745 into Pickup

[lookforjoe]

Removed the head guide dowels, borrowed a special puller for that operation. I also used a decking plate to clean up the block surface, and made a start on cleaning the pistons

Taped up the block deck to protect it whilst I clean up the pistons

I will be shipping my head to FL to get it refurbished. They charge 800 to do the whole job, including setting the valve clearances. The way this head is designed, the easiest way to do that is the shave the valve stem, not replace the $$ solid lifter buckets. The local machine shop wants $700-800 labor. Valves would cost me around $600 for the 20 valves, so it's a no brainer to send it out. Have to make a special crate to ship it, that took awhile

I tried to remove the cam sensor wheels off the back of the stock cams, no bueno. I damaged the exhaust cam getting it off. I don't need the cams, since I'm installing the higher performance Y21 Enem Cams, but still. The torx head bolts were seized in the cams. I'll have to replace both trigger wheels and the special bolts.

8658597 and 8658598

 

[blkaplan]

Those cam sensor bolts can be very stubborn.

 

[lookforjoe]

Those cam sensor bolts can be very stubborn.

Indeed! Doesn't help that the Torx inset is only T25 T30 (if I recall correctly) - hard to get leverage on the M8 shaft with that.

 

[lookforjoe]

More work on the 93 945T.

Still had some oil leaks - easier to detect with the worst offenders out of the way

Turbo oil drain tube is rotted out & weeping

Fortunately I had a pristine used one

Valve cover gasket seeping down the pass side

New Volvo 1378870 gasket

Lower crank seal looked like it was weeping, so I pulled the timing belt & crank damper/gear - I put too much grease on the lip

I reset the seal depth using the Volvo tool, to account for the wear lip.

Belly pan is secured by sheet metal screws - all the holes were oversized, so I drilled them out & installed M6 riv-nuts instead.

Car had been worked on by several ppl who were very rough with it - I had to repair both front door panels & pockets, and the glovebox supports

glovebox

D/S headlamp frame

Transmission leaks need to be addressed- looks like the OD solenoid is puking - that's the only thing higher up on the trans that can leak.

 

[Chico]

Thanks for documenting your work here. I’m slowly chipping away at a 93 945t and it’s nice to see a preview of some of the jobs that I’ll be getting around to, all in one place.

 

[lookforjoe]

Repairing a pair of black door panels - this will be a real miss-mash of interiors by the time I'm done.

The Black & Beige I feel is OK - the grey, not so much. Grey is the most common to find in good shape though.

Also added the throttle body from an earlier FI Volvo - this one has an idle bypass screw. The Regina system is designed to maintain an idle of around 600 rpm, which isn't great for keeping the alternator actually charging.

All the TB's still had the casting for the thumbscrew, long after it ceased to be used

I had the thumbscrew & housing, and a new seat o-ring & gasket even

 

[lookforjoe]

Repaired & fitted the black pass door panel.

 

[lookforjoe]

I'm kinda in limbo here - have to wait until the C30 is fixed before I can do anything on the 740.
I'm also going to San Jose on Friday to visit with my son, then on to Las Vegas to see my Aunt.

I cleaned up the Pistons on the C30, while I'm waiting for the head. Probably won't get it back until into the 2nd week of November.

Futzing with odds & ends - changing details on the door panels. Grey carpet inserts, black speaker grilles .

 

[corivus]

I know this feeling I'm in limbo with the 740 on a few fronts at the moment.

 

[lookforjoe]

Meet with "Overdrive" today & got some cleaner parts for my pickup. No rust Hood, and both front doors, headlight trim & brackets, and various interior odd & ends

Washed all the tree mung. Just need to polish it.

Door panels, sill covers, center console. I'll swap out the black for these.

doors seams are perfect, no rust

headlamp trim

Air guides are in great shape - unlike my earlier style

Front fenders were also dent & rust free, so I got those as well. Can't pass on great condition sheet metal

 

[lookforjoe]

Had a hand today to get the 2 doors on. Removed the moldings & cleaned them up, installed the moldings from the old doors. Have to swap over the white door handles, rewire the passenger door harness connector, clean up the door panels, drill & mount the grab handles

I'm not planning on repainting the truck, but maybe I'll paint the window frame blue/green

Transferred the lock cylinder & added the keyless entry motor & linkage I had added to the old door

 

[corivus]

Had a hand today to get the 2 doors on. Removed the moldings & cleaned them up, installed the moldings from the old doors. Have to swap over the white door handles, rewire the passenger door harness connector, clean up the door panels, drill & mount the grab handles

I'm not planning on repainting the truck, but maybe I'll paint the window frame blue/green

Transferred the lock cylinder & added the keyless entry motor & linkage I had added to the old door

how is it holding up for opening and closing?

my two rear doors have developed a quirk this past year (prob because of the accident) where they will function fine if you open them from the inside. But the second you use the central locking you have to go back from the inside and open them while holding up on the door lock.

 

[lookforjoe]

Only had a few hours today, so after I repinned the pass door harness, I replaced the pass seat belt (wasn't retracting properly), upholstered the B pillar trim & added foam inside to help dampen noise, made a filler foam piece to fill the floor gap between the seat frame and sill cover, created by the narrower C30 seat frame

These B pillar covers were from a V90, and have tweeters in them. Turns out the car harness in mine is pre-wired for tweeters

At some point I will re-upholster the C pillar trim, when I did those I didn't let the glue setup long enough to conform to the compound curves.

Grey sill cover - black visible under the seat switch is the mat/foam filler I added

 

[lookforjoe]

how is it holding up for opening and closing?

my two rear doors have developed a quirk this past year (prob because of the accident) where they will function fine if you open them from the inside. But the second you use the central locking you have to go back from the inside and open them while holding up on the door lock.

The keyless entry works by activating the driver's door central lock switch, which unlocks all the others.

I'm not entirely clear what you mean - if you unlock the door with the key, which activates the C/lock, your back doors don't unlock?

 

[lookforjoe]

Drilled & fitted the door grab handles.

Installed the grey passenger door panel (kept some beige bits) after I swapped over the lock cylinder and outer door handle. I think I'm happier with this than the black panel. I may still repair & repaint the original beige panel.

 

[corivus]

The keyless entry works by activating the driver's door central lock switch, which unlocks all the others.

I'm not entirely clear what you mean - if you unlock the door with the key, which activates the C/lock, your back doors don't unlock?

So if you open either of the rear doors they will function fine when attempting to open from the outside handle. the moment you use the central locking switch to lock and then unlock the doors the rear doors will not open from the outside. you have to open them from the inside and they will work again.

 

[lookforjoe]

So if you open either of the rear doors they will function fine when attempting to open from the outside handle. the moment you use the central locking switch to lock and then unlock the doors the rear doors will not open from the outside. you have to open them from the inside and they will work again.

Hey Corey - that suggests that the lock motors are 'lazy' and are not actually releasing/actuating the linkage to the fully unlocked position. All 4 receive the same signal voltage. It is unlikely to be a wiring problem, IMO. More likely the linkage at the latch/lock needs lubrication, or the motors are weak. If you remove a rear door panel & operate the c/lock you will be able to observe the linkage/lock movement, that should help determine the cause.

I would start with lubrication of the latch/lock & possible adjustment of the inner release linkage - unless the motor is dead. The motor (5) is mounted onto the latch (1), so that's where you have to look for movement.

 

[corivus]

yeah I'm just waiting to get the spare time here to do it, this morning I had time to test one of the sunroof motors i brought with me and found that it was no good, so now to check the other 3...

 

[lookforjoe]

Finishing details on the driver's side. Replaced tired seat belt (frayed webbing), installed B pillar cover, sill cover & door panel

Installed the later air guides behind the grille & the white headlamp moldings. Definitely feeling a white stripe above the moulding that will tie the headlamp strip to the tailgate

 

[2 old for this]

You need to get a Linker. I can start mine from any where that has Wi-Fi