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77 244 Going for Junkyard TB Glory

CAPT_BLOTTO

#Crush It
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Location
Kansas City
So I purchased this Mustard Yellow 77 244 after looking for an early 240 for nearly a year. This one fit all my criteria of being a sedan stripped out model with no a/c or power steering, as well as manual. So in the Fall of 2016 I flew out to Colorado and bought it sight unseen at the airport and drove it home. Overdrive didn't work but drove home great. Starting when cold was a big problem so I hotwired the cold start injector.

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I drove it for a short while before the winter and salt came. Next summer I tried to start it and it was puking coolant, barely would start, and was running pretty poorly even when it did start. So that's when I decided to start all over and build it with all the parts I had just lying around or available to me in the local junkyards. And everyone that knows me knows how I live in the junkyards. So began Phase 1: The pure junkyard build.

PHASE I
So Phase 1 consists of as purely* junkyard parts as I could get.
Junkyard sourced 93 b230ft squirter block from a 940. Completely untouched bottom end
Junkyard m46 from a 240 because I couldn't use the old m46 that came with the car
Junkyard clutch and flywheel unknown miles
Hand ported 530 head with stock valves and springs. Porting kit bought at harbor freight
RSI Stage 2 cam although new was bought from RSI instead was traded for a set of junkyard C70 speakers and amp
Running LH 2.4 and ezk with TLAO chips that was from the 92 volvo 940 project car that I bought just to part out
90+ mani from junkyard or the 940
K24 turbo from a wrecked V70R in the junkyard. Reclocked and modified slightly to work with the red block.
*IPD k24 vband adapter
Home made down pipe made with parts of various junkyard pipes.
*3 inch exhaust with the cheapest thrush muffler from amazon.
Stock 240 intercooler and 7/9 pipes modified
S70 T5 injectors
*AEM wideband bought new from amazon
Boost gauge from the 940 I parted
*Sitting on 16" BBS RS 16" wheels with Bridgestone Potenzas
*New gaskets and seals for engine
*Ipd 8mm plug wires
Nardi vintage wood wheel found in a 70's Jaguar XJ12

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Results were a Dyno pull of 184 whp and 263 ft lbs of torque on a broken wastegate actuator and only making around 5 psi.

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Phase II
Phase II is moving into the new parts section beyond the limitations of the stock junkyard parts. But a lot of this is "old school" TB style.

First step is to fix that wastegate with an aftermarket T3 style and bracket that TLAO made.
Rx-7 front calipers with 940 vented rotors
Getrag 5 speed swap to hold more power than the m46.
Upgraded clutch for the getrag swap
STS Machining flat flywheel
Larger and modified 2" driveshaft
Redo the exhaust with a better muffler, proper exhaust dump, and better supports to stop breaking studs on the turbo
Microsquirt
Eaton trutrac diff locker and a better ratio
Maybe some suspension upgrades still figuring that out
 

CAPT_BLOTTO

#Crush It
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Location
Kansas City
What's odd about it? It's reclocked and a few other things I was going to document. If you look up a Volvo K24 turbo on google they look about the same.
 

CAPT_BLOTTO

#Crush It
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Location
Kansas City
Headwork

From using cross sections and guides read online I used a die grinder and kit from harbor freight to port the head as well as a little bit of the exhaust manifold. I do recommend from experience to get a really good compressor. Mine could not keep up which slowed down the process considerably. Its very time consuming but it is sort of relaxing in a way. You just slowly work the metal to get the shape and the finish appropriate for what you're working on. I polished the exhaust and combustion chambers and let a rougher finish on the intake. Turned out pretty well I think.

Make sure you protect the valve seats too. I stuck old valves in to keep them from getting damaged.

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CAPT_BLOTTO

#Crush It
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Location
Kansas City
K-jet B21 to LH B230f+t

With this being such an early 240 a lot of information was scarce and not a lot of changes were documented.

Ripping out the b21 wasn't bad.
And I started putting together the squirt block. Replaced all the gaskets and sprayed some cleaner on the piston tops as well as the sides of the block.
Aux shaft from a junkyard 240 to run the block distributor

BE CAREFUL when torquing down the cover on the aux shaft and crank. The bolts break easily and then you have to wait for a machine shop to get it out. Ask me how I know.

The early M46 will not work with LH 2.4. The bell housings are different and not interchangeable. I also had to swap the output flanges for the smaller driveshaft. They are interchangeable though. With it being an early M46 it does take some wiring work to make OD work. The later cars are setup for the self canceling push button OD. I had to buy a new shift knob and slider switch and wire it in. However the early shifters don't interchange with the later gearboxes due to a change in diameters. And the early knobs won't slide on a later shifter. So I had the machinists at work turn down the inside of the knob so it would slide on. Now it works like a charm!

Now onto the LH 2.4 With the early car there's only a small fuse panel so I made a small expansion panel and some relays for the LH and fuel pump. A piece of ABS sheet and some various parts from amazon gave me plenty for what I need. The power for the fuse block is fused and comes straight off the B+ dist block by the headlight relay. I followed a guide on TB for the wiring and there's a few switched Red and red/white wires for that go to the under glove box connector coming from the engine harness. The last thing was wiring to the fuel pump. The early cars have the relay up way behind the left hand kick panel. There's a yellow wire IIRC that goes into the fuse wiring. The problem is in the 70s it seems Volvo only had access to 4 colors of wires. So through trial and error I found the wire that powers the fuel pump and wired to the new fuse panel.

Another recommendation is ALWAYS use plenty of zip ties, clips, etc to hold your hanrness on. Mine fell off the second time I was driving and melted to the downpipe. It melted through the AMM and a few other sensor wires and kept blowing fuses. I ended up needing a whole new harness and a new AMM. Stupid mistake, but maybe others can learn from it.

Oil cooler in a 240 was a pain. I didn't want to use the 240 style since those don't make oil changes any easier and clearance was already an issue in the area. The 740 ones that don't have coolant going through was the easiest. I could not seem to find the correct fittings to use the original oil cooler and it didn't want to mount by the battery with the intercooler and other pieces in the way. I ended up just cutting up some of the solid lines and uses high pressure oil hose with clamps on either end. I mounted it behind the grille on the sheetmetal that goes in front of the intercooler. The lines were routed underneath the RH headlight where an A/C line would normally go. So far it has been working out. No leaks.

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Matt86

New member
Joined
Nov 24, 2012
Location
Woodstock, GA
Awesome build. This is something I've always wanted to do...a pure junkyard build...no shiny new parts.... Good luck!
 

DET17

Reformed SAABaholic
Joined
Nov 1, 2009
Location
NW Georgia
Great boneyard build! HotRod used to build engines they dubbed "Junkyard Jewels"..... you are true to their intent. Low coinage & sweat, and they always wrapped with the dyno data.

What cam, stocker T?

Pics of your trouble with the oil cooler? I helped my son fit a true 240 TIC oiler cooler & and lines to his 92 940 Turbo engine in his 89 245, and it bolted up with minimal issues. He was used a cut down 9 series E-fan, but the Setrab coiler bolted right up to the 89 sheet metal.

"I am also, loving this build......."
 

CAPT_BLOTTO

#Crush It
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Location
Kansas City
Pictures of the oil cooler setup.

IMG_20180407_180825 by Brandon Porter, on Flickr

IMG_20180407_180829 by Brandon Porter, on Flickr

IMG_20180407_180831 by Brandon Porter, on Flickr

IMG_20180407_180902 by Brandon Porter, on Flickr

Oil feed for turbo, oil pressure sender, and the oil cooler lines.

IMG_20180407_180914 by Brandon Porter, on Flickr

Oil feed is a 45? AN adapter for the tight clearance.

IMG_20180407_180921 by Brandon Porter, on Flickr

Thin jam nuts for the valve cover hidden underneath brass acorn nuts. The acorn nuts are so soft they are basically hand tightened. Looks good though.

IMG_20180407_180926 by Brandon Porter, on Flickr


Fuse/Relay board under the glove box. Still needs a little better cable management and tidying.
IMG_20180407_181058 by Brandon Porter, on Flickr

Main power is fused right off the B+ junction
IMG_20180407_181039 by Brandon Porter, on Flickr

AMM relocated to other side of the engine bay
IMG_20180407_181037 by Brandon Porter, on Flickr

Had to modify the firewall slightly for the LH harness. Unplugged because the exhaust and O2 sensors are off the car right now.
IMG_20180407_180928 by Brandon Porter, on Flickr


5 wires to make the Harness work

IMG_20180407_181102 by Brandon Porter, on Flickr

Here's the junkyard MR2 seat. I wouldn't recommend swapping these seats. They're essentially backwards of the 240 seats and required a lot of extra fabbing, cutting, and drilling to make it fit. I've only done the driver's side so far and it's really sturdy. I added extra reinforcements to keep them safe.

IMG_20180407_181118 by Brandon Porter, on Flickr
 

CAPT_BLOTTO

#Crush It
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Location
Kansas City
Microsquirt and PNP harness came in the mail yesterday. New flowmaster muffler came. V band and flex joint come today.

Had a little trouble installing the RX-7 calipers. I didn't realize there was two version of the 940 rotors. They're kinda like the 302 mm rotors on P80s. The brakes threw me off because the'yre different for 75-77. So instead of undoing the soft lines just reuse all the lines and use the old line in the new caliper.

After that is the getrag swap to tackle.
 

DET17

Reformed SAABaholic
Joined
Nov 1, 2009
Location
NW Georgia
Sure hope all of your crimped electrical connectors last long term..... I converted to the " crimp tinned copper connector, solder, heatshrink" as per the gospel of MADELECTRICAL.com. Guy with 40 plus years building harnesses and upgrading vehicles to EFI, racing background. I think you can download his "how to make connections" for free.

More time consuming for sure, but long haul reliable.

Carry on, I like the MR2 seat!
 
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