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940 engine fit into 240


Mar 11, 2020
dirty coast
I'm in the middle of swapping a B230FT from a 94 940 into my 85 240 and can't get the turbo engine to drop in.

it appears that the back of the cylinder head has no more room to move rearward so the engine can drop onto the motor mounts. I put the motor mount brackets from the 240 engine onto the turbo engine (being that the 940 chassis and mounting brackets are slightly larger), but I still can't get the engine to clear and get to the mounts.

the distance from mount to motor mount:
<a href="https://ibb.co/4FLGZpT"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/QJVRFMN/IMG-0433.jpg" alt="IMG-0433" border="0"></a>

engine at firewall:
<a href="https://ibb.co/tM5wT9q"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/jvF9PSy/IMG-0435.jpg" alt="IMG-0435" border="0"></a>

excuse the poor quality, my iPhone got soaked and the camera is blurry.
so what am I missing here? I removed all the plumbing around the heater core at the back of the firewall.... do I have to remove the EGR stuff from the turbo engine?
I'm guessing you relocated the distributor to the block? It's a B230 from car A going into a B230 car B, 240 mounts/brackets. You may just need to wiggle things around, get it lower, make sure you're not smashing up the crank angle sensor if you don't have the transmission on. My '90 240 has EGR, the routing is more or less the same from F to FT.
distributor removed from turbo engine.

cruise control wiring still in the 240 car but that doesn't take up much space back there.
it did seem awful close. maybe I need to alter the angle to the chassis on the stands.

to be clear- it is the engine AND transmission together. so the b230ft and aw71 are going into the 240.
With a leveler and/or a stack of wooden blocks under the car, try swinging the tail of the transmission fully up into the tunnel. That should flatten out the angle and give you more head-to-firewall clearance. Leaving the engine mount bolts loose also gives you a bit more wiggle room.
If you remove the cast aluminum mount receiver from subframe, and assemble the mount/brackets loosely, it'll buy you some wiggle room to align and set everything.

By the looks of it, your mount stud angles are working against you, as you'd basically need the engine further back than the firewall will allow, in order to receive mount stud.

Get everything hanging off the engine loosely, then lower the loosely assembled mounts down to subframe. Those studs are straight up and down, so no funky angles to riddle you.
another question: one of the trans cooler lines broke during the process of removing the turbo engine. can I pull one of the hard lines from the NA engine and replace it?
another question: one of the trans cooler lines broke during the process of removing the turbo engine. can I pull one of the hard lines from the NA engine and replace it?

The trans cooler lines are formed differently to route around the DP/Turbo/inlet, so you can take the one matching (upper or lower at the rad) NA line & tweak it to flow around those & still align with the rad fitting, or take both NA lines & bend them as one to fit, sometimes that's easier to deal with.

You have an intercooler in there now, so the distance to the radiator is a couple inches shorter.
But, IIRC, the instructions for the factory Intercooler Boost System retrofit kit said to use the original lines and just bend them carefully to shorten up the distance.
i'll try this. I have the motor mounts tightly bolted up, so loosening makes sense.

The 240 engine doesn't sit straight up on the mounts. It is designed to lean back. That's why you can't get the 2 halves to mate in the middle. Pull the mounts clear off the frame cross member. Then, with the engine sitting almost level in the chassis reattach the mount haves first, then, lower the engine while lining up the studs/holes that attach the lower half of the mount to the cross member.
I always bolt motor mounts with brackets to engine. Get passenger side in and then you can wiggle the engine so the driver side goes in. Most of the time the trans is attached. This is the easiest way I have found.
My engine was making sweet love to my firewall putting it back into my 240, there straight up is not a lot of room between where the engine sits and the firewall, engine and transmission or only engine? Got a load leveler? I?m pretty sure you just gotta start leveling the engine out and it?ll find its way home. I still had my transmission attached so I just jacked up the transmission until it was nearly against the car and the engine dropped right into the crossmember with minimal wiggling. Like others said it?s easier dropping the mounts down into the crossmember as a unit rather than trying to piece it together.
you guys were totally right: with everything mounted, the engine went right in!

While I am here, two questions:
- how to manage the transmission mount/bracket question? The AW71 mount has a bolt sticking straight down that goes into the rubber mount, different from the old 240 mount. Do I have to splice the aw71 mount into the 240 bracket?
<a href="https://ibb.co/yWG5h4V"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/18hKszb/IMG-0460.jpg" alt="IMG-0460" border="0"></a>

- I assume the sheet metal fins have to go so I can mount the radiator and intercooler at front? I am NOT planning to mount a condesnser for AC.
<a href="https://ibb.co/BCYmmTM"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/LZsMM97/IMG-0462.jpg" alt="IMG-0462" border="0"></a>
Your intercooler setup there is kind of a riddle. It appears you're using the later 92+ style 940 intercooler. That's not a drop in for a 240, though you may find a way.

Older 740 style intercooler is a plug-n-play option for your 240
It should be possible to use the later 940 intercooler in your 240 without cutting any sheet metal. I ran that setup a few years ago along with the late 940 NA radiator without cutting the sheet metal and I think the main issue was getting the hose to fit past the battery.