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$650 1993 940 Turbo Wagon

PNW760

Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2015
Location
Battle Ground, WA
Met a fellow Romanian on the TB Facebook group and through some digging, he was able to source a junkyard in Romania parting out an M90 940. Total cost of transmission pulled is $350. Doing some digging into shipping costs, because if it?s not worth it, might have to source from England or someone who already has one in the states.

Besides the transmission itself and shifter assembly, what other parts are needed? I?m assuming driveline and pedal assembly? Flywheel? I don?t want to pay to ship it over only to realize I forgot something..
 

dl242gt

Old and boxy but good.
Joined
Jun 21, 2002
Location
S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
Front half of the driveshaft is good. You don't need the whole length and that will save a bit on shipping. I'd expect the shipping to be around $1k from that area. Definitely cheaper from the UK or EU.
 

Kjets On a Plane

Active member
Joined
Nov 12, 2002
Location
Californicated Oregone
UK they (M90s) were going down hard 7-10 years ago for cheap if you were willing to pay shipping? & probably still are inexpensive if they haven?t all been crashed on the 3rd gear hub ring or crushed by now? But shipping isn?t cheap these days on pallets/heavy used junk from Europe?

You?d need the LHD manual pedal box stuff in hydro probably (idk if M90s have cable clutch provisions like M4x do?I don?t believe so/one parts bin that shares with the hydro (even on n/a 850s) M56s of the era?).

Or buy the M46 donor 700 that popped up cheap in eastern WA a while back & then you just need the shifter bracket, trans & half the driveline to M90 convert later ? ?87+ manual cars (2 or 7,but especially 7) are exceedingly rare?even tho I?ve had a bunch?

I don?t really think of the 7/9s as ?drivers cars? it it?s kinda all over after the last 245Turbo in ?85 to me / Volvo just made grandpa and more gadget laden cars after that?
Autos nice when it works?
Those cars kinda push/handle badly with slow (~4 turn lock to lock) steering w/ bad brakes and are heavy/ugly/grandpa?
But they?re not bad cars per se / they got a lot right with them? :e-shrug:

The 25 rear bar is kinda sketchy for rear traction?
The 24/19 factory recombine with poor man?s overloads (earlier 245 rear springs?) I found worked good on those?.hard to find a white paint no sunroof manual gray cloth seat 945?never should have sold the one I had?!
Sunroofs & leather power seats are common, the former being not s bolt in affair to delete?
 

redblockpowered

mails files to people
Joined
May 5, 2015
Location
Swampscott, MA
Met a fellow Romanian on the TB Facebook group and through some digging, he was able to source a junkyard in Romania parting out an M90 940. Total cost of transmission pulled is $350. Doing some digging into shipping costs, because if it?s not worth it, might have to source from England or someone who already has one in the states.

Besides the transmission itself and shifter assembly, what other parts are needed? I?m assuming driveline and pedal assembly? Flywheel? I don?t want to pay to ship it over only to realize I forgot something..

Check the build thread for my car, I wrote down every part needed along with where I got it. I think you can't get clutch pedals new anymore but that's the only real difference.
 

PNW760

Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2015
Location
Battle Ground, WA
UK they (M90s) were going down hard 7-10 years ago for cheap if you were willing to pay shipping? & probably still are inexpensive if they haven?t all been crashed on the 3rd gear hub ring or crushed by now? But shipping isn?t cheap these days on pallets/heavy used junk from Europe?

You?d need the LHD manual pedal box stuff in hydro probably (idk if M90s have cable clutch provisions like M4x do?I don?t believe so/one parts bin that shares with the hydro (even on n/a 850s) M56s of the era?).

Or buy the M46 donor 700 that popped up cheap in eastern WA a while back & then you just need the shifter bracket, trans & half the driveline to M90 convert later ? ?87+ manual cars (2 or 7,but especially 7) are exceedingly rare?even tho I?ve had a bunch?

I don?t really think of the 7/9s as ?drivers cars? it it?s kinda all over after the last 245Turbo in ?85 to me / Volvo just made grandpa and more gadget laden cars after that?
Autos nice when it works?
Those cars kinda push/handle badly with slow (~4 turn lock to lock) steering w/ bad brakes and are heavy/ugly/grandpa?
But they?re not bad cars per se / they got a lot right with them? :e-shrug:

The 25 rear bar is kinda sketchy for rear traction?
The 24/19 factory recombine with poor man?s overloads (earlier 245 rear springs?) I found worked good on those?.hard to find a white paint no sunroof manual gray cloth seat 945?never should have sold the one I had?!
Sunroofs & leather power seats are common, the former being not s bolt in affair to delete?

M90's only had 3rd gear issues with the first generation of the transmission from what I understood, the M90L1, I thought the L2 sorted that out. At least that's what my transmission source in Romania had told me.

The only reason I would even bother shipping from Romania is because all the parts are already LHD where UK parts aren't. I assume for most parts this doesn't matter but the LHD pedal box at least.

I've driven M46.. and I'll have to pass. I'm sure in their prime they were good, but I would prefer something a little smoother to shift and that can hold power. If i'm not mistaken, the M46 doesn't take power too well (not that a 16t will be pushing that much power but if I'm going through go through the effort of swapping a trans, I'd like one that was originally meant for the car)

I know they're ugly, but it's my ugly grandpa car. Down the road a 242 or 245 would be nice to own but the opportunity to buy back my 940 came around and it was too good to pass it up. One day it would be nice to do a full restore on a 242 or 245 with toy bumpers, and put something fun and unconventional but that's not happening today..

What's wrong with the 25mm rear bar?
 

PNW760

Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2015
Location
Battle Ground, WA
hard to find a white paint no sunroof manual gray cloth seat 945?never should have sold the one I had?!
Sunroofs & leather power seats are common, the former being not s bolt in affair to delete?

My buddy had a white, grey cloth, auto (tragic) turbo '95 944. Thinking back now, it was a rare car since the 95's in the US were weird cars that came with non-traditional options since I think dealers were trying to offload the last of their inventories. You don't really see white 940 with grey cloth though..
 

Kjets On a Plane

Active member
Joined
Nov 12, 2002
Location
Californicated Oregone
The 25mm ipd rear bar isn't so much 'bad' and I'm not trying to trash talk IPD; it works basically as advertised; car rotates a little better?
But, it also sacrifices rear traction with the stock soft rear springs and if the car really hits a dip it could spin out...

The OE recombine of the 24/19 combo with some slightly stiffer rear springs (I just use early 245 rear springs as cheap overloads on 7/9 wagons?) and camber mod really helps those things out...maybe effort better spent?
I don't lower any cars...
The 7/9 front bilsteins IDK what happened there? Did they get the compression #s backwards or from a truck or something? It's like pogo-stick over-achiever on compression?

The late 1994-1995 A/C & alt bracket is a LOT stronger...if you load the alt running the electric fan + compressor the regular 7/9 bracket can crack/break off & has those stoopid hooptie bushings on the A/C compressor.

I don't think they ever had R134A pressures + vibes/load for the e-fan on the alt in mind when they designed the original bracket & fixed it just before discontinuing redblock RWD in the USA?
The 1995-only brake booster + pedal bracket is a nice assist upgrade & helps the brakes feel a lot better on those pigs?
IDK if 302mm OE P80 brakes can be used...I *think* there's a way to use them (seen the Swedes do it with what looks like relatively clean bolt on methods?) with some manner of rotor...they fit under 15" steelies for P80 & 7/9 swedish cop cars & to bash around in the winter & it's a dirt cheap upgrade, so I accordingly kinda like them?

There's a lot of 7/9 H8, and while the cars look dated/kinda ugly & they're hard for me to like/love & there are seemingly only ~12 people left on the board that aren't both (patiently & pathetically) cheap, lazy &/or hackers that own them if they aren't gray/silver hair age, they're really not bad cars at all?

I can *just* fit in a 240 legroom wise & they're easier to get in and out of/sit more 'atop' them with the short little doors, and while not as good as a 140 with vent windows for pleasant cruising with windows/foot vents without excess noise or rain, the 240s are better that way than the american market designed 7/9 where they really kinda over-did it a little on the ugly, windows up/A/C/HVAC dependence, slow steering, nose heavy etc?

That said, a good D24T or B280 solid axle 7/9 with the sturdy OE hitch is downright impressive for a unibody car just how well it tows & how much stuff you can cram on the roof and still have your black bumpers etc to bash around & quite a pleasant cruiser?
They have a place for sure, and the japanese electronics & best of the '93-'95 940 last of the redblocks recombined make a good setup.
'93 is nice in that it's last year for no dual SRS dash/easy to delete the airbag & stick the euro non-airbag more comfortable smaller diameter steering wheel in them (with the non-airbag housing for the turn/wiper stalk switch mounts)?

Hard to find a solid common color 7/9 wagon sans sunroof. The cargo bay is also more short and squat and tho the internal hatch hinges are more reliable than the 145/245/Amazon (especially with all those stoopid wires on the later 245 for 3rd brake light, power lock, defrost, & wiper), the design is good from the standpoint of the opening/mouth being able to swallow more on the 145/245, 220 Amazon &/or 210 Duett...

I like 7/9s tho? Tow good, well rust proofed/water falls thru them a little better (sunroof shens / OEM 'near luxury' brands for the USA market cutting upward facing holes in roofs of a perfectly good car on most USA models, notwithstanding :lol: :grrr:...they're fairly reliable and don't leak that often, I just don't like them/head room for rear seat passengers is already a bit tight in 7/9s..), better designed for A/C, manual & or cloth seats comfortable on the highway & reliable?
 

PNW760

Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2015
Location
Battle Ground, WA
Some potentially bad news. Coolant residue has been building up in the area where the head meets the block, at cylinder #1. Looked closer and the area has a wet spot so coolant is seeping from the head gasket area.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/163538670@N04/52282119259/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_9586"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52282119259_f164cf9550_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="IMG_9586"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
It hasn't been eating coolant, in fact my coolant level hasn't changed at all, so I'm going to just keep an eye on it for now, but I'm guessing a head gasket replacement is in my future. Might as well shave the head a few thou' and start upgrading internals when I dig into it.

Honestly I'm not sure why I'm surprised, the motor has 335k on it; it was bound to happen eventually.. I'll drive it less and keep an eye on everything in the mean time.
 

Kjets On a Plane

Active member
Joined
Nov 12, 2002
Location
Californicated Oregone
Hm sometimes happens due to age more than miles when I see that, sometimes water pump top seal.

Hopefully it is external and not corrosive or pitting the block deck?
Seen a few redblocks pitted around the fire ring that would keep blowing HGs rusting to require too much surfacing to make it worth bothering to re-use the block by now at age 30+?
Rare but it happens/lot of time for such things?

Idk about building internals?if it has OK compression/not too much blowby, why build a redblock time bomb? Just keep it drivable/torquey/somewhat fuel efficient T-cam & all with the automatic or save up for a V8 or modern engine swap?

Those E-fan turbo cars run to the ragged edge of hot with the late model ductile alloy heads that are good for maximizing # of temp cycles over the years for the long haul & no cracks between valve seats etc with less pitting at the T-stat housing she used with non corrosive cooownt and better late model ground straps/wiring harnesses, but not always so good for cam rattle/journal alignment & an external leak isn?t that surprising?

Brickboard had a good write up on adding the coolant level sensor used/already wired up on 960s with that coolant reservoir that sometimes fails & making warning lamp already present in the ?91+ style cluster active/functional instead of vestigial on ?92+ models with the coolant reservoir with the spot for the magnet coolant level float sensor ?newer car feature I rather like?if there?s any loss of coolant or brake fluid for any reason (those two particular fluids where s small leak is likely to be serious or get a lot bigger on a long trip?$, I want to know &/or top it off & keep a very close eye on it until a verifiable precise diagnosis & lasting repair can be made?

I?ve also seen them slowly ooze oil ~#1 more due to age than miles as well?
Redblock HG shens don?t necessarily happen all that frequently on cared for cars, but seen a little bit of every kind of HG failure in a sort of scatter plot as well as the cars age ?

If downtime is a concern, another known good squirter B230FT might be wise to have on hand if the head comes off to find a pitted block or something at that age/miles?
That said, head only with a head ready to go is still waaaaaaay less time than removing the bottom end?
I thought we were sorta ?over? ?building? overboosted redblock time-bombs?
 
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