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1994 945 Turbo Ultimate DD Build

A chip in my windshield finally split so I cut it out and replaced it with Fuyao aftermarket, the glass was $119. It actually looks really good optically (distortion is a common problem with aftermarket windshields).

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Superb stuff. That V90 armrest is a nice find, I've been on the hunt with no luck. Have you considered a snow cap (3529534) on the cowl vent? It's easy to obtain a glass fiber replica these days. Finishing the look with some 18x6mm plastic honeycomb mesh will protect from debris and has a nice factory job look.
 
Continental drift said:
Superb stuff. That V90 armrest is a nice find, I've been on the hunt with no luck. Have you considered a snow cap (3529534) on the cowl vent? It's easy to obtain a glass fiber replica these days. Finishing the look with some 18x6mm plastic honeycomb mesh will protect from debris and has a nice factory job look.
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Thank you! I lucked out and found the armrest on eBay for about $100

I do like the snow caps, but only when they're painted to match.
 
Big(ger) turbo time! I have been planning a turbo swap for a while since I've suspected the old 13C of consuming oil. I decided to source a used 16T with a 7cm^2 angled housing. Got a good deal on one from swedishiron (thanks johnathan)! I was afraid the 16T was going to be unsatisfactory so I also sourced a 9 blade turbine wheel for better exhaust flow and a 20T compressor housing with an 11 blade billet wheel. The TD04HL-20T was used on SRT4 Dodge turbos for a while and should be capable of 300+ hp.

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Rebuilt the turbo before installation. Plenty of info out there on how to do these, it's very straight forward. A lot of people say they need to be balanced as an assembly, but I could find no information from mitsubishi to back up that claim. Even the genuine TD04 rebuild manual mentions nothing about balancing. These are small frame turbos with very journal bearings supporting the shaft as outward as possible, which is why I believe you can get away with not balancing them (fingers crossed :lol:)

The compressor and turbine wheels are balance individually, I simply lined up the balancing mark on the compressor wheel with the ground portion of the turbine nut.

Here's a comparison between the 16T cast wheel assembly and the 20T billet wheel assembly. The 20T wheel actually weighs slightly more than 16T wheel but the 9 blade turbine is substantially lighter and makes the assembly lighter overall. Also note how much slimmer the 20T wheel at the root, where the turbine shaft comes through (more airflow).

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The 20T wheel has the same exducer size as the 19T, which is 2mm larger than the 16T. (58mm vs. 56mm), with the only difference being extended tips on the comp. wheel. I used my "digital" milling machine (aka dremel) to enlarge the recess in the CHRA where the wheel rests.

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16T wheel
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20T wheel
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CHRA embiggened
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the 20T turbine housing is intended for a whiteblock application so I need a solution for mounting the WGA. Instead of using an ugly steel bracket the sticks out like a sore thumb, I decided to weld the mounting lugs on.

I couldn't source aluminum nuts for a reasonable price so I piled on some large beads with a pulsed mig welder. After shaping them and grinding them flat, I drilled and tapped them for the WGA. I added a mounting lug for the oil feed line support as well.

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Time to install!

To mount the angled flange, I opted to install the stud on the rear upper location on the turbine itself, and leave the other 3 on the manifold. Of course the stud broke trying to back it out, but I had to enlarge that hole anyway.

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Depending on your casting, you may need to remove some metal behind the flange so the nut can spin, I did.

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I measured the installed angle of the mounting flange as well as the CHRA so I could put it in the vice and clock it correctly. Approximately 74.3 degrees between the flange of the exhaust housing and the top flat of the CHRA. I eyeballed the compressor housing angle as it isn't nearly as crucial. Measuring the clocking angle off the car worked great and I didn't need to readjust anything.

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Turbo finally ready to go on, here's a shot of the DP flange. I used a salvaged Volvo exhaust flange and removed the original pipe, they weld them from the inside and slightly decrease the opening diameter.
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Turbo is on!

Notes: Before I bolted the oil line on top of the turbo, I pumped a few ounces of oil in it while spinning it by hand so it doesn't run dry on startup. Also removed the #1 fuse and cranked it over for a few bursts of 3-5 seconds to get oil flowing through the turbo.
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Time to fab a new downpipe. I had plenty of leftover pipe from my previous exhaust upgrade but I really could have used another 45 for the lower bend. Instead I had to use a 90 and pie cut it to achieve the proper angle. Clearance with the angled flange was not as difficult as some people have made it sound...

Tacked up
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Welded up with a 3" sprung ball joint (highly recommended, decreased resonance into the cabin greatly). I cut off the tab from the original DP and welded it to the 3" pipe where it's supported near the transmission. NBO2 welded in the factory location and WBO2 welded on top for ease of service. (Yeah it's too close to the turbo blah blah blah, I'll let you know when it dies)
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And that's it! Ready for a drive :cool:
 
Great build! My 940 turbo has high miles but I?ve been following a similar route, 16t and all, so it will be exciting to follow along
 
First impressions:

It looks like it's running out of injector at 8 psi (S60R green giants/E85) vs. plenty of fuel with 15psi on the 13C. I swapped back to my 525cc injectors and after about 50 miles of ECU relearning I felt comfortable turning the boost back up.

15psi doesn't feel much like much more power

20psi feels like an entirely different car, it even chirps the tires when the boost peaks :lol:

The spool is noticeably slower from a stop (probably due to the different wheels rather than the slightly larger wheel sizes) but is excellent for highway passing and rolling starts.

Intake temp seems to be about 10-20F cooler at 20psi vs 15psi from the 13C

I'm planning on visiting the dyno shop as soon as possible to see how much boost pressure I can run before the turbo runs out of steam.
 
Bonus update: Pulled of my headlight lenses, sanded them with 320 to 800 grit and had my painter friend reclear them as well as prime/paint my headlight surrounds. Looks soooooo much better!

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PNW760 said:
Great build! My 940 turbo has high miles but I?ve been following a similar route, 16t and all, so it will be exciting to follow along
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Thank you! Mine is over 240k now, but the compression tests well so hopefully it still has plenty of life left in the engine. I would like to find a longblock to build up on a stand so I have a solid engine ready when/if the time comes.
 
threewagons said:
Thank you! Mine is over 240k now, but the compression tests well so hopefully it still has plenty of life left in the engine. I would like to find a longblock to build up on a stand so I have a solid engine ready when/if the time comes.
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I?m much higher at 336k, and while I have really great PCV, I need to run a leak down test during my next oil change to make sure everything is in order. It would suck to toss a bigger turbo on only to blow my head gasket a few miles later
 
PNW760 said:
I?m much higher at 336k, and while I have really great PCV, I need to run a leak down test during my next oil change to make sure everything is in order. It would suck to toss a bigger turbo on only to blow my head gasket a few miles later
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Probably not a bad idea. I cleaned all my IC pipes and hoses when I got the car and the oil accumulation 5k+ later is almost zero, so I think my rings are still pretty tight.
 
PNW760 said:
I?m much higher at 336k, and while I have really great PCV, I need to run a leak down test during my next oil change to make sure everything is in order. It would suck to toss a bigger turbo on only to blow my head gasket a few miles later
Click to expand...

Don't let milage stop you! SEND IT
 
here's a video of a pull taken on a closed course :cool:

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