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940T motor mounts

Drive up on ramps, remove distributor cap, jack under the oil pan, lift slightly to remove tension from the bolts, unbolt the brackets from the engine block and from the cross member then lift more to be able to remove mounts together with brackets.
 
PCH said:
Drive up on ramps, remove distributor cap, jack under the oil pan, lift slightly to remove tension from the bolts, unbolt the brackets from the engine block and from the cross member then lift more to be able to remove mounts together with brackets.
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Is it safe to jack up the block via the oil pan? I thought that was a bit dodgy??
 
mdubya79 said:
Is it safe to jack up the block via the oil pan? I thought that was a bit dodgy??
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It's sketchy but it works. I would also strongly recommend doing one mount at a time and leaving the other bolted as a failsafe. I also didn't need to remove my distributor to make this work but it wouldn't hurt anything to do that too. Maybe take it as an opportunity to replace it. As an addendum:

An important bit too that I had an issue with but nobody else seems to is that you need the front of the car on Jacks, NOT ramps. Otherwise jacking up the engine will just lift the entire front of the car as the tension from engine weight on the front springs is relieved. Putting it on jacks means the springs are under no tension and lifting the engine only lifts the engine/tranny. Just my 2 cents.
 
I used a block of wood with the hole cutout for the drain plug bolted to the scissor jack. Good point about jack stands vs ramps, ramps were just faster and that worked for me. I cracked the distributor cap when I did that job the first time years ago, so now I just remove them- not the whole distributor.
 
PCH said:
I used a block of wood with the hole cutout for the drain plug bolted to the scissor jack. Good point about jack stands vs ramps, ramps were just faster and that worked for me. I cracked the distributor cap when I did that job the first time years ago, so now I just remove them- not the whole distributor.
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Yeah that's my fuckup I tend to call the cap the distributor
I do wonder if the reason people have issues with the hoses/cap in the back is because you have to lift the engine up way higher if you use ramps or something.

On another note, anybody know a good source for hydraulic mounts that aren't pro parts sweden/made in china?
 
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Rock auto has a brand called Anchor. I have a buddy that use to work for them in Cleveland. Who knows if the mounts are made there but that's what I bought. Just under $18 on close out atm.
 
I think the reason I cracked mine is because I tried removing just the mounts without unbolting the brackets from the motor and cross member. That requires more lift to clear the long studs on the mounts.
 
Led said:
Rock auto has a brand called Anchor. I have a buddy that use to work for them in Cleveland. Who knows if the mounts are made there but that's what I bought. Just under $18 on close out atm.
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At a price like that I'm actually quite tempted despite my lecturing about not buying cheap parts. Thanks for the tip!
 
PCH said:
I think the reason I cracked mine is because I tried removing just the mounts without unbolting the brackets from the motor and cross member. That requires more lift to clear the long studs on the mounts.
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Oh yeah that would explain it, I was barely able to sneak mine out after I undid the bracket from the frame. Didn't have to take anything off the motor though. The way those brackets are bolted on the frame is quite odd too.
 
Led said:
Rock auto has a brand called Anchor. I have a buddy that use to work for them in Cleveland. Who knows if the mounts are made there but that's what I bought. Just under $18 on close out atm.
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Looks like you grabbed the last of them from RockAuto.

Summit Racing have them, but for $33 USD each.
www.summitracing.com

Anchor Industries 8622 Anchor Industries Engine Mounts | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Anchor Industries Engine Mounts with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Motor Mounts and Inserts at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com
 
mdubya79 said:
Is it safe to jack up the block via the oil pan? I thought that was a bit dodgy??
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Short answer, no. I have seen more than one oil pan that was bent from folks using it as a jacking point. I very carefully use the Alt/PS casting as a jacking point. One side at a time. Slip a block of wood between the pan and the cross member to keep the engine from crashing down on your fingers. There is enough room if you tilt the engine vs. trying to jack it straight up.
 
The anchor mounts from rock auto arrived today. Do not waste your money. Two boxes with the same part number. One mount is heavier than the other and has the motion limiting strap. The other mount is noticeably lighter and does not have the strap. One of the mounts looks like it was installed and then returned. I'm going to go ahead and install them but I figure I'll be doing the job again within a year. I only paid $18 a mount, you get what you pay for.
 
Led said:
The anchor mounts from rock auto arrived today. Do not waste your money. Two boxes with the same part number. One mount is heavier than the other and has the motion limiting strap. The other mount is noticeably lighter and does not have the strap. One of the mounts looks like it was installed and then returned. I'm going to go ahead and install them but I figure I'll be doing the job again within a year. I only paid $18 a mount, you get what you pay for.
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Oh dear 😕. I'm having difficulty here in the UK sourcing mid budget mounts, seems to start at £42 for cheap crappy ones
 
2manyturbos said:
Short answer, no. I have seen more than one oil pan that was bent from folks using it as a jacking point. I very carefully use the Alt/PS casting as a jacking point. One side at a time. Slip a block of wood between the pan and the cross member to keep the engine from crashing down.....
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Exactly this. I did my Cheap Thrills sedan years back. Car on ramps with all weight safely on suspension; floor jack and an appropriately cut length 2x4. Thread that wood up along side the bolting flange and you lift directly into cast iron. Make sure the wood is VERTICAL on your jack. One side at a time....... FTW.

The hard part now, is finding quality engine mounts.
 
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