has a lambda sensor in it already.

The blue wire that came from the 9 pole male plug. I hooked up to my blue wire coming from my grey 8pole plug by the firewall in engine bay, to my knowledge, ignition switch. This then goes to my ecu-35 and then ezk 6, (from top of my head)

To my knowledge, the big red/yel wire I hooked up to fuse 4. And I wired the old (kjet fuel pump relay ) into my white fuel pump relay that's on the lh2.4 harness.

Yesterday my pump worked for a little as I was messing with wires and key positions, but now it won't to anything. Might have broke the fuel pump relay in the process not sure.

My coil I getting power. But isn't sparking.
Injectors still not going. I'm sure I'm missing little things. But I've started at at diagrams and wiring for more than 10 hours, still can't figure it out

I thought it might be my flywheel sensor that went bad. It's a 3 wire sensor, so I tried to check if it was still working. And I didn't even get a constant 12v reading to any of these 3 wires, so not sure if a wire went bad. Or if Its something else that causes my flywheel sensor not to have power.

Thanks
 
I'm on my lunchbreak, but I'll check my notes and replay in more detail tonight.

Manual and no A/C means that you don't need to connect the 2x A/C wires, and the Park/Neutral wire, from the 9-pin engine harness - they're all associated with increasing idle speed to handle the A/C or Park-to-Drive engine load changes.

O2 sensor is the Lambda sensor. In the US, the original K-Jet ones had a single wire and were located near the exhaust manifold for quick heating. Later LH ones moved down the exhaust pipe next to the muffler/catalytic converter. These changed to 3 wires, with the extra 2 wires being used as a Heater for the sensor -- until it heats up, it doesn't work. The LH harness has a 1-wire O2 Sensor connector and a 2-wire O2 Heater connector next to each other. If your O2 sensor is near the exhaust manifold, you don't need the heater, and don't need to connect the thin yellow/red wire on the 9-pin.

I'll check my notes, but you should bypass/remove the original K-Jet fuel pump relay -- the new LH2.4 relay (by the ECU/EZK connectors) provides the same functions. The original K-Jet relay has a safety feature where it needs to detect ignition spark (via red/white coil wire) before it will turn on. This may be causing problems depending on how you've rewired it.

The flywheel sensor generates it's own small voltage (less than a volt during cranking). There are 2 wires across the sensor (it's a "VR" Variable Reluctance magnetic coil sensor), plus a 3rd wire to shield the signal from electrical noise.

What is the number on the bottom of you speedo? In the US, it's something like r0,960 for mechanical cable driven speedos, and K9042 for electrical speedos.
 
I couldn't find my notes on how exactly I ended up connecting the blue wire in the 9-pin connector. It needs to come from the ignition switch(15), or the KJet FP relay/15 red-blk wire, or the back side of fuse 11,12,13.

The coil AND ignition amplifier module, also need switched +12V connected to the above blue wire. My '85 K-Jet used TranSistoriZed ignition with a ballast resistor. The original coil got power through a brown wire from the ballast resistor. This needs to be replaced. (I used a LH2.4 coil, but the original K-Jet coil would probably work).

The original K-Jet blue wire in the 2x4 bulkhead connector comes from the K-Jet fuel pump relay, and can't be used if the K-Jet relay is still in the circuit (the K-Jet relay needs to see spark before it turns on).

LH2.4, depending on the ECU version, turns the pumps on briefly before starting, but then leaves them off until it detects cranking.

Does your harness include the LED diagnostic box? If so, do you get a 1-1-1 from socket 2 (ECU) and socket 6 (EZK) when you push the diag button with key on?

Another one to check is use a test light on coil power to battery ground. It should light brightly with key on AND during cranking.
 
I couldn't find my notes on how exactly I ended up connecting the blue wire in the 9-pin connector. It needs to come from the ignition switch(15), or the KJet FP relay/15 red-blk wire, or the back side of fuse 11,12,13.

The coil AND ignition amplifier module, also need switched +12V connected to the above blue wire. My '85 K-Jet used TranSistoriZed ignition with a ballast resistor. The original coil got power through a brown wire from the ballast resistor. This needs to be replaced. (I used a LH2.4 coil, but the original K-Jet coil would probably work).

The original K-Jet blue wire in the 2x4 bulkhead connector comes from the K-Jet fuel pump relay, and can't be used if the K-Jet relay is still in the circuit (the K-Jet relay needs to see spark before it turns on).

LH2.4, depending on the ECU version, turns the pumps on briefly before starting, but then leaves them off until it detects cranking.

Does your harness include the LED diagnostic box? If so, do you get a 1-1-1 from socket 2 (ECU) and socket 6 (EZK) when you push the diag button with key on?

Another one to check is use a test light on coil power to battery ground. It should light brightly with key on AND during cranking.
Thanks for all your help,
I'm gonna work on it a bit this week. See if i can get it going.

So I've wired the old relay wiring. Into the lh2.4 relay,
Blue/red goes to red/yel
Red goes to red
And red yellow (old relay) goes to orange wire
The white/red from the old relay don't have hooked up, could this be why my coil has power, but isn't sparking?
 
In the USA, 1985 was the last year of K-Jet, and it was only in the Turbo 240s. Here's a marked up page from the 1985 US Wiring Greenbook (TP30808-1) showing how to wire the LH2.4 9-pin harness connector into the existing K-Jet wiring, and which K-Jet components/wires are removed:

K-Jet to LH2.4 Wiring.PNG
How does this compare to what you're doing?
 
In the USA, 1985 was the last year of K-Jet, and it was only in the Turbo 240s. Here's a marked up page from the 1985 US Wiring Greenbook (TP30808-1) showing how to wire the LH2.4 9-pin harness connector into the existing K-Jet wiring, and which K-Jet components/wires are removed:

View attachment 21799
How does this compare to what you're doing?
I have done exactly that. But injectors not working, coil no spark.

I'm using the old kjet ignition coil. Is the 2 rd-wt wire on the coil, is the same red and white wire on the original kjet fuel pump relay? And if so, do i need to ground this?
 
Leave the red-white wire unconnected where the K-Jet relay used to be, or cut it off and tape (or heatshrink) the end. If you have a dashboard tach, you still need the red-white wire from the coil to the tach. The ignition module/ignition amplifier connects to the coil with a red-white wire (- terminal) and a blue wire (+ terminal, switched +12v)
 
Let's assume that you've done the rewiring correctly, but have no spark.
- Was the donor engine and ECU, EZK, CPS, and Ignition Amplifier (or Ignition Module, Ignitor) fully running before the swap?
- We'll assume the 60-2 tooth flywheel is OK - if it was mis-positioned, you have spark but in the wrong position.
- After cranking, do you get a 1-1-1 diag code on socket 6 (EZK)?
- What are the voltages on the Ignition Amplifier pins with key on?
- If you have a spare CPS and a spare Ignition Amplifier, you could try swapping those. Both are good spares to keep in the trunk anyway since a failure can leave you stranded.
 
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