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1998 244 Turbo mystery car leans out

bobxyz

Board Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2014
Location
Boulder CO
I think you're OK with your turbo '518 LH2.2 ECU, your turbo '012 EZ117, and the '124 ignition module. I couldn't find a write-up on converting a EZ116K harness to EZ117K, so I wrote up the below info. Let me know if you try it and how it works out. Better still, take some pictures and add the info to the older conversion thread.

Normally, a 740 EZ117K sub-harness from a LH2.2 740 is used to convert a 240 from Chrysler to EZK ignition - see: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=129382

If a 740 LH2.2 donor harness isn't available, it should be possible to re-pin a more recent EZ116K harness from a LH2.4 740 instead. I haven't tried this myself, so buyer beware.

How to change a 740 EZ116K (LH2.4) sub-harness to a EZ117K (LH2.2) harness for Chrysler to EZ117K ignition conversion

Untape and open up the 25-pin EZK connector - picture shows probing a pin, not pin removal (which is done from the connector face)
EZK-Connector-Disassembly.jpg


To easily remove the pins without damage, you'll need a pin removal tool - just a simple single thin rectangular blade one is fine. You might get away with a flattened paperclip end, or a "T-pin" if you're broke and really desperate.

In listed order, de-pin or move the below pins/wires from the EZ116K connector. Go by the pin number if the wire colors don't match (but post a followup first).
de-pin 1 YEL-RED diag box
de-pin 3 BRN-WHT CEL
de-pin 5 BRN battery +12v
de-pin 14 BLK ground
de-pin 15 RED-GRN EGR
de-pin 22 YEL-BLK EGR Temp
move pin 2 RED-BLK to pin 15
move pin 4 GRY-RED to pin 9 on cars with A/C; on cars without A/C, just de-pin it
move pin 10 RED to pin 4 (may need to cut back hall cable insulation to free up wire length)
move pin 11 BLK to pin 10
move pin 23 BLU to pin 24

When done, you should have the below pinout, which matchs the pins/colors in the main EZ117K conversion thread:
1 NC
2 NC
3 NC
4 RED hall sensor "+"
5 NC
6 BLU switched +12v (also positive terminal on coil, and powerstage pin 4)
7 ORG TPS 3 idle sw
8 YEL load signal from LH2.2 ECU-24
9 GRY-RED A/C compressor on (if you have A/C, empty otherwise)
10 BLK hall sensor "-" (this wire is the bare braided shield on the hall cable run through black heatshrink)
11 NC
12 BLK knock sensor (this wire is the bare braided shield on the knock cable run through black heatshrink)
13 GRN knock sensor
14 NC
15 RED-BLK knock signal to LH2.2 ECU-12
16 GRY (may change to thick BLK wire) spark signal to powerstage pin 5
17 YEL-GRY rpm out to LH2.2 ECU-1
18 NC
19 NC
20 BRN ground to intake manifold (and powerstage pin 2)
21 NC
22 NC
23 NC
24 BLU hall sensor "O" signal
25 NC

Copied from conversion thread:
EZKDiagramFinal2.jpg
 
Joined
Nov 17, 2022
I think you're OK with your turbo '518 LH2.2 ECU, your turbo '012 EZ117, and the '124 ignition module. I couldn't find a write-up on converting a EZ116K harness to EZ117K, so I wrote up the below info. Let me know if you try it and how it works out. Better still, take some pictures and add the info to the older conversion thread.

Normally, a 740 EZ117K sub-harness from a LH2.2 740 is used to convert a 240 from Chrysler to EZK ignition - see: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=129382

If a 740 LH2.2 donor harness isn't available, it should be possible to re-pin a more recent EZ116K harness from a LH2.4 740 instead. I haven't tried this myself, so buyer beware.

How to change a 740 EZ116K (LH2.4) sub-harness to a EZ117K (LH2.2) harness for Chrysler to EZ117K ignition conversion

Untape and open up the 25-pin EZK connector - picture shows probing a pin, not pin removal (which is done from the connector face)
EZK-Connector-Disassembly.jpg


To easily remove the pins without damage, you'll need a pin removal tool - just a simple single thin rectangular blade one is fine. You might get away with a flattened paperclip end, or a "T-pin" if you're broke and really desperate.

In listed order, de-pin or move the below pins/wires from the EZ116K connector. Go by the pin number if the wire colors don't match (but post a followup first).
de-pin 1 YEL-RED diag box
de-pin 3 BRN-WHT CEL
de-pin 5 BRN battery +12v
de-pin 14 BLK ground
de-pin 15 RED-GRN EGR
de-pin 22 YEL-BLK EGR Temp
move pin 2 RED-BLK to pin 15
move pin 4 GRY-RED to pin 9 on cars with A/C; on cars without A/C, just de-pin it
move pin 10 RED to pin 4 (may need to cut back hall cable insulation to free up wire length)
move pin 11 BLK to pin 10
move pin 23 BLU to pin 24

When done, you should have the below pinout, which matchs the pins/colors in the main EZ117K conversion thread:
1 NC
2 NC
3 NC
4 RED hall sensor "+"
5 NC
6 BLU switched +12v (also positive terminal on coil, and powerstage pin 4)
7 ORG TPS 3 idle sw
8 YEL load signal from LH2.2 ECU-24
9 GRY-RED A/C compressor on (if you have A/C, empty otherwise)
10 BLK hall sensor "-" (this wire is the bare braided shield on the hall cable run through black heatshrink)
11 NC
12 BLK knock sensor (this wire is the bare braided shield on the knock cable run through black heatshrink)
13 GRN knock sensor
14 NC
15 RED-BLK knock signal to LH2.2 ECU-12
16 GRY (may change to thick BLK wire) spark signal to powerstage pin 5
17 YEL-GRY rpm out to LH2.2 ECU-1
18 NC
19 NC
20 BRN ground to intake manifold (and powerstage pin 2)
21 NC
22 NC
23 NC
24 BLU hall sensor "O" signal
25 NC

Copied from conversion thread:
EZKDiagramFinal2.jpg

Thank you so much for the write-up, this for real helps out a lot. Everything is ordered or in shipping and I am away for thanksgiving so I can't start on any of it yet. When I get back by the end of the week, I will take photos and notes and start the conversion and post my findings with the other conversion thread you mentioned. Thank you again for doing your research as well as everyone else for their work!
 
Joined
Nov 17, 2022
We "finished" up all the conversion work today but can't get spark to the plugs. The instructions for repinning seemed correct, colors were spot on besides the grey wire which runs to the power stage at pin 5. This wire is grey but it is covered by a large black wire and has the copper running around a separate insulated wire within that bulky black wire. You can tell the wire is grey from the end new the power stage where it pokes out at is grey. The only other problem we ran into was the hall sensor connector being slightly different. The actual plastic connector is slightly different and needed to have the pins removed and placed into the original plastic connector.

Now the problems. We think we wired the hall sensor correctly but are not sure. We tried with the red going to 1, blue to 2, and black to 3 as the transplant hall sensor connector was.
oUXlZvRqS-p3GuqeC_QwXiRJKEMh_OUNf-2OOYpLOyXIKdota4zBQjDjpp_TOfY60y-Q33Z_xCtBVDzF4ZjFcApuc0rm5lbncAw9XR4OMO-M5Gdn1GkjXBtO_FSrx0H-x1cY2OB7H3HktCPBxA6pu2ENarPQ_zM_YOsEdJblVBTCbYtmgsiNfgl7JjtHfaMXNsUn9983M7iIE9lr_X2pITocakLCYkY74rSrPCtZi1lpPoaDhyA3AgcYXnLKS7lqE4K0WJRdezPzHsgak4_K3YZEtfEvlqRSpEUwSTfk1AfTC3ukoxOt2qS4bTPHm5smNKNwOoD8q87xPLKYpCtrEZOcV4KfU9-6VmQpaOSgjkp1QK-iJ5YVrLACTvVTIDZzY7aynLXrmooGpLpouc-mwTqrPwhpc2p75RI6PLw147j0ZC0vInwtX95UZTRMsTupyA7OpqMN4gG-EU18u3Ozw6z1UyZ1420Ds8XzXgF7ZGYzTArDLQnR5X-Nlr5x3Ij0k49QXQSsxy6faCMkID0CnjRf38q1phMqcXDP_8luTiXSzK8zqHFiAtlztDFagucgh8B86tnDuMmGMmqhrBesXOCGcwPkFV3uS-hQkQNdZ2ygCJp8eUU5zQDdeR5JqTjWPOi6z_2_D7yhBW0poCP6PjLTX3ONzocZ9rDfhvCLixBECDOUu-l-tlJ-xodqCk40FADTKG5S4UxOWFzlxRjFuaTa_ZpEVJ32neUY2AuPBp_-UPYTI-uthh2QGNAi2QXemr33ZBWvnZr7PMJEtTWnwH4e4aKHuNPbHPSbbqK_9_ghyYqTanlWCbu6KP8tpCnMs47oC9bBxzdYESMOJWY8tsT8wz1BFY8IoULrwhCtMzan_DtGHYQAVL9UI8tT83IvHZTGbMEqOU9Xv2WJOWf9Z4Nu_79EdB1Y_oXI9_drF0K24Ig3fz_O7KTUguhI2B3npXD0HW5fyem3Ht7e1KjNAA=w1236-h928-no

This didn't work as we were getting solid power to the coil positive BUT also getting solid voltage to the negative terminal instead of fluctuation. We replaced the cap and rotor and it wasn't either of them.
BTW the original hall connector looked as shown below:

DQcYB05L_7TxnDE4bRgReItGPpCoM3zIcI3gsj-753FIaGiNOzeLWHoSe-K9XryeWHGMCYjLIR0JgjhytReHOgF3I1WJmdkA2vrjuRLksB6LRUTwl0MNJKcOH4DLS78NRh0cetEaRNjQWCzyYlk48OGIEpheqpHuES73gRRVol7jJGmZh3lQpsVn4jE32itaAN1yxewzgBZLAEa1O6__F_RJWa_dyKt4O9TemkP5RFN_cTjU8RMxzN_8AGkJrU1o9aR1zOCgYWxzAFEjOkURDyqLSh0e021saQhwdNVjDV1rzMzOnmvspd8Ix0eJQjz8EzY1BiG3THmPL1at5kIA_WSUQ6wZzS0ldJfJMdRNOk-SttvlaAtC660TDky_X1tTg73IBEIx6nw3GIBePjtGlD6y5JylY_B-aK5yIvukDmYx8WkRd9wK1QHkRkNx59qOSHsdRxJ4vtwCHvRM_WXaLq5BlaOf3fWI8-kgTsAo0BYPyzA3dRv_I1Fg21q_9z3k_F4OZ-o2fyoERha8xGZ8mo0yosK_eEthhl7eK1Q_qs_b9HMiAP-2bs_X_H3GESLh2oSyZU0423ynchpWZjoEjQpX11UKbTGcVvkk2jReUuIS0jQpO9yJDS7uVCjmNFJ1DczVdE4YJippScSGBKdoXL1ILF0tz8y5dOwhjrVbuHEbmZFmaBzJ_b8uQsJEBXjHKRH7MTwS-hVOJ55sLVxWvABx37DlOr85QYtCAh-AbGRIuSrbFWlokVcM0IHpq5YRkzhVnN1T_oTGp4EaSj1Zo4XzIn6OG4JmwriQUn_R49NdimAYkmUAvBzIc20IG-BVcVfc2pIYd9I2iTUysO0L01eNzK5EBF4NSTcuYoBInnI1SFAdW5RnCwMcqDAkB0YGcK1KrbNXhvJlomKOA_84XEYRNvKCroryy99FI1sXuQs8h5pfEEQzJIglmfmfXmVwf20STnQqDGRz5xmKVrcdbg=w1236-h928-no


We then tried swapping the black and the red because we found a diagram deep on the internet of the opposite order as shown below:

PAS3gDWEFirvMi4Xg0Cu3W9wM4DB3FK7JwjkbY1juo5FW_FObZCeOCKFgZ1k6ZpskZVw9S_D0Jb1LsKbr3F2VCxledAHIFQjUeTT2D-VR05COOLFIpRhVYX-Ehbx2SlSMK2QLcaUBXTxkM4ZCCBvCBu4DVOKSBCWyzPaS0KGtkB9LFpLECPjAcjNP-Pt85ym5kEvXpKqkq5QCD1Mc_c7o3a6iEOjVLZ9zP9Q1fU_gKdsdpG0FfLppTbo-2sIjvmEMvmBZVLEmcUJMCHhszRunf22MNkJb3e9YwEl8BWQ6DinmaXzywvQ5lRgu9sRRt_ePmTrtQPMm0R1NVOBo6oWp7cj63RsDdkPgufRBFcckNMhYexQ7T7Lrfm5COwZfQxh4xGcq9hrV5rDRl1lfeTm6Nd40oYs_I-yauOWEpH2zBrONT4ATjzt0Frj2WP83-U6xDXzbJkCiKBYUqgO_IxOlX8lijynpHzImwlOOsBIdgUfoglfjUdHyxuN0z0mhqEHsUQ4mmy5o76JA0Oz2PkIARIuX4pGpiBfLp7CjSoucQl35oIaMCJv0oVeIkcv_ID2IhELJe_v7ldHNnmek-m_5PYBHxBD6ytAN6JNe-wiOW_IH8mXgTMQXKdunsFHL2i899lMRzwbnBOI6zq-e8UCt9vAlkWCuuLa4zowa2Yih-gZotzDCGwQ9jsJA77YqpXt4vafBbR96bDBq02kJEWX9f27-FdecQifouiezyYLtUWXxk_14dcWV6adXb4vpjWctObcSsUFArivN1S5SfqwuJvBDvK57MYjZ5IvxwP8mmOu2H8czXWx9_fwk1zEGaNOM8WVkd3Y9BTOys8_9eqxTCCEnCCDL92OZTRBimtspMvPty0a35Xtz2NQQ-eLFoi2JFg8EIB06NKgH91sD0RpqDcHF5CW9CfPrTseplS0kOjOsOf2nXMXZ3DJ0xD5D6yoThSwQeC_iZWYSnLoYL4eOg=w696-h927-no

The hall sensor connector on the distributor looks as shown tho idk if this matters:
Su5e_TrjpCnHaZBxYW9eCNiowopYO_5aINV7xOdDgbmXI0ppGZXqm72aAoPLSM2m42D1PkRkg2I2S7swCxTREDlRuaN_qkauCyubtUM4gEeXCAmrAJT0kzLlYMnZAyqxOFasFxd4HwvZW21jdy_rN_Q0uz9xp5ozwaV9EECQ5iPjokcRRy8lANOSAlGbOsBo14Nw3KuuWH0oH3vFLkGXtZnHMA8kde291-It7sSfXbSEWvbsTXO_CA1pM0MgtgbdDEo_4_7rcg7U4ALh_nLTsxUblheLQ3Qftz_1icKLA6gil9ZCoJnLFTgzkdVzBmsoTIp2bo7AyIamMJX44ZIBGKLCfx2Mu_tUBF_YpZCBFHdtRT9aUqJtSykQJhxNnslF-ihBFZ8xQtMMKn8Iia5ljtDNKov4Fu9_3nZc-tWk7TgcMUc9P_IcIP5kTvszaeH2vt34X4LIvUP8slXSwWrmheZnjCiROCuJUHwOGRctkrYBwY_dPl_sJQivPf13GHOde73NVOaZ2Wj_uWqhMskOSN1D9cYfIFdhFuDVTJ5KYLHrHOO2ZVOtnbDqRN4Ahbu16CBi1AEn7ncGWSIUPDeeJrDF7PmkZ3_ZjHXhF4MhGFFCAghD8xereXvI-CyJfCs55d9OwXa6UB_9hlGGwhR8veZlyvzvQYkfr_J4RPbgkvklxtgr2aaej0XyJtLHWZX1k53IWv5c4nd7JCYISCeEapiDz3Ds5ZUSw3l_bdFLzbvWeZQqpwENa1IayqspfOkvC26U127zQQs_sENvJSxOerE1nf1iWZfaQCq0Kg0-J3UeEyAiFNGotXD6QZG6o_y9woZpKC1npAFL3AMD06lNVnexmffKshnaVjqxlPPs4vr7ZyzpGF7lr3mjePoiIcBshKhi5u1aA1xF3soNwuSmCnj0hqzSt10h8X1OhFsy0KmUeHwe09kGVwTi29aPf8BBBspyq0aG-G8TPIIrtYjrYA=w696-h927-no


Does anyone know the correct wiring for the hall sensor? Also What else could stop it from sparking to the plugs? We Think all the wires are pinned as described above and by the thread https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=129382 .This is the wiring to our coil:
cQIXfkoTWAaHI_zGapvafssl7jj7ZH-DJsgEhzYq7lycXtpziWHA4s3VxDtjKESibpFQ910HAT_bGdOZprerU_XUERaehufPc7yqO-h7UxDrXDsq9Jl5xcaM9F4R78qqS8UDC4MITzt_ff_mZMZ5CqRr7bdrvdpHckQyaF-JO9DJ0hsWOUxW3760a29lM063FUyv52JhL2T-Dnnu6fbO57Kwrj7w6cBXlcQ04BI7jKOacxEi00XNdKvqExHgjct79-11Z0AMLpej2h7ihCPcoCN3NU83E1qj-r8Qy-trcLrUeX7jeA6X3kVF9gc0g5F1mx1qVIUSeJctWrGfULbbqK8hARTKj90Hihpisr0Kk2a3oBCqvWhJiPw5tJlktJELPXb4dhRY1nSpExOyp-DB2nljTIswTEaVUFHeRufgigtwuEqiyvIPFeSzVtbyUejqifcRHHQZYEalkKAw-MhGOYh2-z0BUD1eU5qdOwoQW0j-sYYGugtvbAmAzjDkupfdRehJNVm9Bk7ZTE0b3C5NiHd-B5GI5WNKZa26FAm4g0TP3bGjDAmuvJIcywBdQFF8VjFMSG3EH6gtC5CoyzMNnJCm1Wkrt1NmBQYdU6Ac3a9LNH5zA_b69uQM3ScWzPf7-i_KtsTNKFpgHC9E1ee0JIHEi3VKZnxpm12qjHpOsLClphErmqlocxpiP8tkaNiniH_Z2LSTsIGeMtENMtmwWSIeI8Vx-qiOEHkCvRCWgsB9m4pXA2pcywtxDwotX0qwNcK72N2aYO1aT1j7meazxyZoQGSEQqf-Kth-Vh7P-E9QomKBDFRo5QfqzNrRHoHKW7CI-zK7h7XYm4sUTJ8xwPbbPzdBdn3mTdGhUcd2YDSQL2_tVkJcdYR59HrXUs-P9PkALjflbIzX-GB6ux6hROJ57WjJVfA-oQ5r7EOpWx_8oy4sSkc0-L-TaxeM0_a21eCjL9tjMeORk-R7l66fmw=w1236-h928-no

The green is our aftermarket tach, red with white stripe comes from power stage PN 1, blue goes from power stage PN 4 to the coil positive and to the EZK box i believe PN 6, Lastly the other red which is on the positive is a switched power from our dash which was used in the previous coil as the power in (we might remove it if the EZK needs to be the only power in)
 

bobxyz

Board Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2014
Location
Boulder CO
Pictures aren't working for me.

If you look at the hall sensor connector on the disti, I think it will have embossed text of "+ O -". + goes to red/switched +12v, - goes to black/ground, O goes to blue/ezk-24 input.
 
Joined
Nov 17, 2022
Pictures aren't working for me.

If you look at the hall sensor connector on the disti, I think it will have embossed text of "+ O -". + goes to red/switched +12v, - goes to black/ground, O goes to blue/ezk-24 input.

Sorry the photos aren't working... Not sure why they aren't visible to others or how to share them successfully but I think it would really help if others could see the engine bay.

Yeah that's how our hall sensor was wired. We don't have a lot of leads on the problem so we think that it's gotta be something to do with the coil, power stage, or some of the wiring between them and the ezk and ecu. Do you know of any common mistakes when wiring those up?
 

bobxyz

Board Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2014
Location
Boulder CO
I haven't done this conversion myself, so I don't know what the common issues are.

You can try connecting a volt meter across the disti center "O" wire and ground, then either turn the engine over by hand (key on), or pull the disti and spin it by hand, and see if the voltage varies as the disti vanes go past the hall sensor. I think it's a 5volt circuit, so varying between ~1volt and ~5volts would be good.

The next one I'd check is if you're getting a spark signal to powerstage-5. Use a test light (LED preferred) to ground and see if it blinks as the vanes go by (it's a brief ~0.005sec pulse to ~2volts, so a DVOM probably won't catch it.)

You can also download the ignition green book (TP31397-1_700_ignition_incomplete from ozvolvo/archive) and try going through the EZ117K diag measurements. You don't have the blinky light test point wired up, but that won't help anyway with a non-runner.

Note: don't jam the meter probes into the big connector, or you'll damage the pins - just touch them lightly. Or you can take the cover off again and probe on the sides. I'd just be careful and probe the normal connector face.
 

rb92673

racecar
Joined
Jan 17, 2017
Location
San Clemente
Sorry the photos aren't working... Not sure why they aren't visible to others or how to share them successfully but I think it would really help if others could see the engine bay.

Yeah that's how our hall sensor was wired. We don't have a lot of leads on the problem so we think that it's gotta be something to do with the coil, power stage, or some of the wiring between them and the ezk and ecu. Do you know of any common mistakes when wiring those up?

Is it a shielded wire between the hall sensor and the EZK?
 
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