Edit: not much of a discussion so I’ll just add this to my original post. jonfraser thank you for the reply, I did address two of three things you mentioned in my post but I am without my garage or many tools so testing fuel pressure and injector pulse is not an option for the moment.
As the problem was briefly intermittent I believe I checked the pumps at a point when it would have otherwise started. When it would not start I did observe that the high pressure pump was not operating but with fuse 5 and 7 jumped did have power.
I replaced the high pressure pump and all is well, I’ll have access to my garage shortly and be sure to replace the fuel filter and low pressure supply hose then though the current fuel filter only has 10 years and 50k miles on it.
The high pressure pump was covered in a rubberized chassis coat leading me to believe its original to the car. 240k miles and 37 years is not a bad life for a fuel pump.
Edit no 2: A year and a half later I got around to replacing the auto zone cheap pump that I had intended only to hold me over, it only lasted as long.
Original post:
For the past year and for the first time since becoming a RWD Volvo devotee in 2009 I am living with just a single car and apart from nearly all my tools.
The car is an ‘83 245 converted to LH2.2 and EZK 117. Electronically it’s a 740. The conversion was done in 2011 with about 30 k miles on it since. Basically the stock LH 2.0 harness re pinned for the 2.2 AMM with an EZK harness that I made myself.
Last week my car stalled in traffic and would nor start until sitting for and hour or so and would then drive like nothing was wrong.
The stalling became more frequent and the time needed to restart longer.
This morning the car started roughly and only ran (at idle) for a few minutes.
Initially after stalling the car would restart with the AMM wire harness disconnected however swapping the AMM with my spare did not change the behavior any.
The stalls always appeared while accelerating, when this happened the first time it did not immediately stop running and the tachometer appeared steady. I have a voltage gauge and it too showed no sights of trouble either.
When the car won’t start it is getting spark. Both the installed and spare AMM measure 3.4 ohms resistance between terminals 2 and 3.
I pulled the engine and replaced all of the gaskets and seals last summer as well as all of the vacuum hoses. I did find a tiny hole in the intake hose from rubbing on the charcoal canister hoses and wrapped it in an old bicycle inner tube as a temp repair. The idle switch clicks when the throttle is opened. The air box thermostat appears to work and the the “hot air” side from the exhaust is closed as it should be this time of year, as I’m about to permanently move to San Diego I’ll likely gut it but I don’t think it’s faulty.
Jumping the fuel pumps has no effect and both pumps operate. The in tank flex hose and suction strainer were replaced less than a month ago. The FPR has no tell tell fuel drips or smell from the vacuum nipple. I don’t however have the tools (with me) to test pressure at the fuel rail.
I have not done a continuity test of any wiring however the harness is a later replacement and not the original biodegradable part. It is the 2.0 harness with the AMM pins rearranged for the 2.2 unit.
As the problem was briefly intermittent I believe I checked the pumps at a point when it would have otherwise started. When it would not start I did observe that the high pressure pump was not operating but with fuse 5 and 7 jumped did have power.
I replaced the high pressure pump and all is well, I’ll have access to my garage shortly and be sure to replace the fuel filter and low pressure supply hose then though the current fuel filter only has 10 years and 50k miles on it.
The high pressure pump was covered in a rubberized chassis coat leading me to believe its original to the car. 240k miles and 37 years is not a bad life for a fuel pump.
Edit no 2: A year and a half later I got around to replacing the auto zone cheap pump that I had intended only to hold me over, it only lasted as long.
Original post:
For the past year and for the first time since becoming a RWD Volvo devotee in 2009 I am living with just a single car and apart from nearly all my tools.
The car is an ‘83 245 converted to LH2.2 and EZK 117. Electronically it’s a 740. The conversion was done in 2011 with about 30 k miles on it since. Basically the stock LH 2.0 harness re pinned for the 2.2 AMM with an EZK harness that I made myself.
Last week my car stalled in traffic and would nor start until sitting for and hour or so and would then drive like nothing was wrong.
The stalling became more frequent and the time needed to restart longer.
This morning the car started roughly and only ran (at idle) for a few minutes.
Initially after stalling the car would restart with the AMM wire harness disconnected however swapping the AMM with my spare did not change the behavior any.
The stalls always appeared while accelerating, when this happened the first time it did not immediately stop running and the tachometer appeared steady. I have a voltage gauge and it too showed no sights of trouble either.
When the car won’t start it is getting spark. Both the installed and spare AMM measure 3.4 ohms resistance between terminals 2 and 3.
I pulled the engine and replaced all of the gaskets and seals last summer as well as all of the vacuum hoses. I did find a tiny hole in the intake hose from rubbing on the charcoal canister hoses and wrapped it in an old bicycle inner tube as a temp repair. The idle switch clicks when the throttle is opened. The air box thermostat appears to work and the the “hot air” side from the exhaust is closed as it should be this time of year, as I’m about to permanently move to San Diego I’ll likely gut it but I don’t think it’s faulty.
Jumping the fuel pumps has no effect and both pumps operate. The in tank flex hose and suction strainer were replaced less than a month ago. The FPR has no tell tell fuel drips or smell from the vacuum nipple. I don’t however have the tools (with me) to test pressure at the fuel rail.
I have not done a continuity test of any wiring however the harness is a later replacement and not the original biodegradable part. It is the 2.0 harness with the AMM pins rearranged for the 2.2 unit.
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