745 into Pickup

[lookforjoe]

located another tailgate. Had to remove glass & chop it up ahead of time - won't fit in my C30 otherwise. I left enough meat to work the cap as per StiggyPop

After washing the bay, the engine wouldn't start. Turned out, washing it killed the coil. On the backside, the epoxy is all cracked, so obviously water got it. The used one I got has minor cracking, so I'll cut it back & re-epoxy the backside before moisture gets in.

Since I had the parts, I added cruise whilst I was under the dash adding vacuum line for the turbo gauge that will be going along with the +T in eventually. Had to dig around for the harnesses - it's been at least 15 years since I worked on a 700 series.

brain & pedal switch.

pump

stalk

vacuum

got a late wider rad & IC - not sure if this one fits.

turbo/manifold

some of the hoses

Used IPD bars set & crossmember brace

 

[lookforjoe]

Ordered a pair of Beige S2000 seats -

I have them in my X1/9, so I know the form factor worked for me, and they are leather, which is the only covering I am willing to live with.

Test fitting one from the X in the wagon. Just have to make some simple rails as the Honda seat sits inboard of the stock mount points. I'll probably adapt the Volvo rails, as otherwise it's a touch on the low side

 

[lookforjoe]

Going to cut the Honda rails & morph the seat frame with the Volvo setup. Will make my life much easier, this way I can set the seat height appropriately.

Honda rail centers in Volvo frame

 

[lookforjoe]

Seats arrived yesterday afternoon - have to give them a good saddle-soap cleanup & start on the seat rail mod

Color is not as warm as the Volvo seats, but closer to that of the bleaching that happens with the carpet, door panels & dash

I can't stand touching vinyl - so since I can't fit the 960 leather wheel I ordered a Momo wheel & hub same as the one I had in my V70 XC
.

 

[lookforjoe]

Worked on the seats today -pouring rain & cold, so couldn't work outside

chopped off a section of the stock seat frame

cut the rails off the Honda seat frames

Volvo seat frame is approx 6 inches to base of cushion, so I'm shooting for similar height

checking alignment of Volvo/Honda sections, this way I retain the Volvo side-impact protection

tacked the two together to check fit in the car

fits OK, no binding or uneven seating

Couldn't have set the upper seat frame any lower on the Volvo base - the seat belt wouldn't clear the back adjuster (all the nasties will be cleaned thoroughly before final assembly )

Seat pocket will fit to cover up the seat frame

Volvo frame has a double wall - so the inner skin will be welded to the Honda rail also

Driver's seat has the manual height adjuster, will need some work to modify the operating lever, set it underneath

DS frame tacked & test fit

Pocket will cover base

I'll modify the Honda cover to fit the seat back adjuster

 

[lookforjoe]

Seat tubs seam welded & DS tub modded to accept the height adjuster lever

 

[lookforjoe]

Finished welding the tub are after work, and trimmed the hinge cover to clear the seat belt. Next I need to play with the seat pocket to fit

edit

Seat pocket modded. Fits reasonably well as such

This one was cracked, so I figured it as template - I can cut another a little tighter to the forward part of the hinge cover & not have stuff fall in between the pocket & cover..

 

[lookforjoe]

Worked on modding the fuel feed to the rail for the +T. Instead of adding some random old Dodge FPR to the Regina rail, I'm using a FPR pod from a V70. Stock rail feed will go the inlet, quick connect (7.89/6mm) is for the return, and the feed goes to the stock rail inlet. FPR is an adjustable version sold for VW/Audi applications. I'll cap the FPR port in the rail.

After that, changed the frozen lower column ujoint

and the rusted out horns

chopped up a n 850 slash, and made it fit the egg crate

 

[lookforjoe]

Plates came, so I actually drove the car for the first time on the street. Grumble/howl from L/F & ABS light came on

Basically EVERYTHING is worn - not a surprise really, w/216K. Much of the suspension is original, besides the cartridges (!)

I have good adjustable Koni's from my BNE setup off the old wagon, so I'll put those up front along with new everything else

 

[ermit71]

Awesome work!

 

[lookforjoe]

Waiting for front end parts...

Pulled the nose off in the meantime.

cut and modded the single headlamp brackets to fit the offset of the eCode lamps

trimmed the cover panel to fit the egg crate/headlamps

Also fitted the painted bumper cover

Chopped off the dead preheat BS. Air box will go away when I do the +T anyway

 

[lookforjoe]

Cleaned up & reinstalled the control arms, caster rods, end links, IPD sway bar, Bilstein strut inserts, bump stops & sleeves, strut plates & bearings, backplates, brake hoses, calipers, rotors, pads

 

[lookforjoe]

Right side all back together, had to also change the ABS sensor on this side

Started modding the fuel rail for the +T - cut off the FPR bung, will be welding this 1/8" NPT bung so I can install a fuel pressure gauge in it's place

 

[lookforjoe]

Did the left rear brake line, caliper, pads, rotors & hardware, eBrake shoes and springs. Main cable is still good, no damage to coating. Right cable broken & pivot ripped off the axle tab as per usual on these. So far all brake lines have been frozen & required heating with torch to get them free.

coated the backplate with rust convertor

Heavy duty spring & Bilstein shock installed. Still have to do the right side

silver-soldered the NPT bung to the rail - will look like this in place

 

[lookforjoe]

Right rear brake line flare stripped, even after careful heating . Had to make a repair section. Fortunately I saved lines off the S40 parts car, so I has a section of line and spare male/female fittings to join it

Had to borrow this tool - the Volvo line is 4.75mm, my tool only does American sizes. Hydraulic tool is way easier to use than the clamp-in-vice generic variety I have.

 

[Alex Mcknz]

Great progress that you have there, I am sure that modifying this vehicle is never easy. I am excited to see the outcome.

 

[lookforjoe]

Awesome work!

Great progress that you have there, I am sure that modifying this vehicle is never easy. I am excited to see the outcome.

Thank you. It's gonna be a long thread - I'll be doing all the mechanical work first (stage zero, +T, engine & trans oil coolers, LH24 conversion, etc) before the body work. Just waiting for the wife's broken foot to heal so we can get back to the work on our house. Once that is done, I'll start on chopping up the body, following Stiggypop's process.

Fixed the SRS fault, clear the codes, then bypassed the airbag to fit the Momo wheel / hub

1.8 ohm resistor

trimmed back the locator tabs

tie wrapped to hub

done

 

[lookforjoe]

Gathering exhaust parts for the +T

wired the left & right Ecode park/directionals, and included wiring to the Ecode side markers in the fenders

made a problem for myself by adding a relay for front fogs without checking the wiring diagram - I didn't realize it was anything special. As a result, it created a dead short on the Y-W wire from the headlamp relay to the headlamp switch and the radio illumination. I had to open up the harness & make sure no other wires were damaged. Thankfully not, so I ran a new Y-W wire from the HL switch to the radio, bridged to the HL relay as original. Ran the new wire inside the sleeve to keep it original. 9130020 is the appropriate relay for this application.

while I had the cluster out I switched out the tach for the turbo version - not showing vacuum here - I hadn't connected the line to the manifold yet

 

[lookforjoe]

Did a few maintenance items - engine breather, IACV, couple vacuum fittings. Then I ran the harness for the AEM WBO2 over to the pass side, I'll need that when I add the turbo setup.

routed through the bulkhead & along the stock harness

While I had the under dash apart I added a 4x40W amp (1389615) from a 760. I also have to fault trace the cruise - it doesn't work, May just be the 3523880 module - apparently that version is prone to malfunction. I have a 9130207 module that I thought was from a different era, however it is apparently a viable update to the 3523880 - so I'll try just swapping that out first

EDIT - problem was just the vacuum supply at the pump -I had it connected incorrectly

 

[2turbotoys]

Nice work!