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745 into Pickup

corivus said:
Your making me want to do this on the 740. I don't need more projects...
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They are more comfortable than 740 seats... :-)

Finished up the driver's seat & installed. Have to futz with the seat module some more - I clearly didn't fully lobotomize it like the passenger one.
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The covers look like they are loose on the bolsters, is that how it is, or is it just the pictures?

I think I saw someone using a steamer on job like this to take out the wrinkles and "shrink" the covers tight.
 
blkaplan said:
The covers look like they are loose on the bolsters, is that how it is, or is it just the pictures?

I think I saw someone using a steamer on job like this to take out the wrinkles and "shrink" the covers tight.
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he said this earlier "Passenger seat finished & installed. Still do have to heat & smooth the leather some more" I think he means he's going to steam them to shrink to fit.

lookforjoe said:
They are more comfortable than 740 seats... :-)

Finished up the driver's seat & installed. Have to futz with the seat module some more - I clearly didn't fully lobotomize it like the passenger one.
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Damnit stop tempting me... maybe once my electric ps fully installed.
 
blkaplan said:
The covers look like they are loose on the bolsters, is that how it is, or is it just the pictures?

I think I saw someone using a steamer on job like this to take out the wrinkles and "shrink" the covers tight.
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They are listed for S40/V50, Ridies.com doesn't have a listing for C30 - I was under the impression that the only difference was the C30 back release that is not present on S/V P1s. They definitely don't fit as snug as the CanadaSeatSkins version I bought years ago for my C30, and the cut is different on the bolsters. That said, in the pic above I hadn't yet pulled the seat back tight though to the rear panel. There is still more loose leather at the base of the back bolsters though. I'll have to look into using a steamer, I'm not going to be happy with them having all the wrinkles.

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Worked on finishing the details on the seats. Driver's seat I had to remove again & modify the backrest cushion base foam in order for the cover to pull together underneath

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Forward lip has to fold over & tuck into the rear panel channel
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I punched the ends & used tie wraps to hold the ends together - otherwise the forward lip wants to pull out of the channel
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done
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Added a cut out switch to the DS module - it's still quirky though. I've ordered a used seat module so I can lobotomize it the same way as the passenger side - that one works perfectly. Pretty sure I damaged the driver's one with all the initial probing/testing beyond the point where it will be reliable.
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Base wiring tidied up
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Working on a friends 220K mile '93 945T - has oil leaks all over the place, so I'm doing the 3 front seals (and timing belt), oil pan gasket & oil pickup tube orings, PCV box, breather drain tube (requires pan off the properly place the tube clear of the crank), distributor shaft seal & outer orings, dipstick tube oring, While its apart, doing the ancillary mount bushings, drive belts, AC repair, heater hose & valve relocation (improperly set in the past), and sundry odds & ends that come up on these.

Breather box was previously resealed - very badly
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Ancillary bushings all look like these
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Drive belts all look like this
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Whomever did the last T/belt, dropped a cover bolt INSIDE the cover - amazing it didn't throw the belt
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I keep a spare front cover, so I can install the two lower seals off the car, then press them the final 1/4" with the Volvo tools after the cover is on.
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distributor leaking from the inside (after much cleaning)
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had to make a tool to get the pin out
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rebuilt with new shaft seal & orings
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Also the distributor was missing the condensate trap to keep moisture out of the rotor & cap contact pins
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Still much more to go. Subframe bolts were all seized - took quite some time to get them free without damage, Harmonic damper was rusted on to the crank snout, so I had to order a new one.
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What a job! Looks like another example of "driven to failure". Shame that while you are in there, you could/should upgrade that accessory bracket to the NEW improved 94/95 version, which rigidly mounts the AC compressor. Half of those stupid isolation bushes go away.... and no more squealing AC belt! I might have one of those brackets left in my old RB hoard......

As always, nice work and excellent example of proper custom tools and "best practice" of the OE seal on the crank.
 
I'll have to research that bracket - the owner might be interested in upgrading it DTR - he's not planning on ever getting rid of this wagon.

'93 945T: Cleaned up the crank, cam & idler snouts, installed the front cover gasket & cover w/seals, then put the timing covers, tensioners & belt back on.
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acid etched some rusty bits, and painted them
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Today I also worked on another friends 2016 V60 - was due for the timing belt service. I replace the idler, tensioner and water pump as a matter of course, and the serpentine belt & tensioner, since everything has over 110K at this point
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This was nested inside the timing cover
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The job isn't quite as bad as on a C30/S40/V50 - there is more space beneath the frame rail to access the damper & crank gear. AC belt is fkd up - no tensioner or adjuster- you have to just cut the old one off & work the new one on by stretching it over the AC clutch
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Water pump came out with gasket intact - couldn't believe my luck on that!
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New parts back in, timing confirmed after several rotations by hand
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Back on the 93 945T:

Getting ready to drop the oil pan, I found that the oil cooler was leaking at the extension housing, and at the block. The trans cooler lines were all rusted, and had be spliced with hoses, so I removed all that and replaced the cooler lines with good used ones I had.
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Instead of the proper seals, someone had just siliconed the housing
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All cleaned up, new Volvo oring between cooler & extension (3547188), and for block connection (967343)
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Back in place, with new cooler hoses
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Used cooler lines - have to make a set fit - these are NA versions
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Dropped the pan, removed the oil pump & feed tube. The oring at the block end was pushed out - not surprising he had the oil warning light flickering
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removed the screen & cleaned that out also
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Back in with new orings (418360) and new breather drain tube (1306196) in place
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Had to replace the oil pan, that was rusted also. New FelPro gasket
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Looks like I'll be doing the rear main seal before too long also. I pushed it back in for now, I don't have to time address it until next month
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Put the 945 back together today - new breather box installed, manifold back on, etc., - running it to leak check, I found the oil cooler feed hard pipe was leaking - there was a piece of hose clamped on it, presumably it was seeping in the past, and my moving it around to replace the hoses killed it. Fortunately I had a Volvo EGR pipe (also SS, so won't rust out), which uses the same compression fitting, so I cut it down, bent it to shape & silver-soldered the drain & hose fitting to it.
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Rear main seal was pushed out, presumably clogged breather box. I pushed it back into place for now, no time to drop the trans to address it.

before
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Manifold support lock nut & washer were MIA - so I added those back
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Didn't make it to Montreal today. We left Syracuse, NY around 8:30 this morning, and crossed the Canadian border at about 10AM. When we stopped to clear customs, I could hear a knocking from the engine. After we cleared customs, I pulled over & immediately saw coolant pouring out the pass side of the motor, inside the timing cover. I pulled the top cover & it was evident that the belt was walking off the cam gears, apparently because the water pump shaft was now out of whack. I had to just add coolant & drive back over to the US side of the border, to avoid complications with getting towed. We drove just far enough to get into cell phone reception, and before I could pull over the engine shut down 😞 . If I had been able to pull over while the motor was still running, I wouldn't be looking at a cylinder head replacement, but it is what it is.


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3 hours later, we were finally picked up. Got home safely around 7;30pm. Tomorrow I'll take it apart & see how bad it is.

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I had changed the pump back in 2017 at 100K with the timing belt, idler and tensioner. The problem is the one I used was apparently an off brand "GMB" - not OEM which was Aisin or Hepu.

In this chassis, the engine has to be raised/lowered numerous times to access the hardware retaining the timing and water pump, then dropped as far as possible to actually remove the water pump from below. I also removed all the protecting covers as they were damaged by the belt running into them. Head is off, all valves hit, as indicated by marks in each piston. I can clean up the pistons. Bores look good.

Slight gear alignment issue. Pump seized
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GMB pump. This was replaced along with all the timing related stuff at 100K, so lasted about 45-50K miles. I have never seen the OEM Asin pumps fail, even when not replaced at the recommended 100K interval.
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The Gates "racing" belt is still intact - no way I'd reuse any of this, just not worth it.
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Valve contact markings on pistons
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Similar marking depth on each piston, intakes all hit harder
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Bores all look uniform
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#1 exhaust was leaking - didn't hear yet it though. Mistake on my part using exhaust studs that came with the Elevate K16 (Turbo) kit - easier to install, as they had an Allen key insert - clearly not the same strength as the Volvo studs, 3 snapped off & the rest were loose. Never had that happen with the OEM hardware. Lesson learned.
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Head casting numbers 31330903 AA , 6215-?
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Engine # 6906240 & serial# 4537539
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have you started looking into the VSS signal conversion to the Volvo tach? I think I'm going to finally tackle that if things are still slow at the shop this week. Well that or getting the wideband installed so I can start tuning.
 
corivus said:
have you started looking into the VSS signal conversion to the Volvo tach? I think I'm going to finally tackle that if things are still slow at the shop this week. Well that or getting the wideband installed so I can start tuning.
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I was just going to do the stock tach resistor mod I found on here, I had linked the thread in my 1st V8 conversion post, but the link is now dead.
 
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