adapter plates

[n xntrx volvo]

need to make 2
first is for the intake. can get 1/8" plate (steel) relatively easy here, think enough to support an intake manifold? going to use a piece of phenolic in between to allow for port blending and bolt heads. one problem, the head is threaded and so is the intake. so a few of those are going to be a pia. maybe undersize the bolts on the intake. replace with studs, bolt on from the outside into the adapter? if so will 1/8" be enough or will i need to weld the studs to it?
pic is an overlay of the two.

second is the hard one. tranny.
going to a t56 (ls1) (have)
have the bolt patterns (shaft centered) for both the volvo and the sbc (fairly close to mod to ls1 bell)
going to run john parkers alum flywheel. website says it needs a longer fork etc. what is the extra distance?
clutch is a 3 puck tilton 7.25
*edit, something better now
pedal setup is a reverse mount tilton 2 pedal 3 cyl. (for intake clearance)
will a stock ls1 slave/ throwout work wth a tilton, or do i need to pick up their setup?
*edit - need a "cupped" throwout
what is the stock imput shaft meas for a m46 etc?
need all this info to setup the correct thickness of adapter. was thinking make muiltiples of the plate in 1/8" and "plates" till the thickness is correct (almost like spacers).
*edit- gm ls1 t56, 5/16" ish backspace to full spline
volvo 9/16" to bottom of taper.
3/4" to full spline.
2 1/2" to end of spline.
= 7/16" further back (gm vs volvo, volvo further)
volvo billet flywheel 1.065 lip 2 cltch face
- .121" lip 2 crank face
= .944" face 2 face
(longer release specified)
volvo flex plate = .109" face to face
volvo stepped flywheel the distance from the flywheel crank face to the (clamped down) pressure plate fingers is 71 mm. 2.795"
flat flywheel to the (clamped down) pressure plate fingers is 61 mm 2.402"

bad idea or should i make from one piece?
is there an off the shelf input bearing that'll work (aka, hey kevin)
*edit- gm and volvo share imput shaft dia
-Aaron
ps- "polishing a turd" is officially dead)
*edit - volvo crankshaft specs
8 on 2.9865" bc
8mm x 1.25 bolts
= 2.6715 id of bolt circle
ls1
8 on 3.11 bc
11m bolts
= 2.677 id of bc
= snug but close fit of "button" clutch

 

[qwkswede]

whoa, this sounds like some kooky stuff. I can't wait to see it come together. Thats the ultimate Volvo transmission.

I have an M46 here, what do yo need measured on the input shaft? length? diameter?
-(not sure I can get to it actually its quite blocked in by 4 feet of snow.)

 

[n xntrx volvo]

gotta stay ahead of you newb 16v'rs.
fyi the ls1 is a push clutch, so might need the tilton unit
i'll need the splined length, the protrusion from the bell and tip length / dia.

 

[chree]

My 740 has a T56 (although it is an LT1 T56). I didn't put the car together so all I know is the factory Volvo master is being used with the LT1 slave. I can take photos if you need them.

Be sure you have enough rear gear to utilize the 6 gears (otherwise why take the weight penalty?). I have 3.31s and the only time 6th is useful is on the highway, and even then it lugs the engine if I'm not going very fast (can't say what speed since my speedo is off).

 

[qwkswede]

Yep, keep pushing the creative envelope. Most of us wouldn't have taken the leap without you and some others paving the way.

gotta stay ahead of you newb 16v'rs.
fyi the ls1 is a push clutch, so might need the tilton unit
i'll need the splined length, the protrusion from the bell and tip length / dia.

 

[ElPiloto]

Have you considered using a hydraulic throw out bearing? It slides over the input shaft collar on the tranny.

It sounds like a fantastic project and worth the work.

Are the bolt patterns for the sbc and Volvo digitized? If they are, would you share them with me? I have another project in the works and it would help a lot if I had the bolt patterns. If you can do it, you can send them as an attachement to: elpiloto@comcast.net If you have them as drawings only, I would pay all copy and shipping expenses.

Many thanks, --EP

 

[adrianpike]

Do you need those upper cross-braces between 1&2 and 3&4? I'd remove those if possible, stud the outer adapter plate to the... non-volvo intake mani, and drill out the intake mani to the stud size.
Then you can easily use the stock Volvo intake bolts (looks like some minor hogging will need to be done on the bottom of 1 & 4), bolt the adapter up, then slap the intake mani on the studs and nut it up.

How are you planning on attatching the two plates & the phenolic?

 

[n xntrx volvo]

Do you need those upper cross-braces between 1&2 and 3&4? I'd remove those if possible, stud the outer adapter plate to the... non-volvo intake mani, and drill out the intake mani to the stud size.

i dont want to modify the intake at all. its worth a healthy chunk of $.

How are you planning on attatching the two plates & the phenolic?

head>plate>phenolic>intake

Have you considered using a hydraulic throw out bearing? It slides over the input shaft collar on the tranny.

the stock ls1 is that way.

Are the bolt patterns for the sbc and Volvo digitized? If they are, would you share them with me?

not yet. they'll be openly shared once done. along with the flanges i have done up.

Be sure you have enough rear gear to utilize the 6 gears (otherwise why take the weight penalty?). I have 3.31s and the only time 6th is useful is on the highway, and even then it

they'll be swapped. i do cruise at 80+ though, but will swap once the rear end breaks.

Yep, keep pushing the creative envelope. Most of us wouldn't have taken the leap without you and some others paving the way.

thanks, you havent seen the new stuff for the short block