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'67 122s, in way over my head

Slow going on the Amazon. M41 started making bearing noise. So I gotta pull that soon. I didn't feel like doing that right now and the 240 is occupying the garage for rust and windshield work.

Instead I decided to fix a 164 clock to put in the dash somewhere. These things are interesting. They seem to be a mechanical movement but the spring is wound by 12v? There is also a fusable link in the clock that is a low temp solder with a 120C fusing point. So when the solder hits 120C the solder joint will break one contact will separate from the other under spring pressure.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/Borrowed/mult_vdo_clock_repair.htm

So the fix is to find the right solder, which in my case was 52% Indium/48% Selenium stuff I found online.

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Hooked it up to 12V and nudged the little wheel inside and it started ticking.

https://i.imgur.com/V9vt7G5.mp4
 
Made some tweaks to the cooling system. On the aftermarket brass/copper radiators that Skandix and other places sell there are small holes in the side plates that fit #8 screws with enough clearance to not hit the core. I assume for the fan shroud on P1800ES models. I repurposed those to mount my "oh no it is summer and I'm in traffic" electric fan.
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I also got fed up with the noisy metal blower wheel I had on the aftermarket blower motor (supposed to fit an early 80s Wagoneer among other cars). I found a bathroom blower fan STL file online that looked similar to the quite brittle original setup. A few modifications later to match the original fan's dimensions and a few hours on the 3D printer and I have a new blower fan that is far quieter and actually moves more air than the metal blower wheel.
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Finally I put together a revised design for gauges and switches below the dash.
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Well, currently building an engine for this car as the B20F is going to go into the 144 I have in my garage at the moment. Not going to do anything fancy. A nice valve job and 10:1 compression, D cam, etc, the normal formula.

I also rebuilt an M41 while redoing all the gaskets, decided new bearings were an ok idea as I had them on the shelf and I had it apart anyway. It still leaks.
 
I was wondering if the centre section (grill) is in decent shape and if I can convince you to take some close ups of it and sent them to me. My 122 has the back in ding and the body guy in town wants to fix it before he paints my car.

I have had this '69 122 for almost 20 years, in fact I have it so long that my son GTJordan drove it to his high school grad, it is basically stock but I did swap out the rear end for one from a 72 1800 along with IPD springs and bars and Bilsteins, at the same time I replaced the front hubs and rotors from the same 1800, it came with a B20, its a 69, and overdrive.

I been watching your thread for awhile as I usually only lurk here

You can pm me if you can help with some pictures

Martin
 
Pops122 said:
I was wondering if the centre section (grill) is in decent shape and if I can convince you to take some close ups of it and sent them to me. My 122 has the back in ding and the body guy in town wants to fix it before he paints my car.

I have had this '69 122 for almost 20 years, in fact I have it so long that my son GTJordan drove it to his high school grad, it is basically stock but I did swap out the rear end for one from a 72 1800 along with IPD springs and bars and Bilsteins, at the same time I replaced the front hubs and rotors from the same 1800, it came with a B20, its a 69, and overdrive.

I been watching your thread for awhile as I usually only lurk here

You can pm me if you can help with some pictures

Martin
Click to expand...
Oh mine was also backed into, but I just pushed it back out roughly with a 2x4 when I had the radiator out. It is not undented.
 
Pops122 said:
I was wondering if the centre section (grill) is in decent shape and if I can convince you to take some close ups of it and sent them to me. My 122 has the back in ding and the body guy in town wants to fix it before he paints my car.

Martin
Click to expand...


Jack picked up my brothers car that has a NOS front panel on it. It's a '68 but coincidentally it also has an 1800E disc brake conversion including the pedal box with cable clutch and brake booster. PM him if this pic isn't good enough.
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spock345 said:
Oh mine was also backed into, but I just pushed it back out roughly with a 2x4 when I had the radiator out. It is not undented.
Click to expand...
It's like some guy said what's the point of a new paint job if your going to hang ugly old parts on it. Think I'll get a new exhaust, oh wait , I could just get a chrome tip.
hiperfauto said:
Jack picked up my brothers car that has a NOS front panel on it. It's a '68 but coincidentally it also has an 1800E disc brake conversion including the pedal box with cable clutch and brake booster. PM him if this pic isn't good enough.
663946_1.jpg
Click to expand...
I had a 68 122 once, someone had rolled it and I got a roof from the junk yard came with new headliner, but it was white and the car was red I painted the pillers with grey primer no one noticed as I passed them going up hill.
 
It's like some guy said what's the point of a new paint job if your going to hang ugly old parts on it. Think I'll get a new exhaust, oh wait , I could just get a chrome tip.

I had a 68 122 once, someone had rolled it and I got a roof from the junk yard came with new headliner, but it was white and the car was red I painted the pillers with grey primer no one noticed as I passed them going up hill.

How do I pm Jack? picture is good, might be better if it was white. Thanks
 
Glad I checked back in on this thread, this car is coming along super well. I really like the upholstery for one. Nicely done.
 
Been a while since I added to this thread. The car was out of commission for a while as I was building a new engine for it after the B20F I got from RWC was taken by my 144 project. I got a pair of B20 cores from Hi Performance down in Torrance and started rebuilding one.

Before starting the rebuild though it got a brake booster.
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The core engines I got from HiPerfAuto and Planetman were in really good condition. Both were still stock bore and seemed to only need to go to the first oversize. The crank in the one I tore down only needed to be polished. It turns out that getting a set of 0.015" oversize pistons in the US is kind of hard, had to go to Sweden for those. Overall the build was pretty simple and I'll give the details up front. Yes my garage is an atrocious mess.
  • Earlier B20E block from an 1800E from HiPerfAuto and Planetman, bored 0.015" oversize; decked for tight squish
  • Late B20F head rebuilt by Culberro with bronze guides, hardened seats, and stock valves; shaved for about 10.3:1 compression; some cleanup done around the valve seats and any other sharp edges in the ports.
  • Six bolt crank and rods, balanced
  • D cam and steel timing gears
  • MLS headgasket for tight squish
  • Stock oil pump and pan
  • 18-ish pound flywheel
  • Rebuilt M41 transmission with a J type overdrive
  • Twin SU HS6 carburetors on an aluminum manifold; KD needles
  • Penta/Competition Service fuel pump
  • 123 distributor
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More build photos.
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I repainted some before putting the engine in. Got rid of the surface rust in the engine bay beneath the battery and brake master cylinder.
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https://imgur.com/wsMYpXP
Also installed an MSD system I got from a garage sale. It does help a bit with just off idle performance.
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More random photos of some of the work I was doing involving gauges.
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