88 LH2.2 Chrysler ignition. What can I do to it?

[HiSPL]

Just dropping this here for later when I have time to work on it:

Primary resistance: 0.5 to 0.9 ohms
Secondary resistance: 6.0 to 9.5 K-ohms

Also, I put a (factory) tach in this thing which was the last bit of work I did before the miss started. This just dawned on me right now.

Where is the tach signal driven from? The ignitor?

 

[dl242gt]

On the chrysler ignition cars the rpm signal comes from the coil. If I recall correctly. There should be a white wire and a white/red wire on terminal 1 of the coil. The white red is the signal wire.

 

[2manyturbos]

NM, it's a Chrysler module but with the Bosch style connector at the hall sensor.

Probably normal for an 88, but I read "Bosch" on the trouble shooting chart and got excited for a second.


I cleaned and reconnected all the plugs. Most were in fine shape, but the 2 pin plug that goes to the coil fell apart. Its well together now, and still no change. Only thing I see is that wiggly connector for the hall sensor. Or maybe its the hall sensor itself, but being pretty internittant I;m not sure how to test it.

That is definitely a Bosch distributor. The connector is broken. It should be solid on the distributor housing. That is typical at this point with the age of the plastic. What you are describing are the typical symptoms of a failing hall sensor. They are not that expensive. Just replace it.

 

[HiSPL]

That is definitely a Bosch distributor. The connector is broken. It should be solid on the distributor housing. That is typical at this point with the age of the plastic. What you are describing are the typical symptoms of a failing hall sensor. They are not that expensive. Just replace it.

Thank you!

I was hoping somebody would jump in say something like this.

 

[HiSPL]

Welp. The dizzy pick up wasn't my problem. Waited a week to get it, installed and no difference. I guess I'll start looking at unlikely sources next. Check my fuel pressure, take the throttle body apart and clean it real good. I do have a new fuel check valve to install since mine is going bad.

This really does not feel like fuel though. It feels like you hit the rev limiter at 2500 rpm. Mostly does it at low throttle openings though, rarely under heavy throttle. Maybe my TPS is doing something weird since it's right where the TPS switch should be clicking.

 

[dl242gt]

I've had intermittent connections in the distributor connector. It can push the pins out of position and also check the end that goes to the computer for contacts that are pushed open and making intermittent contact. I've also read here that there is a inline power connector to the chrysler box and that can corrode and make for intermittent power.

 

[HiSPL]

I think (furiously knocks on wood) I fixed it.

Last bit of digging showed a little bit of fuel on the vacuum side of the FPR, so I just ordered one to be sure. And since I had begun to suspect the TPS had something to do with the problem, I loaded up the parts cannon and bought a new TPS as well.

Lo and behold tonight I took my old TPS off and it had fuel in it! I guess the fuel was running up the vacuum hose from the FPR and somehow ending up on the throttle shaft where it oozed its way into my original Bosch TPS.

I just drove about ten miles and had no missing! F yeah!

So I'm thinking that this is solved for now. Hopefully.....

 

[HiSPL]

Not solved.

I drove probably 100 miles today to go check out a car and it was fine all the way there. I fired it up and started driving back and its misfiring again. Not as much, and not as bad, but its still doing it.

New Dizzy hall sensor. New TPS. All connectors pulled and cleaned and reconnected. Vacuum lines all good.

Might try a different coil maybe. Or chasing down the entire harness to see if there's any nicks or rubbed through spots where I can't see it.


The good thing is that I traded an old Ford for a 76 242 shell and a 75 245 parts car that is wrecked. So I got that going for me......

 

[dl242gt]

You also have Bosch breakerless ignition in the 76 which is cheaper and more reliable in my experience. I don't know if you can change a LH2.2 car to the older bosch ignition. But if you can I recommend it. I did the change on my friends 82 245. That car was a kjet B21F with chrysler ignition. After repeated hall sensor and wiring failures we ditched that shit for the old Bosch setup and it's been fine ever since. I think the reason you can't use the older bosch setup is the load signal that the fuel computer gets from the chrysler computer.

The other change you can do is upgrade to the LH2.2 EZK as used in the 740. That may help get rid of the gremlins in your chrysler ignition.

Because it won't be in there anymore.

 

[HiSPL]

I may or may not have the bosch breakerless. The 76 has no motor, but Its full of leftover parts so I have to sift through it and see. It does have that sweet sweet M45 though.

 

[dl242gt]

I always thought about using a M45 shifter in an M47. Then you'll have a secret gear not on the shift pattern.

If the 76 still has the original ignition parts then they should be the bosch breakerless stuff. It's too bad you are so far away. I have a good B21F for that car.

 

[HiSPL]

The 76 is totalled. Very crunched up. Was hit in the rear and something slid down the drivers side. Grill and headlights are still intact though. Hood and DS fender are very bent.

It comes on A.R.E. 3 piece wheels too. They are BBS copies, and pretty good ones.

 

[volvosruinedmylife]

Every time I have an issue with an lh 2.2 car it's always a loose or corroded connection.

 

[HiSPL]

Every time I have an issue with an lh 2.2 car it's always a loose or corroded connection.

Well against all advice I went ahead and removed the connector at the ICU today. It looked pristine. Really. This car is amazing. I opened up the case and inspected the pins and soldering. It all looked great. I didn't remove the silastic but there is no wiggle to the pins at all and the rest of the board looked very solid. It was well made back in the day. Good clean solder joints.

I tore the silicone boot off the end of the plug and cleaned the sockets as best I could. Then I used a pick to kind of crush them down a little so that they would grip the pins harder on the next insertion. Squoze a liberal dose of dielectric grease in there, capped it with the silicone boot and forced it back onto the ICU. I then used some healthy zip ties to make sure it stays put.

Drove about ten miles and had no issues tonight. We'll see what happens in the next few days......