• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

240 Pinion seal replacement

sim

sim

Mere Drab Mob
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Location
Port Moody, BC
I did the G80 swap last fall in our 242 and it made the snow so
much better last winter. I measured the backlash and took a
pattern when I swapped the carriers to ensure the gears did not
have a short life. Everything worked out with no messing about
with shims, I simply swapped them over from the open carrier to
the G80. I also replaced the carrier bearings. I left the pinion
gear alone at the time.

I was quite impressed that I managed to do the swap without
breaking anything. I've been enjoying my new shop press and
especially my new dead-blow hammer since. They were cheaper than
the shop time would have been.

Since then, the diff has developed a nice leak from the pinion
seal. While I value the rustproofing effect, the smell from the
stains on the driveway is awful, and I worry it will run dry and
write off the gearset in the diff.

Is there anything I need to know before attempting to replace the
seal?

I've got a new seal ready to go.

I'll pop the cover and check the backlash again as well as the
meshing pattern. I'll count the turns on the pinion nut and
replace it to the same depth.

I've heard that the pinion nuts are single use? I can't even find
replacements on the iPd or FCP websites, though I suspect the
local Napa could hook me up.

I'm diving in tomorrow, as it happens the U-joints need doing
also, so it's drive train day.

Any tips?

Any gotchas?

Thanks for any advice.
 
Nothing really special....... Clean it up before pulling it. No need to go after backlash on the gears..... That didn't change.

Don't be too big a savage installing the seal... It takes some finessing with the hammer...... You'll see.

I like a dab of Toyota's black sealer around the outside of the seal as sexual lubricant. We know how she no like the dry sex! A dab of grease on the sealing surface of the seal to lube it...... Get the nut tight enough..... Pretty tight with my airgun is how I do it.

U-Joints are trickier. You're more likely to end up leaking for it.
 
Thanks for the reply John and Mick,

This sounds like a pretty straightforward task. I thought it might
be, but I wanted to be sure.

The u-joints are a little tricky, yes, but I rebuilt the
propshaft in the wagon last year, so I know what I'm gettting
into there. Driving on the stiff, vibrating driveshaft probably
did the pinion seal in. I hope the tailshaft and bearing on the
tranny is okay.

Thanks for the part number Mick.
 
Well, the new seal is in and appears to hold back the oil.

I re-used the pinion nut as the local Napa could not get me one.
I think it will be okay.

I got to make Volvo special tool number five thousand and
something, a pin spanner to counterhold the pinion flange. That
was fun, and it looks like it will work on a transmission output
flange as well.

The u-joints are replaced and the nasty vibration is gone.

It was a bit of a pain getting the old seal out, but the new one
went in just fine with a wooden wire brush handle between the
hammer and the seal.

Hopefully this will be good for another couple hundred thousand
kilometers.
 
The seal was leaking on juniors car , so we replaced it , and used the correct torque for the flange......It wasnt run dry of oil but after about 3 months it sounded like riding in a dumpster truck ! You could barely turn the pinion by hand.......Maybe we were just unlucky.....Installed a complete used axle instead.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top