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Vintage '68 Volvo 122s alternator swap

iwannadrive

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Location
Minneapolis, MN
So I have a '68 Volvo 122s with a b18 and a generator that doesn't always like to charge. Most of the time it doesn't, but it has started charging at a couple points. It was actually charging pretty fine for awhile, but then just stopped.

So far I've only tested the voltage regulator, by shorting terminal df to ground for a second or two, and watching the voltage at d+ and ground. That didn't do anything. (I might be off on the terminal names, I can't remember for sure. I was following a troubleshooting guide on the swem site.)

So now the million dollar question: do I have the generator rebuilt, or do I forsake originality and fit an alternator? *apparently* the generator was recently professionally rebuilt, but I don't trust the previous owner as much as I did at the time of sale.

I do value originality, but I value reliability more. So that probably answers my question. Ha. I don't plan on having any huge electrical loads though, only non-stock item *might* be rally lights.

But, if I am to upgrade to an alternator setup, should I use a 140/160 alt, or will one of the GM delco ones bolt right in, with a 140/160 alternator bracket? or any other alternators that bolt right in? I know of a pretty good source of 140's/160's and parts, so I think that might be the best option, unless a newer unit will bolt right in.
 

AndrewNance

Amateur hour!
Joined
Oct 24, 2011
Location
Winston-Salem, NC
So I have a '68 Volvo 122s with a b18 and a generator that doesn't always like to charge. Most of the time it doesn't, but it has started charging at a couple points. It was actually charging pretty fine for awhile, but then just stopped.

So far I've only tested the voltage regulator, by shorting terminal df to ground for a second or two, and watching the voltage at d+ and ground. That didn't do anything. (I might be off on the terminal names, I can't remember for sure. I was following a troubleshooting guide on the swem site.)

So now the million dollar question: do I have the generator rebuilt, or do I forsake originality and fit an alternator? *apparently* the generator was recently professionally rebuilt, but I don't trust the previous owner as much as I did at the time of sale.

I do value originality, but I value reliability more. So that probably answers my question. Ha. I don't plan on having any huge electrical loads though, only non-stock item *might* be rally lights.

But, if I am to upgrade to an alternator setup, should I use a 140/160 alt, or will one of the GM delco ones bolt right in, with a 140/160 alternator bracket? or any other alternators that bolt right in? I know of a pretty good source of 140's/160's and parts, so I think that might be the best option, unless a newer unit will bolt right in.


I got the Swedish Embassy kit. It's $100 for everything you need minus the alternator. You supply that. It has wiring diagrams and instructions that are easy enough to follow. I'm not sure which blocks were pre-drilled for alternators but my '67 was not.

Basically the swap is based on the GM swap to a one-wire AC Delco alternator. Ron Kwas at sw-em.com was even able to provide several part numbers for alternators of different outputs that will work well. The only extra step I had to take was to install a diode so my original AMP light would work as it should. I also took this opportunity to install an aftermarket voltmeter. At idle it charges 13.5 volts and rises to 14-14.5 with the throttle depressed. Now I can run a radio, lights, wipers, and fan and STILL be above 12 volts.
 

LloydDobler

Active member
Joined
Mar 14, 2006
Location
PDX
Absolutely switch to an alternator. These cars are extremely reliable, upgrading to alternator makes it even more so.
 

malloy1

New member
Joined
Nov 9, 2003
Location
Denver CO
Buy it now for $35:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Alter...Parts_Accessories&hash=item564c1aba5d&vxp=mtr

$T2eC16ZHJHEE9ny2sY0KBQPrsF(0wg~~60_57.JPG
 

iwannadrive

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Location
Minneapolis, MN
does anyone have pictures of an alternator mounted on a '67 or '68 or later pushrod red block? apparently they already have alternator brackets? trying to wrap my head around how all this stuff bolts up.
 

Big Lan

Face in the carpet
Joined
Sep 11, 2005
Location
Setting stuff on fire
does anyone have pictures of an alternator mounted on a '67 or '68 or later pushrod red block? apparently they already have alternator brackets? trying to wrap my head around how all this stuff bolts up.

I've been meaning to take pictures of mine since I saw this, and I finally got around to doing it today. Excuse the ****ty cell phone pics:

IMAG0378_zpsba317516.jpg


IMAG0379_zps1af5e541.jpg


IMAG0380_zps3024353b.jpg


IMAG0381_zps1f06d90b.jpg
 

iwannadrive

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Location
Minneapolis, MN
I've been meaning to take pictures of mine since I saw this, and I finally got around to doing it today. Excuse the ****ty cell phone pics:

IMAG0378_zpsba317516.jpg


IMAG0379_zps1af5e541.jpg


IMAG0380_zps3024353b.jpg


IMAG0381_zps1f06d90b.jpg
thanks man!

drove the car down to winter storage on battery power a few days ago, but I'll be installing an alt setup, whether oem 140/160 or other, before I drive it home.
 

Dawson

Yes?
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Location
Hartford, CT
Popped a GM Denso into mine this summer. I basically ripped off Ron's (SwEm) design since I'm cheap and have a welder, but its been great so far! I think its 70 amps and holds 13.9 at idle. Compared to my 35 amp gen that didn't do squat below 1200 rpms.
 

iwannadrive

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Location
Minneapolis, MN
Popped a GM Denso into mine this summer. I basically ripped off Ron's (SwEm) design since I'm cheap and have a welder, but its been great so far! I think its 70 amps and holds 13.9 at idle. Compared to my 35 amp gen that didn't do squat below 1200 rpms.
that's kinda what I was thinking of doing... any pictures of the bracket/setup you made, by chance? I'm a bit confused as to how it's mounted differently than a stock alt, and how the bracketry is different than stock. I can weld and fabricate fine, I just don't have a welder yet, so I have to borrow a friends'. And I'm cheap too. Well, actually, more like just a broke college student with way too many cars. Ha.

I can get a 140/160 alt, voltage regulator, brackets and everything I need to fit it, for basically free, since I did some work for an old Volvo guy. But the reliability and condition of the alt would be a big question mark at 40 years old. So I don't know if I should just get one of those and maybe get it rebuilt, or go for the peace of mind of denso unit.
 

AndrewNance

Amateur hour!
Joined
Oct 24, 2011
Location
Winston-Salem, NC
that's kinda what I was thinking of doing... any pictures of the bracket/setup you made, by chance? I'm a bit confused as to how it's mounted differently than a stock alt, and how the bracketry is different than stock. I can weld and fabricate fine, I just don't have a welder yet, so I have to borrow a friends'. And I'm cheap too. Well, actually, more like just a broke college student with way too many cars. Ha.

I can get a 140/160 alt, voltage regulator, brackets and everything I need to fit it, for basically free, since I did some work for an old Volvo guy. But the reliability and condition of the alt would be a big question mark at 40 years old. So I don't know if I should just get one of those and maybe get it rebuilt, or go for the peace of mind of denso unit.

I'd just get the Denso and be done. They usually have a lifetime warranty too.
 

Big Lan

Face in the carpet
Joined
Sep 11, 2005
Location
Setting stuff on fire
More pictures, because more!

IMAG0385.jpg


IMAG0386.jpg


I didn't measure the shank of the bolt, but the head's a 3/4" hex.

Some pictures of the alternator, as compared to a Volvo Denso:

IMAG0387.jpg


IMAG0388.jpg


IMAG0391.jpg


Tragically, they don't swap like I was hoping. Not without a bunch of cutting and grinding, anyway.

The part # label from the 122 alt:

IMAG0383.jpg


I want to go to something internally regulated, myself, and I'm due for a pnp excursion, so I'll do a bit of yarding next weekend and see what I can come up with.
 

iwannadrive

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Location
Minneapolis, MN
awesome, thank you muchly! really appreciate it.

For a second I thought AL77X was the same part number as the alt on my 240 turbo, but on second thought I believe it was AL70X.

let me know if you find anything that works! or if you don't, it would be rad if you could possibly measure the offset from the alt pulley to the mounting faces... if that makes sense.
 

iwannadrive

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Location
Minneapolis, MN
found an image of a delco 10si alternator on a b18/b20(?), using the swedish embassy kit.

IMGP0750.JPG


looks pretty similar to the stock setup. I think I might just buy a 10si or 12si delco and do what I need to do to make it fit... shouldn't be too terribly tough.
 

Big Lan

Face in the carpet
Joined
Sep 11, 2005
Location
Setting stuff on fire
There's an SI alternator on my Grand Prix, maybe if I'm feeling saucy I'll pull it off and give it a test fit.

And here it is:

IMAG0392.jpg


Compared to the stock one:

IMAG0393.jpg


It sits about where the Denso does in relation to the crank and w/p pulleys. I didn't think to take a pic of the sides of them, sorry about that.

The pivot bolt on the B18 is a 1/2" shank, the one for the SI is about 3/8".

And, as measured by the finest Harbor Freight caliper and screwdriver (because my tools are scattered between a few different cities right now, and I couldn't find a more suitable straightedge), the distance from the front of the original alternator's pulley to the mounting face of its pivot point is 3".

The search continues...
 
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