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3D Printed Parts Thread

May be a slim chance but does anyone have a model of the 244 third brake light cover? Mine disintegrated years ago from the sun damage and not too much a fan of bare wires just hanging around.
 
CAPT_BLOTTO said:
I have access to a high quality 3D scanner now. I want to try and at least create some more STL files of parts. Like the gauge housings. Snow caps would be good but I don't have any on hand. Visor clips. What else would be good to get scanned?
Click to expand...
Feels like pull handles are something that's missing, I know wagonmeister makes the covers but my 3rd row seat handle is coming apart at the bolt holes. Others would be the 245 tailgate inner handle plastic, some of the seat belt bolt covers and other smaller plastic covers in the back of a wagon, the wagon dome light (primarily the switch), and the small little plastic insert that separates the locking pull (tall/thin plastic knob) from the door card
edit: And the small plastic clips that hold the small chrome strip to the boxier trim that came on '82-85 cars1690328058376.png
 
Fawnzee said:
Feels like pull handles are something that's missing, I know wagonmeister makes the covers but my 3rd row seat handle is coming apart at the bolt holes. Others would be the 245 tailgate inner handle plastic, some of the seat belt bolt covers and other smaller plastic covers in the back of a wagon, the wagon dome light (primarily the switch), and the small little plastic insert that separates the locking pull (tall/thin plastic knob) from the door card
edit: And the small plastic clips that hold the small chrome strip to the boxier trim that came on '82-85 carsView attachment 22824
Click to expand...

Pull handles like the ones on the headliner?
I think I have a few of those other parts as spares. I might try to grab a few to take back and scan some more. It's a bit of a learning curve using the scanner. Hopefully I can get it working a little better and more efficient and I can get some printable models. Parking brake covers are cool but very difficult to make.
 
CAPT_BLOTTO said:
Pull handles like the ones on the headliner?
I think I have a few of those other parts as spares. I might try to grab a few to take back and scan some more. It's a bit of a learning curve using the scanner. Hopefully I can get it working a little better and more efficient and I can get some printable models. Parking brake covers are cool but very difficult to make.
Click to expand...
Correct, the grab handles on the headliner
 
Hey folks,

Just found this thread, wanted to request a simple part design if anyone has free time: I just hate this part. Honestly, it is a super simple plastic but all all my junkyard founds are also broken. I plastic welded it, glued it and fixed bunch of these but if I can get a brand new one in hard plastic, I'd pray for your good soul. It's inside the indicator arm - for the horn button. Apparently, lot of people in facebook groups are also looking for these. Might be useful to whole bunch of people.

1690571033576.png

1690570995918.png
 
Mrzci33 said:
Hey folks,

Just found this thread, wanted to request a simple part design if anyone has free time: I just hate this part. Honestly, it is a super simple plastic but all all my junkyard founds are also broken. I plastic welded it, glued it and fixed bunch of these but if I can get a brand new one in hard plastic, I'd pray for your good soul. It's inside the indicator arm - for the horn button. Apparently, lot of people in facebook groups are also looking for these. Might be useful to whole bunch of people.

View attachment 22861

View attachment 22860
Click to expand...
That’s an easy part to reverse engineer and print
 
HiSPL said:
Ohh. I actually have a scan request.

We all have the large clocks out of the dash. Can you scan that so we can model a housing for it to use as a standalone clock? A nice little Volvo table clock.
Click to expand...
I've been toying with this idea for quite a while.
 
www.thingiverse.com

CNC mill 3D printed and laser cut by liquidhandwash

Ive designed this mill so that most of the parts that are hard to get or make can be 3D printed. Its design to be modular so you can easily change the size of the machine by changing either the sides or the front and back plates. Its accurate enough to cut and drill circuit boards, and small...
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com

I’ve been thinking of trying to print one of these
 
ryanfay said:
www.thingiverse.com

CNC mill 3D printed and laser cut by liquidhandwash

Ive designed this mill so that most of the parts that are hard to get or make can be 3D printed. Its design to be modular so you can easily change the size of the machine by changing either the sides or the front and back plates. Its accurate enough to cut and drill circuit boards, and small...
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com

I’ve been thinking of trying to print one of these
Click to expand...
That's pretty much a modded version of a 3018 CNC.


I have a 3018 and it is absolute garbage.
I spend weeks modifying it and writing a post to be able to do more than simple engraving and quickly found its limits.

Here is a steering wheel horn adapter I designed and machined on the 3018.

Capture.JPG
 
I kinda guessed that with a diy (or $200) mill. It seems like the non-garb or less-garb ones start at $1000 or so. I mean it’s plastic with little pinner lead screws.
 
drunkmonkey said:
That's pretty much a modded version of a 3018 CNC.


I have a 3018 and it is absolute garbage.
I spend weeks modifying it and writing a post to be able to do more than simple engraving and quickly found its limits.

Here is a steering wheel horn adapter I designed and machined on the 3018.

View attachment 22974
Click to expand...
What’s your chip load? Looks like some FPT and possibly some sort of tool helix angle causing too much chip thinning. Kinda stringing out and welding chip back to work piece.

I had similar issues with my haas desktop. We ran a bunch of comparisons and found that with delrin, we had to run higher fpt, so dropped spindle speeds for a given feed rate, also had to thin in inside corners. For aluminum, there were multiple things that had to happen, most notably finding a good helix angle for tools, and ratio of doc/engagement/fpt/sound pocket.
 
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