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240 Coilovers: The Kyote Way

if you know someone in the military who has access to a machine shop on base, they would probably do it for you no charge. they get bored apparently and look for new things to do.
 
rode around the block today, feels "tight"? Rubbing like crazy in the front, but I have it pretty low. Will know more tonight once I get all the air out of the brakes. Pedal is still too soft.
 
like tires rubbing? could be those 17's. Explain tight. Is it a pretty stiff bound/rebound?
 
I was looking for the buick/olds strut #'s and I don't think anyone has posted them. If you have used these are they for 2 series or 7 series. Are they better than Saab inserts?
 
I was looking for the buick/olds strut #'s and I don't think anyone has posted them. If you have used these are they for 2 series or 7 series. Are they better than Saab inserts?

Define better?

As in actual rates and spring control or just plain fitting?

It's a gamble and even if they "work" are they ideal or just passable?

I'm guessing most people that go the route of using a Saab or Buick insert are just happy with what they have and don't know if it could get better or care.
 
I agree about spring rates and control. I was just looking at the fitment and why a poor spring control rate of the Saabs were being repeated without looking into more. I came across this great document from Monroe. I have found many different size comparisons to use in their listings and I am going to start researching what they are valved for. See the following: http://www.monroe.com/assets/downloads/english/2013MonroeM&L_Rev20131001.pdf

At the bottom is good info. The more I look at spring rates of other vehicles that they are on it could produce some cross reference for this thread.
 
I agree about spring rates and control. I was just looking at the fitment and why a poor spring control rate of the Saabs were being repeated without looking into more. I came across this great document from Monroe. I have found many different size comparisons to use in their listings and I am going to start researching what they are valved for. See the following: http://www.monroe.com/assets/downloads/english/2013MonroeM&L_Rev20131001.pdf

At the bottom is good info. The more I look at spring rates of other vehicles that they are on it could produce some cross reference for this thread.


There's no useable information for spring rates or valving in that pdf that I can see.
 
No there isn't. However by part # i am going to research. It will most likely take some time. I am hoping the effort produces TB budget solutions.
 
I am not necessarily looking up info on Monroe parts. It is the dimensional data that is important in this document. However the applications are a good start. Monroe also may not be a good unit but some one constructing in stages could use cheap or pick&pull parts to get started. I know that I have done a lot of fabrication w jy parts to mock up set ups I have also found great parts for what I need by looking in jy at different applications.
 
like tires rubbing? could be those 17's. Explain tight. Is it a pretty stiff bound/rebound?

Yeah, it rubs on all 4 corners. The front fender liners need to be trimmed. Will be easier now that I have "witness" marks from where the tires have been.

Overall I was REALLY happy with how the front turned out. Keep in mind, I have driven 1 245, my own, and my entire ownership the struts were toast. Just improving the droop travel would have made a huge difference. After putting just a few miles on the setup, it rides much better than the cut springs in all ways. It feels much more stable and is comfy cruising down the highway. I resisted all temptations to throw it through an exit ramp, but I am sure it will be an improvement over the cut springs.

At the end of the day, I know that this is a compromise and I don't expect it to handle like an Ariel Atom or a modern day supercar. I am sure the olds struts are less than ideal, but at $40 a piece and they fit, figured I would give it a try. So far so good.
 
Yeah bought some rustoleum galvanized zinc paint.

For the camber plates - the main unit goes under the strut tower, then the thinner plate goes on top of the strut tower?

You can do it 2 ways.

They can go all under

1040716_10151564655427857_1249626480_o_1024x1024.jpeg


or if you want increased adjustment range and want to cut you can do this

wWXVnVS_1024x1024.jpeg
 
Earlier I stated that I would look into spring rates that the Monroe #73305 and Sachs #030 001 strut inserts were used on. These are used on 1988-1996 Grand Prix, Olds Cutlass, and Buick Regals. The springs used on these vehicles are variable rate springs. Moog uses 2 loose wound coils at 125lb/in and 5 coils at a calculated around 350lb rates. The Grand Prix people use this strut and agree that the measured spring rate is 300-350lb/in (no science just general consensus). If you wish to calculate the springs the wire diameter is .62" on regals and .69 on Grand Prix. They have an inside diameter of 6.93 and 5.91 coils for calculation.
Now I don't know the valving of course and Sachs has made this one part # to control many applications. I will be ordering the Sachs units and report my findings. I will also be studying the other strut insert sizes that look good.
This is only initial research and I would love to see these units on a Dyno to get real results. These units are also not high performance units but maybe a get you by unit.
 
True. Im not drifting or anything like that so just a basic stock feel for me is good. Just in order to get low without hitting bump stops, I had to get shorter struts so the basic stock Cutlass struts were right up my alley. However, Jungledorifuto uses these and drifts the ish out of his car.
 
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