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850/960 etc. A/C clutch quick fix

heh. I haven't had time to check, going to vacuum the pool and might rig up enough stuff to find out. the wagon is still in a sad state right now :-(

it definitely took up all the slack but left enough for the pulley to spin freely un-engaged, so if that's what the goal was I expect it to have worked rather swimmingly.
 
it appears to have worked. I rev'd it in neutral and it didn't start screaming. last time it was working if the rpms rapidly increased or got above 3k it would start to howl and stop functioning. more extensive testing is required, but right now it all looks good.
 
incidentally, I did this on the 940 last night with welding wire (.035), as an experiment. I can't say that it's fixed my problem yet (haven't gotten everything buttoned up enough to try), but it greatly reduced the gap, so I have high hopes.

did the same thing on my wife's 94 940. has the older compressor in it....still worked.
 
Ok I did this mod on the style compressor kenny has too and it worked. I drove the car 120 miles @ 80 mph after that and no issues.
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i suppose it's a quick fix for more cars than i initially thought.

that's good it's working for you guys, i know i gotta have my a/c for the summer.
 
yep. with the 100+ degree weather we've been having, it's nice to have that working. spent all weekend sorting out other bs climate issues as well.
 
I posted this in a thread I started, but I think it makes sense to ask it here rather than there.

Why would a clutch with this issue engage for 10 minutes, and then shut off every time? I'm curious about the dynamics of the issue. Is something moving down there that expands with engine heat? If so, wouldn't the engine have to cool before it will engage again?

I'm curious as to why this happens.
 
I dunno on these other ones, mine slipped non-stop so it wasn't an intermittent thing. in fact, for me, this was kind of a last-ditch effort before replacing the compressor, it just happens to have worked out really well.
 
Heat will change the characteristics of the magnetic strength of the coil, flexibility of the metal straps, and as things expand or contract, how wide the gap may be. Everything combines into 1 issue. I had the same issue you described in your other thread in the wife's 850R until I fixed the gap, been happy for 3 years now.
 
Heat will change the characteristics of the magnetic strength of the coil, flexibility of the metal straps, and as things expand or contract, how wide the gap may be. Everything combines into 1 issue. I had the same issue you described in your other thread in the wife's 850R until I fixed the gap, been happy for 3 years now.

Thanks for the info. I was thinking it had to heat related, but not sure how it could be.
 
i think it's similar to safety wire, it would certainly serve the same purpose. i've always called it mechanics wire. we just use it to hang calipers up out of the way when doing suspension work or to drag wiring harnesses through places you can't get to easily.

i think it's actually called mechanics wire though. you can use whatever as long as it bridges the gap and it's strong enough to hold. i'll have to see what gauge mechanics wire i've been using to do this so i can share on here.

110-500-007.JPG
 
Well, I discovered that it ain't the gap. Wired it up but it's something else.

The a/c comes on, stays cold for about 10 minutes, and then stops. I can prolong the agony by turning off the a/c off before it shuts off, leave it off for 10 minutes, and then get another 10 minutes out of it.
 
I'm going to try this on a 2000 v70 (FWD).
What is the best way to access the compressor? (From the top there is clearly not enough room to work.) And what is the minimum parts that have to be removed to gain the access?
 
Is mechanics wire the same as safety wire?

Real Safety wire is usually stainless steel IME, and you should use safety wire pliers to use it.

Mechaincs wire is usually soft steel wire
 
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