Can you use an ice cube to smash iced over it hot after gentle little butane torch with some penetrating lube snd t-handle breaker bar w/stud extractor that bites the stud from 360 degrees and get it moving/rock it or similar?
I have a short 1/2? drive T-handle slider breaker bar with detent from the 70s I use for gently screwing diesel injectors into D24 heads so I don?t crack them snd working stubborn studs back and forth rocking them without putting torque on just one side of them if I?d be using a socket or ratchet otherwise?
Failing that, there?s the thing swedishiron posted, but most machinists worth their salt (or guys with good dentists fine motor hand control & ?the Midas touch? for metal tweakiness with mechanicals, jewelry, metal teeth etc?) just have a plasma cutter snd give stuck rusty snapped studs a good zap with the oil and ice cube after tapping them with the right implement snd they just about jump right outta there?
But they do it every day/know how to control their temps & have a feel for each type of stuck fastener & how hard, how old/fatigued & temp cycled, how rusty & how stuck?
Busted or stuck in aluminum damaging the threads in the aluminum alloy is often more the issue compared to rusted/stuck steel stud to cast iron?
..but they?re often wound in their fairly tight to the shoulder or the stud.
Later whiteblock turbo cars use all-thread studs that seem more reliable among other subtle revisions?
Good luck?
On the old oil only turbo beat out non-if B21Ft cars, those things the manifold warps and rips the threads out of the heads oftentimes/issues?
?better studs & turbo cup washers might be nice tho probably overkill for n/a.
The pre 90 manifolds warp at the head flange, 90+ they?re tied together at the head flange & don?t Earp there , but run rat fart small Mitsubishi junk restrictive turbos with a tiny outlet, thick turbo flange and thin spot in the quality cast tube collector where they crack?
