240 Auto lock on 245 wire problem fix

[wgusler]

My next adventure was to find out why the auto lock worked intermittently or not at all. A search here pointed out the wire problem so off with the door panel. The harness at the lower connection had some flakey wire insulation, but nothing really bad. But moving up to the actuator YIKES!


Then the lock sensor............



I figured it was all trashed and then looked for a replacement, 160.00 on ebay used. Umm, nope. I took it all to the bench and made a new harness to connect to the old crusty ends.

I used some T100 to clean the corrosion and gunk off the wires and soldered new wire to the old ends and color coded shrink on the actuator and lock sensor and butted it up as close as possible to the units.




Attached to the new harness and then the OEM plug connector.



I was actually shocked that it worked perfectly.

 

[Tom in SoCal]

Good show -- and great pics!

 

[Mr. V]

I'm surprised someone doesn't sell a non-OEM replacement, given the fact that it's a common problem and a lot of old 240's are still out there.

For example, rockauto.com sells a door lock acuator, but not the part in question.

 

[Tom in SoCal]

I used some T100 to clean the corrosion and gunk off the wires

Just curious... what is T100? Just ordinary contact cleaner, or something different?

A repair like this is in my future...

-Tom in SoCal

 

[cleanflametrap]

Just curious... what is T100? Just ordinary contact cleaner, or something different?

A repair like this is in my future...

-Tom in SoCal

I think he means Caig Deoxit D100. This stuff is worth the $20 in my opinion.

 

[wgusler]

I think he means Caig Deoxit D100. This stuff is worth the $20 in my opinion.

Correct, it is the bomb when working on old wiring. Here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBVN2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Tom in SoCal]

I think he means Caig Deoxit D100. This stuff is worth the $20 in my opinion.

Correct, it is the bomb when working on old wiring. Here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBVN2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bingo. Got it.

Thanks!

-T

 

[Volvo265]

I took my switches apart and soldered new wires to the contacts inside them. It wasn't any fun tho, very tedious and time consuming. I even took apart the connectors and dug the old wiring out of the terminals and replaced it too.

 

[cleanflametrap]

I took my switches apart and soldered new wires to the contacts inside them. It wasn't any fun tho, very tedious and time consuming. I even took apart the connectors and dug the old wiring out of the terminals and replaced it too.

Good work. It is indeed fun and learning if those two mean the same to you, but if you were just looking for return of function again, you might have considered abandoning the key and lock knob switches for an $11 keyless entry mod. http://cleanflametrap.com/keyless3.html

 

[242crj]

how do you get the door lock out of the door. think there is a plastic collar and am afraid to break it if I try to take it off....black car sits outside all the time summer works great for curing epoxy gets up over 160 degrees inside. so think the plastic in the door collar will break?? any tips

 

[2 old for this]

As you can see the switch wraps around the lock cylinder. There is a tab or a tail that holds it together. Also when reinstalling make sure the tab on the lock cylinder is in the slot on the switch.

 

[bobxyz]

Here's some pictures (mine and others). IIRC, you squeeze the thumb tab closed (towards the side wire clip/notch), which frees up the plastic hook, and you then gently push the plastic hook back to clear the tab.

From volvogeek https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=224742

From the web:

My pics: