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245 -90 D5 swap

Lankku

Member
Joined
May 23, 2015
Location
Finland
I originally bought this ~9 years ago and sold it after doing some fixes. A bit over 4.5 years ago I was asked if I wanted it back so I decided to buy it. The intention was to keep it as a spare for the "better" cars. I drove it around 30 miles in three years and then it just sat and waited.

It was equipped from factory with B200F, M45, no power steering, no central locking but with metallic paint. Current Odo reading ~265000km/165000miles.

Pics I've taken 9 years ago:
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Early this year I bought a -05 V70 D5 manual AWD for daily use. Repaired all it needed(angle gear & sleeve, clutch & flywheel, headlight lenses, full service, lifters, rockers etc.) and drove it but it just didn't hit right. As I sometimes want to try something new for me, I made the V70 a parts car because of the engine. Mileage is only 518000km/322000miles:-P

I started by stripping the V70:
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Besides the electrics, oil pan was a puzzle of its own. I shortened 960 sump with front part made out of D5 sump with an outside oil pressure line. Removed the heat exchanger but left the water hose for the possibility of adding it in the future. Some welding was done(not by me).
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Fiddling with the lubrication didn't stop just with the oil pan. D5 oil pump has a high(over) pressure valve that opens in 800kPa. It also has a pressure reducer valve in the other heat exchanger connection that opens in 550kPa setting the max oil pressure. Modifying the pan meant that reducer valve was removed so I replaced the oil pump with a 6-cyl pump. Those have a valve that opens in 650kPa. 6-cyl pump is thicker so I had to make a spacer for the crank wheel which in turn brings the damper outside. I'll look into installing a 6-cyl valve into a D5 pump, they seem to be similar.

There is a company offering a service to make the ECU a standalone but I used all parts needed from the V70. Wiring used and leftovers:
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Made a mount for gas pedal:
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ECU and CEM relocation:
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Immobilizer ring installation and key mod. Just cut and welded the keys together:
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Made the engine mounts using V70 hydraulic mounts and front driveshaft half:
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Had all suspension parts and transmission support hot dip galvanized. Missing from the picture is Panhard and driveshaft support.
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Made the front wheel bearing dust shield out of aluminium and installed "new" discs with new pads and calipers. Including Turbo springs, Bilstein B8 shocks and FL 960 front swaybar. Rear also has recently rebuilt calipers with new pads, brake shoes and "new" discs.
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Fuel tank was pretty much done. Replaced it with a almost new one which I had sandblasted and slapped some new paint(epoxy and urethane) on because the factory paint is crap. It had a high flow in-tank pump so I removed the stock pump under the car.
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I had the floor sandblasted, repaired the rust spots, painted and sprayed rustproof and underseal. Front half is still to be cleaned and painted and lacks power steering.
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There has been naturally much more to do than all of the previously mentioned, but who likes to read forever? :lol:

Last friday I had it inspected and now it's road legal and I've driven some. Still needs work until I'm satisfied with it but it runs and drives so there's that :cool: Should take some pics in daylight but on the outside it's just a 245 that needs bodywork and a new paint.

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dl242gt

The world of the smiling Dogo
Joined
Jun 21, 2002
Location
S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
Fabulous work! Is that going to be the winter car?

A m45, manual steering car from 1990? You guys truly had a full range of trim available on these cars. That's the most basic late model 240 I've
ever seen. Enjoy that unusual swap. :cool:
 

adomz

Volvo 486 owner :D
Joined
Feb 9, 2010
Location
Chepstow, Wales, Uk
That's ace!! Great engine! D5244t? Same as in my xc70. I was thinking of doing this to my 242, but the b230 fk 16v seemed like a more of a treasure i think :)

Can't wait for more!

ADam
 

Lankku

Member
Joined
May 23, 2015
Location
Finland
Fabulous work! Is that going to be the winter car?

A m45, manual steering car from 1990? You guys truly had a full range of trim available on these cars. That's the most basic late model 240 I've
ever seen. Enjoy that unusual swap. :cool:
That's my intention. Needs at least 3.54 but optimally a 3.31 or 3.15 rear gear and at the same time I'll instal either a Truetrac or an original LSD.

That's almost the base model of base models. It was a long time commonly said that there are other market areas and then there is Finland :-P A lot of base models and 2l engines.

That's ace!! Great engine! D5244t? Same as in my xc70. I was thinking of doing this to my 242, but the b230 fk 16v seemed like a more of a treasure i think :)

Can't wait for more!

ADam
Yep, 163hp D5244T.

Physically fitting the engine in a 200-series is a lot of more work than a 700/900. Even when using 06-> Common Rail pump there is around 1cm/0.4" between the pump and firewall. And that is the firewall as much backwards that it can go without modifying the heater. I've seen pics of a 940 with 06-> engine with an unmodified 960 sump and assumably stock firewall.
 

adomz

Volvo 486 owner :D
Joined
Feb 9, 2010
Location
Chepstow, Wales, Uk
Yep, 163hp D5244T.

Physically fitting the engine in a 200-series is a lot of more work than a 700/900. Even when using 06-> Common Rail pump there is around 1cm/0.4" between the pump and firewall. And that is the firewall as much backwards that it can go without modifying the heater. I've seen pics of a 940 with 06-> engine with an unmodified 960 sump and assumably stock firewall.

That's absolutely interesting!

Great work and keep us updated :)
 

OVERDRIVE

Active member
Joined
Jul 31, 2017
Location
Brooklyn, Neu York
That engine bay looks neater than most +t's. Amazing work. I would love to hear what MPG's you're getting and how refined it feels while diving compared to a B200/B230.
 

Lankku

Member
Joined
May 23, 2015
Location
Finland
After the last time I've done some more changes and updates.

The most major one was swapping the rear axle from "B6284T". It has Truetrack and 3.31 gears so it's closer to being a correct one for this engine, but still far. Rpm dropped on 5th gear around 300rpm to 2600. Still 400rpm to go if I want to reach the original rpm.

Did the removal outside(almost).
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Swap was much more smoother and it's not that bad of a job on these anyway. Swapped the dust shields and driveshafts.
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Smaller changes include making the instrumentation lights work, changing softer rear shocks, etc.

Among the changes was swapping Hydras to 15" steelies with 164 rim trims and stock center caps. Not only for looks, but the front shocks are way too stiff for winter use and it's a slightly softer ride with higher tire:-P
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Did a small roadtrip and fuel consumption was surprisingly ok. Around 6l/100km which translates to 39.2mpg(?).

Since the beginning too high rail pressure has been an issue that has prevented doing proper accelerations. Apparently 06-> CR pump has bigger volume than older one and it gave 1800bar(sensor doesn't read higher) pressure before half throttle. Got it tuned today and now I can finally drive it as I want. Maybe mpg goes down a bit more even it already is reasonable.

I've had a new Truetrac on the shelf for some time and now is a good time to build another rear axle to "B6284T". Might try 3.54 gears for change.
 
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Lankku

Member
Joined
May 23, 2015
Location
Finland
Took the front Bilsteins out and installed basic shocks and boy is it much better to drive. I think the Bilsteins are valved around 310/120, so really on the stiff side. Also swapped the blown out stock top mounts to "B6284T's" old Kaplhenke parts. Front dropped a little lower but much. Now it feels like the suspension is doing something on bumps rather than seats and tires:lol:

Installed sound deadening mat on to front floors. It's been on the shelf for a couple years because it needs a lot of heat to mold and stick properly. Helped to lower the noise levels, as expected, but took a lot longer than I expected. An oven for preheating would've been nice. Used a thinner mat for more difficult areas. Cut a peace of foam type mat for the shifter hole and it worked better than I thought it would.

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