• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

745 into Pickup

damn you need one of those dish space heaters otherwise everything will go into hibernation mode. Also the cord protectors for Christmas lights are great to keep moisture away from the sockets....61PgZBaac4L._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
damn you need one of those dish space heaters otherwise everything will go into hibernation mode. Also the cord protectors for Christmas lights are great to keep moisture away from the sockets....
Problem here is I'm doing the C30 in my driveway - it has gone on far longer than expected, & now the weather/temp is tanking. Now I have to wait for the new fuel line, that could easily be a week wait.

Anyhow, I'll try & get everything else back together. Have to drop the DP as one retaining bolt snapped at the turbo flange... that's kind of thing that is not fun to do in a cold & windy driveway :(

Screenshot_20241205-140554.png
 
Not sure if I brought this up in any threads here on TB - my wife & I have been looking at moving to Ithaca, NY for some years. Now I'm retired from my day job (the Mrs. works remotely, so moving doesn't affect her work) we have been looking in ernest since the summer.

After quite a few trips & let downs, we have found a place that makes us both happy, and has space for my 84yr old Mum to move in with us. It's in the downtown area, so walking to everything is an option, and box stores & supermarkets are all within a couple miles, along with great countryside, parks, etc. We were hoping to not have to move in the winter, however this place could not be let slip by. Our offer was accepted, so projected closing is end of Feb/early Mar

index.php


index.php


What makes it ideal for me - former carriage house, level driveway :)
index.php


Has no doors or electricity, so that is job one. The house needs work, but nothing we can't address while we are in it
index.php
 
Last edited:
Congratulations on the beautiful new home!!

It’s hard to find gaps in the weather to work outside this time of year, and not fun when everything is so cold - keep chipping away at the C30, you’re so close to finishing!
 
congratulations on the new home! its really lovely, my wife's friends keep trying to get us to move east and most of the homes they have shown us are 1 car garages that look more like 1/2 car storage sheds. a carriage home is a solid find in my book

hopefully there are some breaks in the weather for you to get the c30 put back on the road.
 
Temp up into the 40's today, and no rain so I got work done on the C30.

Removed & cut back the damaged fuel line, removed the down pipe & added an additional O2 bung for the WBO2 controller I'm adding. Re-installed the DP, after cleaning up the DP threads. Got more of the intake side back together.
index.php


double clamped at the repair
index.php


Left WBO2 is for the controller, right is for the EMS
index.php


index.php
 
Had enough time this morning before the rain started to finish up the C30, check fluids & add the WBO2 controller to the dash
index.php


3D printed parts from Byneset Custom - same fella that makes the double-din for the 700

index.php


index.php

index.php

Mileage at head repair 116090
index.php

index.php
 
Last edited:
Had some teething issues. Heater hose blew off the bulkhead fitting, I can only presume I hadn't fully seated it before rotating the locking tab (grey ring at end of hose fitting). Fortunately this happened within 1/4 mile of the house, as it pumps the coolant out very fast. The problem was it was pumping it onto the turbo hot side, and since I was doing high rev hard shifts 1-3rd to shake it out, the coolant caught fire(?). I could see the flames coming off the turbo heat shield. when I popped the hood to see where all the smoke was coming from. I put it out quickly & no damage seems to have resulted, besides my being very shook up by the event.
index.php
 
Additional issue. Clutch pedal now sits high (again after the spirited 1-3rd run). Something popped, in the pedal mechanism. It's not a straightforward pedal, there is an over-center mechanism, and the clutch master is integrated into the pedal assembly(!)

Clutch sitting much higher than the brake & gas
index.php


I replaced the over-center mechanism, as it seemed like the center rod was broken. While I was under there, I took a pic of the pedal & where the push rod is supposed to be attached, it's just flapping in the breeze. It's supposed to be attached to the white clip visible above it
index.php

#8 is the white clip. The #4 sub-assembly is NOT sold separately.
index.php


index.php


For the time being I added a puck to prevent the pedal coming so far over center
index.php
 
Last edited:
Found pics of the linkage on PelcianParts. They have directions on replacing it. Steering column has to be removed, as well as airbag/steering wheel & instrument cluster. Not going to be a fun one
Screenshot 2024-12-15 at 10.10.19 PM.png


So, what broke on mine is the link arm ball end - that's what would stop the pedal from coming up over center more than the designed height, and contribute to the pedal not returning properly.
index.php
 
It seems you are a very meticulous person so I doubt this would work for you, but it seems like there is a semi permanent/hackery way to do that besides removing the column. Could you not hose clamp and/or drill through the affected area and put a bolt through to prevent it from walking?
 
- Weather turned in my favor today - didn't start raining until dusk, and was quite warm, so I took advantage of that to dismantle the C30 for the clutch master cylinder.
airbag & steering wheel out
index.php


Steering column out
index.php


directions neglected to mention this connector stuffed upon inside the column..
index.php

index.php


index.php


cluster also out
index.php


index.php


Decent amount of space to access the pedal bracket mount points (4) - but.... there is no way to withdraw the pedal assembly with the master cylinder attached. so, one has to pull the pedal bracket away from the firewall , then somehow get channel locks on the MC & rotate it clockwise (as seen from engine bay) to release it from the pedal assembly. The push rod normally has to be also released from the pedal itself, but since mine is broken there, that is already addressed. With that, the MC can be pulled out from behind the pedal assy., and then the pedal assy can also be removed. Going to be fun going back together. I'm considering drilling out the fixed pedal pivot, as this would be easier to install if the pedal could go in separately from the bracket & MC.
index.php

index.php
 
Last edited:
Working on the C30 - Drilled out the fixed pedal pivot & drilled & tapped the bushing to M6x1 at either end. This way I can install the Clutch master & the bracket as one, then install the pedal after.
index.php

index.php

index.php


Either these M10 head or the Torx SEMS screws with loctite
index.php

index.php
 
Last edited:
Back on the C30 - New clutch master arrived yesterday - normally only takes 2 days via USPS from CT, this one took over a week. Anyway, the weather has not been conducive to working outside, either way too cold or snowing. Today it was sunny & 34º, so I took advantage of that to put the car back together
new MC
Sold under Sachs brand - unit is the same manufacturer as originally installed - FTE - just with metal rod instead of the plastic mine had
index.php


index.php


test fit in painted backet
index.php


So, the bracket & MC cannot be installed as one, even without the pedal in play. I had to insert the MC in the firewall opening first, then position the pedal bracket, then set/lock the MC in the bracket.
Left side mount points are tricky to access
index.php

Pedal set in bracket
index.php

Link rod bushing set into pedal
index.php


With that located, I attached the hydraulic line, feed tube & switch connector
index.php

Immobilizer switch harness routed
index.php

Over-center mechanism in place - I used a tie wrap to hold the spring compressed, then set the mechanism & cut the tie wrap
index.php
index.php


Then I bled the clutch - had to remove the airbox, and the rad hose/engine harness support bracket to access the bleeder
index.php

With the bleeder valve open, I drop the tube into a container of brake fluid & stroke the pedal until there is resistance, checking the fluid level & topping it off after a few strokes.
index.php

After that I re-installed the steering column & shroud, under dash panelling, instrument cluster, surround, steering wheel & airbag.
Finally, I forgot to remove the set screw I used to locate the airbag contact reel spring, so I just cut it short. Not going to hurt anything as is.
index.php
 
Last edited:
Good Lord! Well, those Engineers made certain it was possible, with little regard to ease/serviceability. More proof for lamenting the loss of RWD machines......
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Dan
Good Lord! Well, those Engineers made certain in was possible, with little regard to ease/serviceability. More proof for lamenting the loss of RWD machines......
Indeed!!
I have zero intention of buying anything newer than my C30. I am planning on buying another Silver 745 though - (90, 16V original condition, stored in a heated garage for the past 18 years), hopefully picking it up from Ohio in the late spring
 
Back
Top